attach strap to front end... where?

pipspeak

Member
So what is the verdict on where one should attached a snatch/tow strap to the front of the vehicle (with a shackle) if one ever needs to be pulled out of the muck? Are the factory tie-downs strong enough? If not, where do people suggest?

(just curious, not an emergency!)
 
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trust me...there good.


though i don't really recommend it: if you are really stuck then you can even have the rope slack and gun the pull truck and like...give it a jolt...them things ain't goin' nowhere....trust me lol
 
For those rare times, you should be okay... Best if the person pulling pulls straight back instead of at an angle. Would be even better to use both hooks if possible.
 
pipspeak said:
So what is the verdict on where one should attached a snatch/tow strap to the front of the vehicle (with a shackle) if one ever needs to be pulled out of the muck? Are the factory tie-downs strong enough? If not, where do people suggest?

(just curious, not an emergency!)

NO, the factory tie-down points are not strong enough (unless maybe you are barely stuck).
If you also have factory (or aftermarket) tow hooks, they are fine.
 
Re: Re: attach strap to front end... where?

fourwd1 said:
NO, the factory tie-down points are not strong enough (unless maybe you are barely stuck).
If you also have factory (or aftermarket) tow hooks, they are fine.

that's what i meant, i donno what a tie down point is, i thought we were talking about tow hooks
 
Most vehicles have stamped openings in the sheetmetal underneath the vehicle (2 front and 2 rear) used for tieing down the vehicle during transport (on ships, tractor trailers, etc.).

While they are tempting points to connect a snatch strap, they're really not strong enough.
 
fourwd1 said:
Most vehicles have stamped openings in the sheetmetal underneath the vehicle (2 front and 2 rear) used for tieing down the vehicle during transport (on ships, tractor trailers, etc.).

While they are tempting points to connect a snatch strap, they're really not strong enough.

Interesting. Thanks for the new knowlage because I have a car hauler that I use often for showcars and I have been using the towhooks (with some in-depth knots lol) but I will for sure use these newforund (to me) tiedown points!
 
kylebacc said:
Interesting. Thanks for the new knowlage because I have a car hauler that I use often for showcars and I have been using the towhooks (with some in-depth knots lol) but I will for sure use these newforund (to me) tiedown points!
I think you missed the point. DONT use the tie downs (peice of metal with a hole in it). DO use the tow hook (exactly that, a hook).
 
ive been recovered 2-3 with them, as I saw no other option in the front.....there are no tow hooks, so i used the loops.
I was stuck once REALLY bad, nearly went swimming, left front headlight was under water and water over driver side step, it was like quicksand basically.. but anyways i had used the hoops on a couple occasions (fairly serious, truck stuck all night) and hadnt had any probs, but once i read on here not to use them i havent.... i also havent gotten stuck since then.
I wonder if we are talking about the same things? there is no tow hook i know this for sure, and there is also NO OTHER point to attach a strap on the front end of the 4th gen 4runner.... kinda stupid imho
 
yes, i agree with you, the only recovery points on 4th gen are what you are talking about, the 2 loops welded to the frame. I'm not sure if this is what is referred to above as "tie down" (i.e. sheet metal with a hole in it)

Could someone please clarify? Thanks!
 
The 3rd gens have two front tie down points which are basically like a piece of thick angle iron bolted to the chassis with a hole cut in it. There is also a heavy duty type hook on the passenger side chassis rail. The risk when using the tie downs is that you may tear the bolts out if subjected to high loads, like when recovering a bogged vehicle with a snatch strap.
The welded loops on the 4th gen are reasonably strong, and will cope with light recovery situations and towing, but there is a strong possibilty that you may tear the welds off when doing heavy duty stuff. Toyota Australia have had many problems with the loops breaking off on the 120 Series Prado chassis's (very similar to the 4Runner and FJ) during vehicle recoveries. When ARB made a bullbar for the 120's and decided to utilise the factory loops (leave them easily accessible when the bar is fitted), within months of release they decided to redesign the bullbar mounting brackets to incorporate new heavy duty recovery points because dozens of people where ripping the factory loops clean off the chassis. Toyota of course simply say the loops arent rated for recovery loads.
So, use the 4Runner ones if you want, just be aware of the danger associated with them, and inspect them after use.... a broken loop could be a nasty projectile.
 
techno said:
I think you missed the point. DONT use the tie downs (peice of metal with a hole in it). DO use the tow hook (exactly that, a hook).

Actually, I think you missed what I was saying. For my car-hauler (trailer that I transport cars on), I will now tie down my cars unto it with the tie down points. I will still use my tow hooks for recovery. Now if I were to be towing my vehicles, I would use the tow hooks as well, however, the cars just need to be tied down :D

You understand?
 
Gotcha.... seemed like you were still referring to your original post question about 'getting pulled out of the muck'.
We're good now:)
 

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