Baseline/PM on 2000 w/60k miles

[luke1215]

Greetings, all -

Looking for some input on baseline/PM for a new-to-me 2000 4R with 60k original miles. Awesome find, Alabama truck, immaculate condition, runs perfectly, but very little maintenance history. PO claimed to have routinely maintained it, but had little documentation

Brought it to CA, but moving to TX (like everyone else) and want to get this set for the next 20yrs (wife's daily). Started with fluids, look great. Considering the aircabinman timing belt kit ... which led me to a new rad (trans cooler ordered, will bypass) ... and maybe replace all the cooling hoses (What other hoses should I replace?). It's hard to know where to draw the line ...

What's the consensus on an older, low mileage truck like this? Is a timing belt really necessary? Should I replace the rad and cooling hoses along the way? What else am I missing? I've mostly driven 5th gens and FJCs, so these older 3rd gens are new to me. Appreciate your input on these items and any others you'd recommend.

Cheers!

 

[cl4Rk]

want to get this set for the next 20yrs (wife's daily). Started with fluids, look great.

Amazing find!

- Just a thought: depending on where you end up in TX, you may benefit from running the external ATF cooler in series rather than bypassing the radiator (assuming you end up replacing the radiator anyway).
- Consider getting a baseline compression test.
- Grease the driveshaft.
- Check the state of all the bushings and hoses. Despite the low miles, age alone can harden/dry/age the rubber.

I’m looking forward to see all the other suggestions. Best of luck!!! And again, awesome find!

 

[Sarki]

I’d replace the LBJ’s since failure is a big deal and installation of new ones isn’t a big deal. I would also only go with OEM parts.
Verify the valve cover gaskets are still doing their job as age has a way of resulting in leaks.
Visual inspection of tires for any dry rot and also check date codes, replace if older than 6 years.
Enjoy for the next 2+ decades!

 

[AntleredRuin]

At this point, I'd recommend overhauling pretty much everything due to age, not mileage. It's a catch-22; most everything has not reached the mileage that warrants a replacement, but the original parts can still go bad by themselves. The low mileage may have led to a lack of maintenance over the years, so to speak. Everything sat longer, which can lead to dry rot and bad fluids much faster than being actively used. There is a reason why most replacement parts say "x miles or x years"

Definitely the TB. Even if it 'technically' has 30k miles left on it, it's 21 years old and likely to give out soon. I'd trust the TB on my 240k mile truck with the same 'mileage age' (60k) more than the TB on yours, because I know its only 3 years old.

The coolant likely has not been changed, so I'd recommend a full flush, and likely a new radiator. 21 years of old coolant will definitely corrode.

Do several oil changes over the next few months to ensure that any gunk is cleaned out thoroughly.

Consider running fuel injector cleaner the next few gas tanks to clear out any gunk that may have settled, as well as the damage/clogs it may have created in the injectors.
Change the inline fuel filter with OEM or a WIX brand

 

[Bad Luck]

Greetings, all -

Looking for some input on baseline/PM for a new-to-me 2000 4R with 60k original miles. Awesome find, Alabama truck, immaculate condition, runs perfectly, but very little maintenance history.

Brought it to CA, but moving to TX (like everyone else) and want to get this set for the next 20yrs (wife's daily). Started with fluids, look great. Considering the aircabinman timing belt kit ... which led me to a new rad (trans cooler ordered, will bypass) ... and maybe replace all the cooling hoses (What other hoses should I replace?). It's hard to know where to draw the line ...

What's the consensus on an older, low mileage truck like this? Is a timing belt really necessary? Should I replace the rad and cooling hoses along the way? What else am I missing? I've mostly driven 5th gens and FJCs, so these older 3rd gens are new to me. Appreciate your input on these items and any others you'd recommend.

Cheers!

I would recommend pulling the top timing cover back a little and checking the belt condition. It is likely still in good condition. I'd recommend flushing the cooling system with distilled water a time or two and then refilling with Toyota red coolant or Toyota pink coolant. I see that you've ordered a trans cooler and plan to bypass it. If you are going to bypass the radiator transmission cooler then as long as the radiator isn't brown or cracking I wouldn't replace the radiator. I see no need to replace the coolant hoses unless they are visibly damaged/swelling/deteriorated. Replacing the lower ball joints and lower ball joint bolts with OEM would probably be a wise decision. The grease in the lower ball joints can dry up over time and cause failure from lack of proper lubrication. Address any leaks that you might find in the process. I'd also recommend doing a couple short interval oil changes (about 1000 miles each) with a decent regular 5w30 oil.

 

[luke1215]

Thx for the input, all. A great find, indeed.

I did a comprehensive 30k service. Flushed/inspected all the fluids - everything was clean except PS fluid. Coolant (Toyota red) was excellent, diff/trans magnetic drain bolts had little accumulation. No leaks or corrosion anywhere, belts/hoses/boots are great, so the PO's claims of regular maintenance check out. It does need new tires, they're 8yrs old with only 11k miles ... that and the trans cooler. I'll have a look at the LBJs, thx.

My main concern was the TB/rad but both check out; I pulled the rad and it looks great/no discoloration. My second issue was the age of original parts. Based on this thread (When to change timing belt? - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum), I'll let it be and reconsider down the road. That, and I have two '94 Landys that are all original with 73k and 158k and still running perfectly.

Appreciate the input, open to anything other suggestions.

 

[jgue467]

Nice find. I've learned what mileage does not undermine, time does. Timing belts are slightly less important to change on schedule for non-interference engines yet broken down on side of a highway in summer heat is no fun either.

LBJs are a must as others said, their failure is of only one type: instant catastrophic drop to the ground whether standing still or at highway speeds.

As others said, I would not suggest bypassing trans cooler in radiator, just get a new radiator every 10 yrs or so. In stop/go 100+ heat of many summer days in Tx trans temps will get near or above 200, all the way to 240 by-passed and that is without towing yet. I run a fan over my external cooler when towing, stays under 200. Lower trans temps lead to longer life for that component.

Luck and enjoy.

 

[luke1215]

Because of QC issues with the new OEM Denso rads (made in Taiwan), I planned to order a Koyo aluminum rad which requires a separate trans cooler. I need to rethink this setup ...