Bad vibes

WRfarmer

Junior Member
My 2000 T4R has a very fast vibration at highway speeds. Vibe feels like it is in driveline but u joints seem to be tight. When driving uphill at highway speeds it is not as noticeable but as I crest the hill and let off the accelerator the vibration starts immediately but becomes less noticeable if I give a little gas. I'm thinking about replacing u joints to see if that helps unless someone has had a similar issue and has a different "fix".

I am running 265-75-16 Duratracs on stock wheels with 1.25" spacers to clear Tundra rotors and calipers. Great tires for off road but so so for highway. 3.4 ltr with 5 speeds manual. 3" front Toytech lift with Bilsteins, 2" rear spacer lift,
 
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My 2000 T4R has a very fast vibration at highway speeds. Vibe feels like it is in driveline but u joints seem to be tight. When driving uphill at highway speeds it is not as noticeable but as I crest the hill and let off the accelerator the vibration starts immediately but becomes less noticeable if I give a little gas. I'm thinking about replacing u joints to see if that helps unless someone has had a similar issue and has a different "fix".

I am running 265-75-16 Duratracs on stock wheels with 1.25" spacers to clear Tundra rotors and calipers. Great tires for off road but so so for highway. 3.4 ltr with 5 speeds manual. 3" front Toytech lift with Bilsteins, 2" rear spacer lift,
Sounds like ujoints. Does it feel a little clunky when you hit the gas and come off the gas?
By the time I got mine done, it had nearly blown out of the yoke.

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Could also be a worn slip joint in the driveshaft. Try greasing all zerk fittings on the shaft and see if it makes any difference.
 
Could also be a worn slip joint in the driveshaft. Try greasing all zerk fittings on the shaft and see if it makes any difference.

Grease is the easiest thing to try. Supposed to be part of regular maintenance for 4WD vehicles.

I just posted this somewhere else for a similar question:

Steering wobble can be any of the following:

1. Inner tie rods with play
2. Outer tie rods with play
3. Failing steering rack (not common)
4. Bad u-joints on driveshaft
5. Bad driveshaft
6. Lower ball joint with play
7. Bad tires/poor tire wear
8. Bad alignment
9. Tires out of balance
10. Steering rack bushings
11. Sway bay bushings/end link bushings.

and I'll add one more:

12. Loose/mis-aligned wheel spacers

The more you lift and modify the wheels/axles the more potential issues that can arise in regards to noise and vibration.
 
When our u-joints wore out and vibrated the vibrations varied with being on the gas and off.
But when we went to check it both drivelines were very tight and had no movement.
Then we eventually decided to jack the rear of the truck up and check it and it moved about 3/4 of an inch at the rear u-joint. We found out it was because of the tension on the rear drive line due to it being in park and on a very slight hill.

So it could have tension in the driveline, so i would try jacking up the rear or put the parking brake on so it does not rest on the park pin and then check the drivelines.
 
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I would try greasing the U joints first but they may already be shot.

I would not suggest greasing the zerk fitting on the slip yoke. All it does is build up a ton of grease at the base of the yoke which can cause issues.

When I greased my slip yoke about a week ago I actually removed the yoke and saw the splines were pretty dry. At the base of the yoke was gobs of grease that had no intention of ever coating the splines. I used a small brushed and removed the gobs of grease and brushed it evenly on the splines. When I slipped it back on, I pushed it all the way down with the zerk fitting removed to push any excess grease out.

At this point I decided to leave the zerk fitting completely off since its worthless in that location. Plus it allows air to easily escape when the slip yoke is sliding in and out.

Just my 2 pennies.
 
Bad vibe. Thank you!

Thank you everyone! I decided to replace the u joints and in a round about way the vibe was cured. The rear u joint was no problem BUT the front double cardan joint was the fix. After removing the u joints from the DC, I attempted to press in the U joints sold to me at the parts store only to find out that what they have listed is for a regular u joint, not a DC. It turns out that the replacement u joints for the DC don't exist. Toyota used a weird size and evidently they are in very limited supply so not available.
I ended up having a new drive shaft ($446.20 at Rocky Mountain Drive Line) made with a DC that uses 1310's that can be had anywhere. There was slop in the old slip joint anyway so I killed two birds with one stone. Now I gotta find wheels that will fit over the Tundra calipers so I can ditch the spacers.
Anybody in the Denver area have a set of wheels that will work that they want to sell CHEAP?

Again, THANKS to all for your replies!
 

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