Battery CCA

Shocks

New member
So I'm at Toyota getting an oil change and they tested my battery. They said they recommend a new battery because the CCA is low.

My question is, what is considered low? They said the rating is 575CCA and my battery measured 457CCA.

Just so everything is clear, I drove about 15-20 minutes to the dealer in stop and go traffic, about 8-9 miles. I never noticed any issues starting the truck since I bought it used at the end of March. It currently has just over 60k miles. They tested the battery right when I got there.

The guy also said I needed a tire rotation because there's more tread in the rear than the front but will cost me $15. Since when did they charge for tire rotation when you are getting your oil changed? Anyway I didn't do it because the tires have like 3k miles on them lol.


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You might want to check your warranty on that battery. Since you have a 14, I'd assume its still the OEM. Also, understand want CCA stands for. Don't want you to have a dead truck come winter.

And rotate your tires when you get home. Maximize your tire life. Front's usually wear quicker because there's more weight on them + you steer on them.
 
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Your Open Circuit voltage reads 12.59 volts. Some would say this is not a valid test of battery condition and I would not necessarily argue it, but if it gave that reading after any sort of drive and maybe an hr. or so has past since the engine was shut off, the battery may be getting weak.

My wifes 2014 SR5 battery has never had an impressive voltage reading...from day one. The vehicle is now 2 1/2 yrs. old. I'll wait for it to die as she has another vehicle to use when that happens.

Also, the dealer will sell you a Toyota TrueStart battery which IS NOT the same quality as factory batteries. I've had countless issues with them and will never buy another one. On the Tacomaworld forum, Canadian members rant and rave how great North Start batteries are. They're expensive, but do well in cold climates like the one you live in.
 
You might want to check your warranty on that battery. Since you have a 14, I'd assume its still the OEM. Also, understand want CCA stands for. Don't want you to have a dead truck come winter.

And rotate your tires when you get home. Maximize your tire life. Front's usually wear quicker because there's more weight on them + you steer on them.

I bought it used so I'm guessing it is OEM. I'll rotate the tires in a week or so, just don't have the time right now. I'll look into replacing the battery a month or so before it starts getting cold. Thanks for the info.


Your Open Circuit voltage reads 12.59 volts. Some would say this is not a valid test of battery condition and I would not necessarily argue it, but if it gave that reading after any sort of drive and maybe an hr. or so has past since the engine was shut off, the battery may be getting weak.

My wifes 2014 SR5 battery has never had an impressive voltage reading...from day one. The vehicle is now 2 1/2 yrs. old. I'll wait for it to die as she has another vehicle to use when that happens.

Also, the dealer will sell you a Toyota TrueStart battery which IS NOT the same quality as factory batteries. I've had countless issues with them and will never buy another one. On the Tacomaworld forum, Canadian members rant and rave how great North Start batteries are. They're expensive, but do well in cold climates like the one you live in.

Thanks, I just thought Toyota was just trying to pull one over on me. I'll look into North Start when I go to replace the battery. There's a chance I may move to the Carolinas (it's to damn expensive in NY!) so I may not need something for single digit weather anymore.

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I've always used Sam's/Costco replacements. Easy to find if I need to warranty the battery since we're always shopping there.
 
Check all connections, drive for about 30 mins, take it to an auto parts retailer and have them load test it.

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I've always used Sam's/Costco replacements. Easy to find if I need to warranty the battery since we're always shopping there.

Def a good idea. I like big companies for stuff like this because if I'm ever on vacation and something happens I'm more likely to find that chain.



Check all connections, drive for about 30 mins, take it to an auto parts retailer and have them load test it.

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Besides the positive and negative terminals, would there be anything else to check or clean? I'm thinking that would be it but I figured it couldn't hurt to ask.
 
Besides the positive and negative terminals, would there be anything else to check or clean? I'm thinking that would be it but I figured it couldn't hurt to ask.

Look at the cables, grounds and connections from the alternator. What I would do first is take it for a 30 minute drive and stop at a parts store and have them test it.
 
... The guy also said I needed a tire rotation because there's more tread in the rear than the front but will cost me $15. Since when did they charge for tire rotation when you are getting your oil changed? Anyway I didn't do it because the tires have like 3k miles on them lol.

Wait... the tires were NEW 3000 miles ago, and the wear difference is measureable???

If that's true, something's not right. I suggest while you're at Auto Zone getting the battery checked you buy a tire depth gauge and find out for yourself.

Do you check your tire pressure? Are you doing burnouts?
 
Wait... the tires were NEW 3000 miles ago, and the wear difference is measureable???

If that's true, something's not right. I suggest while you're at Auto Zone getting the battery checked you buy a tire depth gauge and find out for yourself.

Do you check your tire pressure? Are you doing burnouts?
The tires still had all the nubs on them when I picked up the truck. Half the time I had the truck I had different tires and rims on. I put these back on because I'm driving from NY to South NJ and don't want to burn through my BFG'S on the highway. I also rotated my tires when I change rims.

When the guy said my tires needed to be rotated I thought it was him just trying to get me to pay for a service I didn't really need. That's what prompted me to ask about the battery because I'm not familiar with CCA levels and what's considered low. When he said I needed a new battery I thought he was trying to pull a fast one.

For the record, I haven't done burnouts. All I have done was run through some mud pits by an old airport near me.

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Wait... the tires were NEW 3000 miles ago, and the wear difference is measureable???

If that's true, something's not right. I suggest while you're at Auto Zone getting the battery checked you buy a tire depth gauge and find out for yourself.

Do you check your tire pressure? Are you doing burnouts?

Good catch. You might want to get your alignment checked if the measurements are indeed showing wear already. It shouldn't be that drastic with 3k wear and tear on normal driving.
 

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