Aftermarket 4wd Actuator vs OEM

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Has anyone installed an aftermarket (non OEM) 4wd actuator?

It's about a $1000 price difference and I'm just wondering if I should even consider it.


Aftermarket

vs:

OEM
 
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Kind of weird that the version for V6 engines (AISIN SAT-019) is ~$70 more. Still tempting as I've not been able to get into 4LO for a long while.

UPDATE: A number of Japan-based eBay sellers appear to have the OEM version for less than $400.
 
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It wouldn't be surprising if the OEM actuator is made by Aisin as Toyota owns them. I would go with whatever I found cheaper of either OEM or Aisin only.
 
I wonder why these parts fail when they only get used 10-20 times during the life of the truck. Its not like the get worn out. Dont they test electrical motors for 1 million cycles before release?
 
I wonder why these parts fail when they only get used 10-20 times during the life of the truck. Its not like the get worn out. Dont they test electrical motors for 1 million cycles before release?

Good question. Maybe underuse? I suspect these are tested and should last as long as other components. I've never taken one apart to see where they fail.

I'm a stickler for OEM parts, but in this case, I'd probably go with the Aisin branded unit. As others have said, that's probably the OEM piece anyways.
 
Hey there!

That's a really good point you've made. It does seem like underuse could be a factor in why these components don't last as long as we'd expect. I agree that these parts are likely tested thoroughly, but there's always that element of unpredictability, isn't there? Just like when you buy a pair of white boots - they look great and seem durable, but you never really know how long they'll last until you put them to the test in different conditions.

On the topic of OEM parts, I'm with you. There's a certain reassurance in sticking with what's tried and true. But like you mentioned, the Aisin branded unit seems to be the OEM part in disguise, right? It's kind of like finding a branded item at a discount store – same quality, just without the label. In this case, going for Aisin sounds like a smart move, especially if it’s essentially the same part with a different name.

Keep us posted on how it turns out! It's always great to get real-world feedback on these things.
 
I wouldn't be opposed to grabbing an AISIN or even an OEM actuator, but I'm not sure how exactly to do the repair and it doesn't seem to be plug n' play. I've looked at some YouTube vids and most of them end up dropping the transfer case, which is not an easy task for my skill level.
 
Has anyone installed an aftermarket (non OEM) 4wd actuator?

It's about a $1000 price difference and I'm just wondering if I should even consider it.


Aftermarket

vs:

OEM

Aisin and Denso are brands you can buy with your eyes closed, they're basically the same part except it comes in a Toyota Box.

Replacing the actuator is gonna be a PITA, many have tried replacing the actuator without dropping the transfer case and others have disassembled the transfer case.

There is always an issue synchronizing the position of the new actuator with the old, some end up swapping the whole transfer for and fj transfer case.

The main reason these fail is they get gummed up because of lack of use supposedly, Id say I use 4wd at least 4 times a month and I still get a stubborn transfer case actuator sometimes after I swapped it out a few years back.

Patience is key, even after replacing it I had to remove the actuator a few times to play with the positions of the rods, for some reason the 4wd ecu couldn't reset the actuator to its normal position on its own.
 
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Hey there!

That's a really good point you've made. It does seem like underuse could be a factor in why these components don't last as long as we'd expect. I agree that these parts are likely tested thoroughly, but there's always that element of unpredictability, isn't there? Just like when you buy a pair of white boots - they look great and seem durable, but you never really know how long they'll last until you put them to the test in different conditions.

On the topic of OEM parts, I'm with you. There's a certain reassurance in sticking with what's tried and true. But like you mentioned, the Aisin branded unit seems to be the OEM part in disguise, right? It's kind of like finding a branded item at a discount store – same quality, just without the label. In this case, going for Aisin sounds like a smart move, especially if it’s essentially the same part with a different name.

Keep us posted on how it turns out! It's always great to get real-world feedback on these things.


Mine stopped working because water had gotten in and corroded the contact points. Cleaned it up, regreased it, and its been working great ever since...

I would imagine corrosion/getting gummed up is the main cause of failure...
 
[MENTION=759629]SocalRunner15[/MENTION] - Did you just remove your existing actuator, clean it out, relube, and reinstall it? Or was it more complicated than that?
 
[MENTION=759629]SocalRunner15[/MENTION] - Did you just remove your existing actuator, clean it out, relube, and reinstall it? Or was it more complicated than that?

Yep...just removed it from the car...cleaned it out and reinstalled it. Make sure you mark the timing so its easier to reinstall.

Otherwise...super simple process (at least on my 2000 V6 Limited)
 
The V6 Actuators are a lot easier, you only have to worry about one rod. With the V8 Actuators there are two rods, one for the Center lock and 4lo. how do i know, well watched a bunch of youtube vids showing how easy it is to fix the leak. Yeah no, Do not take out the actuator, I broke a Teeth in the actuator. There is a Timing on the actuators, if you dont get them correct, it wont work. Best way is just to remove the Transfer case, disassemble and replace.
for V8 Aisin part SAT003
 
The V6 Actuators are a lot easier, you only have to worry about one rod. With the V8 Actuators there are two rods, one for the Center lock and 4lo. how do i know, well watched a bunch of youtube vids showing how easy it is to fix the leak. Yeah no, Do not take out the actuator, I broke a Teeth in the actuator. There is a Timing on the actuators, if you dont get them correct, it wont work. Best way is just to remove the Transfer case, disassemble and replace.
for V8 Aisin part SAT003

That makes sense. I've been down that same YT rabbit hole of late and was having a tough time figuring out why some actuators appear to have a single rod and others have two. I've got a V6, so I feel a bit less trepidation about messing with it now. Just have to steal the rig back from my snowboarding son for a day or two.
 
The V6 Actuators are a lot easier, you only have to worry about one rod. With the V8 Actuators there are two rods, one for the Center lock and 4lo. how do i know, well watched a bunch of youtube vids showing how easy it is to fix the leak. Yeah no, Do not take out the actuator, I broke a Teeth in the actuator. There is a Timing on the actuators, if you dont get them correct, it wont work. Best way is just to remove the Transfer case, disassemble and replace.
for V8 Aisin part SAT003

You've got it backwards. The V6 actuator has 2 rods. The replacement for the V6 is more complicated due to having to drop and split the transfer case in order to remove the actuator. The V6 actuator rods have locking pins within the transfer case that make it impossible to remove without splitting the TC. The V8 actuator is removable without dropping the TC but you need to be careful not to damage the actuator seals when doing it.

I've done this repair twice since the first Dorman actuator I purchased was faulty. The 2nd one worked and has been fine for about 6 months. I have a V6 btw. If I could go back in time, I would buy the AISIN actuator instead. You live and you learn.
 
You've got it backwards. The V6 actuator has 2 rods. The replacement for the V6 is more complicated due to having to drop and split the transfer case in order to remove the actuator. The V6 actuator rods have locking pins within the transfer case that make it impossible to remove without splitting the TC. The V8 actuator is removable without dropping the TC but you need to be careful not to damage the actuator seals when doing it.

I've done this repair twice since the first Dorman actuator I purchased was faulty. The 2nd one worked and has been fine for about 6 months. I have a V6 btw. If I could go back in time, I would buy the AISIN actuator instead. You live and you learn.


So What that would mean is that you have a Center diff lock. with Center diff lock, you will have 2 rod actuator.

What you are refering to as being easy, is people without a center diff lock.
 
Just replaced front acutuator (bench tested working), still no 4wd

I just got an 04 V6 sport that wont go into 4wd. No matter where I put the selector, or push the diff lock button, nothing happens. ( neutral for 4lo ) On the dash, the center diff lock light is always on, the green 4wd light blinks slowly, the VSC TRAC and VSC OFF lights are solid on. I have let it sit overnight with the battery disconnected then preformed the zero point reset. I replaced the front actuator with a confirmed working one, and confirmed that the ring moves freely. When 4Hi is selected I am not getting any power to the front actuator. The center actuator moves when power is applied to both sets of pins. but I have not confirmed that power is making it to this actuator from the vehicle. I took apart and cleaned the contacts of the selector switch, and it is in working order. I am at a loss. Do i throw in a new control unit? or start checking wire continuity? If anyone has experienced this issue before, any help would be much appreciate, thanks!!!



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