ATF Drain/Fill - Drop the pan or leave it be?

[Bumbo]

2004 SR5 V6 4x4
200,000 Miles

I just did my a drain and fill last night... about 4 quarts.

I noticed the trans pan isn't blocked by the exhaust like in the V8 which would make removal a lot easier...

I was thinking of dropping the pan to clean it and change the transmission oil filter but not sure if its really worth it?

Does that filter actually filter fine particles or is it more of a coarse mesh; manual indicates its a "strainer"?

My plan was to drain and fill at least another 2 times because the oil was pretty dark... but now that I have the filter and pan on the brain I am not sure what I should do.

I was really trying to keep this simple but we all know how that works sometimes.

Any tips, concerns, or words of advise? Buy OEM only or are there any good aftermarket filter and gaskets I should look at?

Thanks

Edit: The lighter color fluid is brand new from the bottle... I poured a sample into the cup for comparison.

 

[snowboardwcu]

hey Bumbo, i'll share my experience.

I have 2005 V8, exhaust was not blocking my pan either. despite the recommendations of many on here, i purchased the filter with intent to replace it. no way that existing filter is still ok after 150k miles. i also wanted to check the pan magnets for debris as a sanity check for longevity of the trans.

1. there is absolutely no reason to change the filter. its a mesh filter, there wasn't even a spec in mine. i changed it anyway because i'm stubborn. waste of money.
2. it was great to see there was little to nothing stuck to the pan magnets. got a nice peace of mind with that. i cleaned the pan and magnets and back on it went.
3. dropping the pan was easy; putting it back on sucked. i snapped the heads off three bolts (using a torque wrench set properly) BEFORE they were even screwed in completely. there must have been sand or schmutz in the threads. probably should have used new bolts. i dont know. luckily, nothing leaked and still hasn't.

you really need to consider if you want to check out the magnets. otherwise, no reason to bother dropping the pan.

edit: i did a full 12 quart (i think i did 14 actually) through the cooler lines. it was super easy. i do recommend doing a few more quarts than you already have. 12 is considered to be very close to changing out >90% of the fluid IIRC. I used Toyota's WS ATF. more expensive but marginal in the long run.

 

[07V8]

Don't touch it. You'd know if you have an issue that warrants dropping it.

The filter is nothing more than a screen.

 

[Morphyne]

I've done two pans drops (one each of two sep t4rs) and it was nice to know what was in there but I would say there is nothing of note in there. I would not do it again. And I would say it's not worth the effort and risk of potentially snapping those little pan bolts. That being said. Nothing wrong with it either.

 

[AuSeeker]

If anyone drops the pan, there should be no reason to use new bolts, if it were the head bolts then yes new bolts are the norm, but not common pan bolts, etc., make sure you clean the threads of the bolts with a fine wire brush and a little gasoline or other solvent if the solvent is needed to dissolve any crud on the threads, I would also use something like PB or some other aerosol cleaner to cleanout the bolt holes as well, be sure to wear safety glasses, if your going to go through the process of taking something apart cleaning all the various parts, even the bolts and bolt holes it is part of of doing the job correctly, there should be no reason to replace the pan bolts unless you find one with the threads messed up.

Also if you find that a bolt that won't go all the way in the hole and you know the threads on the bolt are in good shape you should get the correct size tap and clean up the threads in the hole and clean it with PB afterwards throughly (make sure you use some cutting oil with the tap) even a new bolt in this case won't do you any good!

 

[CXS]

Don't touch it. You'd know if you have an issue that warrants dropping it.

The filter is nothing more than a screen.

^ This! Your fluid looks great, don't look for trouble, you just might find it!

 

[Bumbo]

Thanks everyone.

I added an edit about the pictures up top...

Edit: The lighter color fluid is brand new from the bottle... I poured a sample into the cup for comparison.

I decided that dropping the pan was not the right move. I see very little benefit at this point after some research. I also agree, If I do, I am probably out looking for trouble I don't want to find.

