Alternator died?

[Silver Supra]

I was driving home and realized that my radio started to turn itself off then back on again. Then my tach went to zero and the ABS and battery warning light came on. the truck kept running and I made it home - barely.

The battery is only a couple of years old so I'm thinking my 279k mile alternator gave up the ghost.

Any way to check it before I remove it? What is everyone using to replace it - is there an upgrade? I think the OEM one is discontinued.

Thanks!!

 

[phattyduck]

Charge the battery, and check the voltage while the truck is running. It should be >13.5 with some load on it (turn on the headlights or something) and >14V on a cold start.

A Denso reman (reman'd by Denso, not some other brand using a Denso core) is your safest plug-n-play bet. There are upgraded options that are a bit more work.

-Charlie

 

[Twisted Sid]

Start it and put a multimeter on the main stud and a ground. It should be putting out 14(+/-) volts.
Charge your battery first back up to 12v though.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

First off, do you own a volt meter and know how to use it.

If your battery will start the engine without charging it your battery post voltage should be above 13.5vdc.

Do you have a hammer? If you do give the Alt a good shot and start the engine. If the battery light goes out it’s your brushes. They are cheep and easy to replace.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Sparky 97Runner]

This is what my brushes looked like compared to new brushes at roughly the same mileage as yours. I would seriously consider new brushes or Denso reman even if your alternator tests good.

 

[mtbtim]

This is what my brushes looked like compared to new brushes at roughly the same mileage as yours. I would seriously consider new brushes or Denso reman even if your alternator tests good.

On this subject, I've got a video showing how to do it.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/71_kBhg6_-A?si=pLXmCeqaeCR-xxPp" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[Romeo1]

Charge the battery, and check the voltage while the truck is running. It should be >13.5 with some load on it (turn on the headlights or something) and >14V on a cold start.

A Denso reman (reman'd by Denso, not some other brand using a Denso core) is your safest plug-n-play bet. There are upgraded options that are a bit more work.

-Charlie

All of this.

For voltage testing apply max draw with lights, blowers radio your name it while running. Give it a little rpm. 1200 or higher If your alternator can't at least push 13.5 V it's time for a fix.

Load testing is the only real answer for the battery. You can get those specific gravity testers that are pretty handy and cheap though and test individual cells.

I'm not sure if these run a fusible link or not, but make sure there's continuity from the alternator output to the battery. Make sure the grounds are good too.

If you want to take a crack at fixing yourself, definitely use Tim's video. I have a local alternator shop that I use for everything car, tractor and truck. I've had good success with a NAPA premium stuff too. Never have put one on a Toyota though.

That is a real bummer if OEM is gone.

 

[JoeT4R]

Definitely agree with [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] and [MENTION=643801]Romeo1[/MENTION] on this. If you decide you just want to throw an alternator at it, the Denso reman p/n is 210-0434. I personally have this alternator in my rig as we speak and it's done great over the past two and a half years. Absolute no issues out of it and it performs just as expected (Knock on wood!)

 

[Silver Supra]

Thanks all for the feedback. Can anyone confirm the 80 amp (210-0434) is a direct fit for my '98 since it's spec'd for a 99-01.

 

[Silver Supra]

Charge the battery, and check the voltage while the truck is running. It should be >13.5 with some load on it (turn on the headlights or something) and >14V on a cold start.

A Denso reman (reman'd by Denso, not some other brand using a Denso core) is your safest plug-n-play bet. There are upgraded options that are a bit more work.

-Charlie

I did this and I was seeing 11.9V... then 11.8V.... then 11.7V and it continued to drop. This was with NO accessories on whatsoever. I even turned the radio off!

 

[JoeT4R]

Thanks all for the feedback. Can anyone confirm the 80 amp (210-0434) is a direct fit for my '98 since it's spec'd for a 99-01.

I misspoke and checked my information based on your year rig. There’s two available for yours (assuming it’s a 5VZ) and those p/n’s are 210-0180 (70 amp alt) and 210-0447 (60 amp alt)

I apologize for the above error. Although I’m curious to know if you could still use the 0434 without issue. Maybe someone else here might know.

Also for future reference, the website I use for checking Denso parts is called “denso find my part”


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[3bears]

im not so sure about the amps listed above, I know my 2000 uses a 80 amp denso, and the 2001 I had also took a 80 amp

and yes it is easy to just do brushes
but if you want to just swap out real fast , get a Denso reman...from Rock Auto or someplace....but you want a Denso, rebuilt by Denso

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I did this and I was seeing 11.9V... then 11.8V.... then 11.7V and it continued to drop. This was with NO accessories on whatsoever. I even turned the radio off!

Smack the Alt with a hammer. It may get you by until you get an Alt or replace the brushed.

It works, trust me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Silver Supra]

I misspoke and checked my information based on your year rig. There’s two available for yours (assuming it’s a 5VZ) and those p/n’s are 210-0180 (70 amp alt) and 210-0447 (60 amp alt)

I apologize for the above error. Although I’m curious to know if you could still use the 0434 without issue. Maybe someone else here might know.

Also for future reference, the website I use for checking Denso parts is called “denso find my part”


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My buddy at the dealership is getting the 70 and 80 amp versions to compare side by side. I should know in a day or two if they are at least physically the same, connections, etc.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

My buddy at the dealership is getting the 70 and 80 amp versions to compare side by side. I should know in a day or two if they are at least physically the same, connections, etc.

They are the same. Interchangeable.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[phattyduck]

They are the same. Interchangeable.

Agreed. They should all be the 'oval' plug type. Get the 80A version. If you are tight on $$$, you can likely just do brushes.

-Charlie

 

[Silver Supra]

Thanks guys - I will be going with the 80A version.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Thanks guys - I will be going with the 80A version.

I hate to say I tested both the 70 amp and 80 amp Alts and both will only push 40 to 41 amps in drive idling with the brake on at a stop at 600rpm with the automatic.

It’s easy Changing the brushes. But up to you.

Most reman companies only replace what was bad/failed. Is Denso the same……probably…….pay the extra 40 dollars for a lifetime Warranty on a high milage rig. They figure it will be in the junkyard before it fails again.

As an example. they receive a Alt with worn brushes……the correct thing to do is Chuck it in the lathe and turn down the commentator where the brushes ride. They don’t. Put cheep China soft brushes in and 1 year later you get the battery light again. Pull brushes and they are nubs. Like they had 200k miles on them and the Alt only had 20k miles on it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[pluton]

Thanks guys - I will be going with the 80A version.

I ordered the 80A version from a 2000 4Runner and installed it into my '97 no problem. Why suffer with 70A when you can have 80A?

 

[JoeT4R]

My buddy at the dealership is getting the 70 and 80 amp versions to compare side by side. I should know in a day or two if they are at least physically the same, connections, etc.

Very well. I will add that when you knock out this replacement, I would definitely recommend hanging onto your oem alt and keep it for a future project to have as a spare. I’d get a brush replacement kit from Toyota, I’m sure you can find all of the needed p/n’s here on this website for components needed replacing.

I only say this because it’s always a good idea to have a spare on hand and ready to go if at all possible. Plus it’s OEM. So that’s a huge benefit over an aftermarket piece of junk.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk