Alignment concerns

Skidmarcx

New member
Problem I'm having... On anything other than level ground the front end has excessive positive camber. I don't understand it's dead nuts straight in my garage and on the alignment rack, but parked anywhere else I get more than a few degrees of positive camber. Normally I wouldn't care, but it affects my turning and tire clearance in a tight radius.

What I've replaced... I bought the truck with 150k on the clock, so I replaced the entire front end (control arms, ball joints, tie rod ends, rack bushings, struts/springs) and rear springs/shocks. The front UCAs are Light Racing.

It aligns flawlessly on the rack and drives straight, but I'm wondering with the Light Racing control arms if there is a certain combo between the lower cam bolts and upper adjustments to get it right?

Thanks
 
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Update - finally found the problem the lower control arm bushings on the passenger side are destroyed... Unreal how I've had it aligned twice at two different shops since I've noticed the problem progressing and the technicians didn't figure it out. It's not exactly obvious visually that they're bad until you apply some force... It got so bad that when I hit a bump the steering wheel moved 15 degrees and tires were screeching. Anyways for anyone having a midget underneath screwing with your alignment double check those bushings... And don't buy Duracrap control arms I just put these in 6 months ago... At least they're under warranty but if this happens again I'm buying REAL bushings
 
Were your bushings seized to the control arm? If so, did you find a way to best remove the bushings?

That's the problem I had...could not torque those alignment bolts past a certain amount as the seized bushing was restricting movement.
 
dont even waste your time with it, your just gonna be doing it again... save yourself the hassle and just buy some poly bushings, Whiteline Suspension Parts for the Toyota 4Runner 4WD 1997 part number w53377. they are a breeze to instal and well worth the $62. also the old bushings are not that bad to remove, just burn them out with a torch... get the rubber to burn and let them burn out, then take a air saw if you have access to one or if you have a cutting torch scarf out the old bushing sleeve and press the new bushings in, you can even do this with a hammer and or a vice, dont need a press.

i just did this sunday.
 
Yea I know they're garbage, but money is tight right now I'm doing the swap tomorrow just so I can drive to work and back without destroying my tires... I plan on buying a used set of lowers and getting real bushings to make it an easy swap... Fortunately those are the only Durapoop parts in my suspension. Thanks for the link

Good to know they're sensitive to torque thanks I'll go easier on em
 

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