Jivewalker
Member
Has anyone attempted to remove/clean the oil pickup screen from the small sump? Searched with mixed results. I would like to inspect and clean if needed and am looking for photos and advice. TIA
Anybody Clean Oil Pickup Screen ? - 2012 TE
- Thread starter Jivewalker
- Start date
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damthemainstream
New member
What makes you think it needs to be cleaned?
Jivewalker
Member
Found some sludge on my cam sensors after it threw a P0012. Figured I'd look there first.
Jivewalker
Member
damthemainstream
New member
Well that's a bummer. Are you the original owner?
Jivewalker
Member
Yep. Don't really think its a huge issue, P0012 cleared, Removed oil filler tube from valve cover and used a mirror to look in, just some varnish and a small amount of sludge in a dead corner that i could see. Could see some cam lobes through the cam sensor holes and that looked OK. Really just want to know what's in the pan, if anything, and for peace of mind know that the screen is clean. I may then open the valve covers to make sure oil tubes are clear.
Trying to envision under the front... can you get the oil pan off without dropping the front diff?
Maybe get a borescope and send it up the plug hole?
Important questions need asked though:
-How many miles are on your 4R?
-How often do you change the oil?
-What oil and filter are you using?
Asking because a good synthetic oil shouldn't degrade to sludge, especially not within the 10k (or 1 year) intervals.
Maybe get a borescope and send it up the plug hole?
Important questions need asked though:
-How many miles are on your 4R?
-How often do you change the oil?
-What oil and filter are you using?
Asking because a good synthetic oil shouldn't degrade to sludge, especially not within the 10k (or 1 year) intervals.
no sludge with synthetic engine oil .. water and oil will not mix and no goop.
conventional oils do create this damage , and also turns to acid .
change conv / dino oil when engine is hot and allow long drain time ..
MMO works to remove sludge most times owners go too long on dino oil changes then the MMO is required to remove the goop..
conventional oils do create this damage , and also turns to acid .
change conv / dino oil when engine is hot and allow long drain time ..
MMO works to remove sludge most times owners go too long on dino oil changes then the MMO is required to remove the goop..
Jivewalker
Member
Dealer oil changes. I had a few long intervals, maybe 15k, enough that there is some sludge. I know this because I found it on the driver side back cam position sensor. 140k on mixed driving mostly with very few short trips. Always get to temp.
Back to my original post, before I consider MMO or Seafoam, I'd like to inspect the strainer and small bottom oil pan. From what I see in the top end from the limited view from the cam sensor holes and oil fill tube mounting hole, it really just looks like varnish mostly with some visible black goo in the dead corners. I plan on pulling the OCV's as well to inspect. If the pan and strainer is clean, I may do a treatment in combination with a couple short interval oil / filter changes and change the PCV. If the pan has any sludge and/or the strainer screen has any sludge, I will skip the mmo/seafaom and stick with short interval changes (1000-2000 mi), which I will do myself from now on with Mobil1.
Would like to see some photos or here from anyone that has inspected the strainer before I dive in on the Oil change, hopefully this Sunday. Haven't looked yet, but from the oil change pics I've seen the lower pan bolts are accessible without too much work. Upper pan is a different story.
so dealership oil changes and a few 15K runs .. that would explain it .
just all here know they will not allow ALL the oil to drain out ...TIME is $$$.
question I have is what oil do these dealerships use ?
never had dealership do any oil changes on my T4R ..also any of my other vehicles GM ,,,,.free was not to have me do this type behavior .
IMO seafoam is solvent so not in my engine oil . harsh chemical ..
MMO good product its a detergent and lubricant safe when used with the proper amount .. I did use this in the old days with conventional oils... 1 OZ / qt of engine oil .. slowly cleans up the sludge as conventional oils do create this goop...
good luck with it .. when you change the oil make sure its hot and allow all that oil to drain out.. may not have to take it apart..
just all here know they will not allow ALL the oil to drain out ...TIME is $$$.
question I have is what oil do these dealerships use ?
never had dealership do any oil changes on my T4R ..also any of my other vehicles GM ,,,,.free was not to have me do this type behavior .
IMO seafoam is solvent so not in my engine oil . harsh chemical ..
MMO good product its a detergent and lubricant safe when used with the proper amount .. I did use this in the old days with conventional oils... 1 OZ / qt of engine oil .. slowly cleans up the sludge as conventional oils do create this goop...
good luck with it .. when you change the oil make sure its hot and allow all that oil to drain out.. may not have to take it apart..
Jivewalker
Member
Thanks for the input. Ill post my findings assuming i can do the oil change this weekend. Might see if one of the auto parts store has a loaner scope to use.
The MMO, Seafoam, Auto-Rx, Zmax,etc. debates are a dime a dozen and I have read most of them across a bunch of forums. I'll look a little harder at MMO, but not using anything unless I really think it needs it.
Runner runs smooth as hell at idle and all speeds, no noise, etc. The code has stayed gone with none pending since i changed the oil 1500mi ago and cleaned the cam position sensors. I may go ahead and pull the valve covers this weekend since its really a simple job.
The MMO, Seafoam, Auto-Rx, Zmax,etc. debates are a dime a dozen and I have read most of them across a bunch of forums. I'll look a little harder at MMO, but not using anything unless I really think it needs it.
Runner runs smooth as hell at idle and all speeds, no noise, etc. The code has stayed gone with none pending since i changed the oil 1500mi ago and cleaned the cam position sensors. I may go ahead and pull the valve covers this weekend since its really a simple job.
when if you pull valve covers and there is some sludge then the dealership used non synthetic oil.. more profit ..
using seafoam when you doing the oil change engine idling is safe..
driving the vehicle with seafoam IMO engine damage..
I have used solvent products like seafoam to clean up worn sludge up engines for family members used abused vehicles.. does work good but you have to add new oil to purge out the solvent cleaner .. so I did 3 oil changes and it did work cleaned out most all the sludge and goop.. idled the engine for 30 min each time oil stayed clean.
added 1 qt of the solvent cleaner with the old oil in engine ..removed oil filter and drained it out put back in ..then did the cleaning..
using seafoam when you doing the oil change engine idling is safe..
driving the vehicle with seafoam IMO engine damage..
I have used solvent products like seafoam to clean up worn sludge up engines for family members used abused vehicles.. does work good but you have to add new oil to purge out the solvent cleaner .. so I did 3 oil changes and it did work cleaned out most all the sludge and goop.. idled the engine for 30 min each time oil stayed clean.
added 1 qt of the solvent cleaner with the old oil in engine ..removed oil filter and drained it out put back in ..then did the cleaning..
