Bandit Runner's Roof Rack Build

Bandit Runner

Senior Member
So I figured it was about time I made a build thread for my latest project – a custom roof rack. First, this won’t be a basket type rack (even though some of those look really cool). I really have no use for a basket, plus I am really constrained on height. I only have about 5” between the top of my roof and my garage door, so that’s what I have to work within. I’ve always liked the Nissan Xterra style racks, so that’s the style I am going for.

Design constraints:
1. Keep it low, so I can still fit the truck into the garage.
2. Make it so that I can still use my car-top-carrier.
3. Need a place to mount some roof lights (also all wiring must be completely hidden).
4. Must be able to mount our new kayaks to it securely. (Or other long items, – boards, ladders, etc)
5. Give it a custom look, that still fits in with the design of the rest of the truck.
6. Must mount using existing holes in roof.
7. Keep it as light as possible, yet strong enough.

The first thing I decided was to eliminate the OEM roof rack rails that mount to the roof. They stand up a little high, and by using flat stock instead, I can gain about a half inch of height. Every little bit helps, right? So I started designing the rack in CAD. I originally designed it so that it stopped just behind the sun roof, and did not extend the full length of the roof. I have kind of a 45 degree angle theme going on with my truck, as many of the angles on my bumpers, sliders, and even skid plates are at 45 degrees. So I wanted the vertical supports to be at a 45 degree angle to match everything else. (Sorry, I didn’t save any images of the original CAD design.)

As for lights, I didn’t want anything sticking up higher than the top rail of the roof rack. So that meant I needed some VERY low profile lights that would fit between the rack and the roof. The only viable option I could find was the single row LED light bars from Rigid Industries. I chose to run a pair of the 6” spot lights. A little expensive, but worth it (plus they will look bada$$ up there).

Pic of the lights:
zNAMAHh.jpg


Then I built a quick prototype to see how I liked it. I used some 3/16” thick wood for the mounting rails, and the rest was PVC pipe and electrical conduit tubing. Here are some pics of the prototype in process:

Fitting the flat rails:
syH3CT2.jpg


A pile of plastic tubing:
PyhV6kn.jpg


Putting the tubing together:
dUaEWLI.jpg


Setting the tubing to the correct height:
Fd1AkrB.jpg


Added the 45 degree supports:
sw0XMJf.jpg


Test fitting it on the truck:
OZGAFqk.jpg


88JyeVi.jpg


Test fitting the car-top-carrier:
1VHmuNq.jpg


fFQRJiY.jpg


But of course you can’t get a good feel for how its going to look until you paint it black:
FDn08Y7.jpg

XRF0bmg.jpg

sJlBMcc.jpg

g7lbx00.jpg

BFZWXSV.jpg


Overall, I was happy with the design, but not entirely satisfied.
 
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So I decided to change a few things in the design. First, I had used 1.25” diameter tubing for the main horizontal rails. They made the rack look a little “dainty”, especially next to my wife’s FJCruiser since its roof rack was all 1.75” tubing. Well, I couldn’t jump all the way up to 1.75” because It would be too tall (and heavy), so I compromised by changing it to 1.5” diameter.

Next, I didn’t like how far back the lights sat (under the front cross bar, just behind the sun roof). When the sunroof was up, it could block part of the lights. After much consideration, I finally decided to extent the rack all the way to the front of the roof. This puts the lights in front of the sunroof. I kept the cross bar just behind the sunroof too, for mounting kayak racks, etc. So the very front cross bar is basically just a light bar. I also add hoops around the lights for styling and protection.

Pics of new design in CAD:
9ChNsfG.jpg


DjOwVkR.jpg


Front:
M0lNmgr.jpg


Side:
ZqJanJa.jpg


Top:
hXUKJc5.jpg


Lights with hoops:
bCM2DPN.jpg


I did not build another prototype of the new design. I felt that I had learned enough from the first one.

