Anyone run a Singer Alternator?

S

slothy49

New member
Is anyone running an alternator from singer?

I've been debating the cs144 swap, but throughout multiple threads I hear of people going through multiple cs144s to get one that doesn't fail on them. Just doesn't leave me with a sense of confidence.

I've seen Singer's alternators can put out 150A at idle. Is anyone running one and has anyone seen actual output numbers at idle?
 
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unless your running winches and tons of lights and big thumping music, why do you need 150 at idle, and what does it crank out at say 2000 rpm. seems like you will be doing a big three at least to handle that. And depending on the year you are, , for example, the 99+ were only set up with a system to handle 125 max and had a 125 fuse. Someone told me earlier ones were lowere..dont know if that part is ture

i did the cs144 and had no issues, I think some has to depend on if your throwing in a used one or the cheapest reman or chinese new.
But that only lasted me a year, cause I totaled the car, but had no issues.
Im not running a winch now, and only LED light bars etc ( we call them moose lights here) and a stock alternator does ok, but I do have everything on hand to do the denso 105 amp upgrade and the big 3. The nice thing about the denso 105 amp, dont have to do the big 3, runs all stock wires if wanted, plug and play, uses stock belts...and its Denso
 
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You can also do the smaller pulley mod that [MENTION=99144]19963.4lsr5[/MENTION] did and has great feedback on. Or the diode if you want more amps at idle. :-)
 
3bears said:
unless your running winches and tons of lights and big thumping music, why do you need 150 at idle, and what does it crank out at say 2000 rpm. seems like you will be doing a big three at least to handle that. And depending on the year you are, , for example, the 99+ were only set up with a system to handle 125 max and had a 125 fuse. Someone told me earlier ones were lowere..dont know if that part is ture

i did the cs144 and had no issues, I think some has to depend on if your throwing in a used one or the cheapest reman or chinese new.
But that only lasted me a year, cause I totaled the car, but had no issues.
Im not running a winch now, and only LED light bars etc ( we call them moose lights here) and a stock alternator does ok, but I do have everything on hand to do the denso 105 amp upgrade and the big 3. The nice thing about the denso 105 amp, dont have to do the big 3, runs all stock wires if wanted, plug and play, uses stock belts...and its Denso
Click to expand...

I'm running a warn evo 10, led lighting, and will also be charging an aux battery off alternator. Charging the aux would be pulling 35A alone.

What is the 105A alt? Not sure I've heard of it, usually all I see is cs144 upgrades.
 
The higher amp alts were the later model 1999 to 2002. The 1996 to 1998 were 90 amp alts believe.. As the electrical wiring diagrams go from 100 amp (1996 to 1998) to 120amp (1999 to 2002). So mostly the later alts probably maxed out at 105 or 110 amp so not to get too close to the circuit max amperage.
 
brillo_76 said:
The higher amp alts were the later model 1999 to 2002. The 1996 to 1998 were 90 amp alts believe.. As the electrical wiring diagrams go from 100 amp (1996 to 1998) to 120amp (1999 to 2002). So mostly the later alts probably maxed out at 105 or 110 amp so not to get too close to the circuit max amperage.
Click to expand...
Stock alternators were either 70A or 80A, depending on options and year. The 105A alternator is a near-direct fit from a Suzuki Grand Vitara. The large ALT fuse (100A or 120A, depending on year) is there to protect the WIRING, not the alternator, so it is oversized from what you might otherwise expect.

There are a few ways of doing a high-idle, if that's what you want for winching or other purposes - both mechanically or electrically. You do have to have a way of turning that off most of the time, or the ECU can/will throw check-engine lights for various things.

-Charlie
 
phattyduck said:
Stock alternators were either 70A or 80A, depending on options and year. The 105A alternator is a near-direct fit from a Suzuki Grand Vitara. The large ALT fuse (100A or 120A, depending on year) is there to protect the WIRING, not the alternator, so it is oversized from what you might otherwise expect.

There are a few ways of doing a high-idle, if that's what you want for winching or other purposes - both mechanically or electrically. You do have to have a way of turning that off most of the time, or the ECU can/will throw check-engine lights for various things.

-Charlie
Click to expand...

Ah.. So the 105 amp is off Suzuki.. Interesting.
 
brillo_76 said:
The higher amp alts were the later model 1999 to 2002. The 1996 to 1998 were 90 amp alts believe.. As the electrical wiring diagrams go from 100 amp (1996 to 1998) to 120amp (1999 to 2002). So mostly the later alts probably maxed out at 105 or 110 amp so not to get too close to the circuit max amperage.
Click to expand...

When adding the big 3 wiring upgrade, a second output wire is added to the system so the power is split between two. Obviously, the second wire has to be fused as well but that way if you happen to have the stereo, lights, winch and everything else going it will not blow. If it blows, the car doesn't run so must be protected against. That's how mine is setup.

The CS-144 with the adapter and a couple of washers is 100% bolt in. Super easy once you figure out how to wiggle it in there haha! It's also the most cost effective and puts out solid amps at idle, much more than the stock alternator. I did it to install an electric fan and it handled it great. Stick with the AC DELCO OEM parts and you will avoid most of the headache with alternators that do not work. The same happens with ours, people buy some cheap parts store alt and it dies 6 months later. Same thing applies to the CS-144.
 
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gamefreakgc said:
When adding the big 3 wiring upgrade, a second output wire is added to the system so the power is split between two. Obviously, the second wire has to be fused as well but that way if you happen to have the stereo, lights, winch and everything else going it will not blow. If it blows, the car doesn't run so must be protected against. That's how mine is setup.

The CS-144 with the adapter and a couple of washers is 100% bolt in. Super easy once you figure out how to wiggle it in there haha! It's also the most cost effective and puts out solid amps at idle, much more than the stock alternator. I did it to install an electric fan and it handled it great. Stick with the AC DELCO OEM parts and you will avoid most of the headache with alternators that do not work. The same happens with ours, people buy some cheap parts store alt and it dies 6 months later. Same thing applies to the CS-144.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback.. :-) At least the OP has some options and thoughts now.
 
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