If the filter is a simple screen then its only job is to catch large particles. My concern was clogging and seeing an increased pressure drop across the filter, causing a lack of flow.

I was at my Toyota dealer on another issue but I asked about a Trans fluid exchange/flush (thought the lines (not forced by machine) which could be had for $190.

I thought it was somewhat reasonable considering I am just diluting the existing with new fluid, but I already started the drain/fill process so ill just keep at it. For that price I can go though two cases of juice and still be ahead.

And if anyone was curious about why I was at Toyota... I stripped the stupid 10mm drain plug on the front diff. That thing was on tight as sh1t. I started with a socket and ratchet, then breaker, then an air impact... no luck... crappy end to an otherwise good garage session changing fluids.

I had two more experienced friends in my ear about welding a socket to it and busting it off, and another saying to air hammer it off.

After buggering it all up even more the next morning I called it and took it in... I didn't have the tools (or experience) to resolve this one.

At this point I just wanted to make it someone else's problem so off to Toyota I went. I just wanted it done so I can move onto the next thing.

I was straight up with them about what what happened and the service adviser was great about it... I got to talk to the tech, laugh a little about my situation and talk shop for a bit, and on top of all that, they helped me out a little on price. They in fact air hammed it off and gave me back the part.

New drain and fill bolts

Now I can start planning my front brake calipers, pads, rotors, and a 6 line set of SS braided lines. Hopefully this one doesn't go sideways on me.

 

[DMX512]

[MENTION=144483]Bumbo[/MENTION]
I hear ya on the front diff. Mine was a ginormous PITA to get loose as well.
Fortunately, for me, not as nasty as yours.
Glad you got it worked out though.

 

[Morphyne]

Thanks everyone.

I added an edit about the pictures up top...

Edit: The lighter color fluid is brand new from the bottle... I poured a sample into the cup for comparison.

I decided that dropping the pan was not the right move. I see very little benefit at this point after some research. I also agree, If I do, I am probably out looking for trouble I don't want to find.

If the filter is a simple screen then its only job is to catch large particles. My concern was clogging and seeing an increased pressure drop across the filter, causing a lack of flow.

I was at my Toyota dealer on another issue but I asked about a Trans fluid exchange/flush (thought the lines (not forced by machine) which could be had for $190.

I thought it was somewhat reasonable considering I am just diluting the existing with new fluid, but I already started the drain/fill process so ill just keep at it. For that price I can go though two cases of juice and still be ahead.

And if anyone was curious about why I was at Toyota... I stripped the stupid 10mm drain plug on the front diff. That thing was on tight as sh1t. I started with a socket and ratchet, then breaker, then an air impact... no luck... crappy end to an otherwise good garage session changing fluids.

I had two more experienced friends in my ear about welding a socket to it and busting it off, and another saying to air hammer it off.

After buggering it all up even more the next morning I called it and took it in... I didn't have the tools (or experience) to resolve this one.

At this point I just wanted to make it someone else's problem so off to Toyota I went. I just wanted it done so I can move onto the next thing.

I was straight up with them about what what happened and the service adviser was great about it... I got to talk to the tech, laugh a little about my situation and talk shop for a bit, and on top of all that, they helped me out a little on price. They in fact air hammed it off and gave me back the part.

New drain and fill bolts

Now I can start planning my front brake calipers, pads, rotors, and a 6 line set of SS braided lines. Hopefully this one doesn't go sideways on me.

I did the exact thing. And the fix was the same. Except I am blessed by knowing a master tech at lexus that is allowed to moonlight in his bay at work on his days off.

 

[Bumbo]

I did the exact thing. And the fix was the same. Except I am blessed by knowing a master tech at lexus that is allowed to moonlight in his bay at work on his days off.

I too am blessed by knowing a master tech at General Motors,... which is great because I also have a Silverado...

He is the one that told me to air hammer it off in the first place.

Sometimes its a bit of an inconvenience getting my trucks into his service bay because on his days off because we are too busy beating up our trucks off-road.