So I started collecting steel pieces from the scrap bin at work. The larger pieces I’ll have to purchase. Over the last few weeks I’ve been working on some of the smaller parts. To hide the light wires and connectors, I cut openings in the bottom of the front cross bar. Then I made covers to close up the openings after the wire connections are made. You can kind of see them in the pic.

Collection of parts I’ve been working on:
GqdjUOK.jpg


I have no way of bending tubing to get the desired angles. So I purchased some steel 90 degree elbows from a handrail supplier. Then I cut them in half to get the 45 degree angles that I need. I will just weld these between the ends of the straight sections of the tubing to get the desired effect.

Pic of weld-on elbows cut up:
3xCnP6w.jpg


Yesterday I just ordered a 20’ piece of 1.5” diameter x 13 gage tubing.

That’s where it stands as of right now. Thanks.
 
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I was just reading your build thread, really good stuff in there!

The plans look great. I'm amazed at how much time you put into these projects, but that is also why they turn out so well. Even the prototypes look incredible.

I like that you are making it full length. Great work so far!

:snacker:
 
Looks like a fun project, Bandit. I like the full length version better myself, so I'm glad you're going that route. I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product.
 
Thanks everyone! I'm glad I could provide some entertainment for you all.

It seems like most of you prefer the full length rack. I guess I made the right decision.
 
Definitely like the full length better.
I think the low profile is really interesting - I like it, more interesting how you integrated the light bars.

Side point - those are some crazy high posts you have holding your back porch up. haha is that cedar? (sorry I'm a carpenter, I can't help it.)
 
As I am just starting this adventure, I am looking closely at your projects. I have quite a bit of stuff to do this next week to get the lift, and undercarraige clean up completed. But then the real build efforts begin. I can only strive to have results as well designed as your! I like to build things myself, so my next project will be front and rear plate bumpers.

I also want to do custom roof rack, but was thinking of doing it in aluminum???
 
Definitely like the full length better.
I think the low profile is really interesting - I like it, more interesting how you integrated the light bars.

Side point - those are some crazy high posts you have holding your back porch up. haha is that cedar? (sorry I'm a carpenter, I can't help it.)

Thanks. The deck posts are just 4x4x16' treated lumber. I designed that deck in CAD before I built it too.
 
As I am just starting this adventure, I am looking closely at your projects. I have quite a bit of stuff to do this next week to get the lift, and undercarraige clean up completed. But then the real build efforts begin. I can only strive to have results as well designed as your! I like to build things myself, so my next project will be front and rear plate bumpers.

I also want to do custom roof rack, but was thinking of doing it in aluminum???

Thanks and good luck with your build. I also thought about doing the rack in aluminum, but I don't have any experience welding aluminum.
 
Maybe its just me, but based on your incredible attention to detail, my inability to copy you and my love of awesome builds. I think you should commit to an exo cage. I think the mock up alone would be freaking awesome!
 
Update (Sort of)

So one of the main reasons I changed to a full length rack was so that I could use it to attach limb risers to. I spent some time figuring out where the risers would run, and realized that my snorkel head was right in the way. Wouldn't ya know it. I really wanted the passenger side limb riser to run above the snorkel head, because last time I was offroading, branches were catching on it.

So I decided to lower the snorkel head a few inches, and also bring it back closer to the A-pillar, so that there is room for the riser to run just above the snorkel head. To do this I just need to replace the curved transition piece that connects the straight main tube to the head. So I designed one and had a rapid prototype made.

Here's a pic comparing the new piece to the old one. You can see how much tighter the bend radius is.
hOe1pZ6.jpg


Then I removed the snorkel from the truck and cut the old curved piece off.
mz14EYN.jpg


Then I temporarily set the head on it, and set it on the truck to see how it looked.
MqRqcXr.jpg

MHZqUBR.jpg


Looks pretty good. I still need to epoxy everything back together and sand it smooth and repaint it. So I will be running snorkelless for a while.
 
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This looks killer! Very nice work indeed. too bad you dont have bender, its sooo much easier. that 13ga. tube is pure BEEF! I cant wait to see it all done.
 

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