Battery Light Flashing - Alternator & Battery Check Out Okay

[revans611]

My battery light on my 1997 4runner is flashing intermittently, but the alternator and battery both check out to be okay.

I just had a mechanic do an analysis. He replaced the cable from the battery to the starter because the old one was frayed. I picked up the car, and it did not flash on the drive home, but it started again the next day.

I haven't noticed if it happens only if I am driving or if it also happens when parked.

I don't want to go back to the mechanic and throw parts at the problem. Suggestions on what my next move should be will be greatly appreciated.

 

[pluton]

My original '97 alternator started producing big voltage swings when it began to go. My in-car, constantly 'on' Scangauge displayed the fluctuating voltage. I never got the batt/alt light. I replaced the alt. All the crazy voltage readings immediately went away.
See if you can arrange a voltage meter to watch while you drive.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Battery Light Flashing - Alternator & Battery Check Out Okay

My original '97 alternator started producing big voltage swings when it began to go. My in-car, constantly 'on' Scangauge displayed the fluctuating voltage. I never got the batt/alt light. I replaced the alt. All the crazy voltage readings immediately went away.
See if you can arrange a voltage meter to watch while you drive.

There are plenty of usb chargers out there that display system voltage. They are handy to have.

Innova also makes a volt meter that goes into the accessory /cig lighter port.

I have both.

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[brillo_76]

I never seen the battery flash. Has to be voltages majorly fluctuations.
Like othe members said pull the voltage off the cigarette plug to see what's going on...

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[JoeT4R]

I had a similar situation about 1.5 years ago and it would flash intermittently while driving. I noticed this while on a long distance road trip, so I was worried sick to say the least.

At one point I pulled over, opened the hood and made sure my positive and negative terminals were secured tightly. They were.

When I got home, I took it to a store to have my battery and alternator tested. They both tested within normal limits I replaced the battery first because 1.) It was due but 2.) I felt like it was an inexpensive fix.

The next day I go to start the truck, absolutely nothing. Dead as dead could get. So I bought a Denso reman alternator. Put it in the following day. Never had the issue since. Again, both my battery and alternator both tested fine. It's been running smooth ever since. Never understood it, but I'm not going to question it since the truck is operating normally. Just my experience I wanted to share.

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[heat]

Wondering if this is the brushes being worn so much they only intermittently
touch the commutator (or intermittently lost contact, whatever).

 

[JoeT4R]

Wondering if this is the brushes being worn so much they only intermittently

touch the commutator (or intermittently lost contact, whatever).

I could foresee this being a likely possibility. Maybe OP will replace the alt and take apart the old one to find out.

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[revans611]

I drove the 4runner 10 miles yesterday, and the battery light started blinking at mile 5. I replaced the alternator today with a rebuild; $179.99 at Auto Zone. I drove the 4runner 10.5 miles tonight, and the battery light stayed quiet. Maybe it is fixed. I will keep y'all posted.


Update: 8 days later and still no problem with the battery light. The alternator replacement must have fixed it.

 

[JoeT4R]

I drove the 4runner 10 miles yesterday, and the battery light started blinking at mile 5. I replaced the alternator today with a rebuild; $179.99 at Auto Zone. I drove the 4runner 10.5 miles tonight, and the battery light stayed quiet. Maybe it is fixed. I will keep y'all posted.

Glad to hear you're having good results so far. Be careful with the stuff you get from auto parts stores, especially when it comes to alternators/starters. They tend to wear out a lot quicker than your Denso/OEM stuff. I had an aftermarket parts store alternator quit on me after only 4 years. Bearings went bad.

 

[Rushthezeppelin]

Interesting to know that the parts store testers can give you false security. I've had some pretty anemic starts in single digits and below this winter (cranks and starts but quite slow) and that all tested fine when I had it checked.

 

[Bad Luck]

Interesting to know that the parts store testers can give you false security. I've had some pretty anemic starts in single digits and below this winter (cranks and starts but quite slow) and that all tested fine when I had it checked.

I think the main downfall with the parts store testers is they are testing whatever part you bring in at room temperature. Most alternators/starters that begin to fail usually are fine at room temp, but when they get hot in the engine bay they start to not operate correctly. Heat is always the enemy for vehicle components.

 

[cblock406]

I had O'Reilly's test my alternator as "good" and kept getting the battery light. Finally replaced it with a remanned Denso and fixed my problem. I wouldn't trust the alternator test.

 

[shadow247]

Glad to hear you're having good results so far. Be careful with the stuff you get from auto parts stores, especially when it comes to alternators/starters. They tend to wear out a lot quicker than your Denso/OEM stuff. I had an aftermarket parts store alternator quit on me after only 4 years. Bearings went bad.

4 years is a good life for Parts Store Alts and Starters in my opinion. I'm currently on my 2nd Alt from Oreilly since 2021...

I had my OEM rebuild recently by a local builder, gonna swap that in when the Ultima(te crap) from Oreilly dies. I keep it in my truck just in case it happens on a long trip.

 

[JoeT4R]

I had O'Reilly's test my alternator as "good" and kept getting the battery light. Finally replaced it with a remanned Denso and fixed my problem. I wouldn't trust the alternator test.

This.

4 years is a good life for Parts Store Alts and Starters in my opinion. I'm currently on my 2nd Alt from Oreilly since 2021...

I had my OEM rebuild recently by a local builder, gonna swap that in when the Ultima(te crap) from Oreilly dies. I keep it in my truck just in case it happens on a long trip.

Also this.

I'm totally good with buying a Denso reman unit for almost anything on our rigs. I'm also totally open to having the OEM components rebuilt as well with Toyota parts. I just don't think the auto parts store stuff is the best route to take, at least from a longevity standpoint. No need to cheap out over and over and over.

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[revans611]

Update: 8 days later and still no problem with the battery light. The alternator replacement must have fixed it.

 

[brillo_76]

Update: 8 days later and still no problem with the battery light. The alternator replacement must have fixed it.

Great news. Let us know how long the aftermarket alt lasts. As I think they use cheaper soft brushes which last as long as the densos do .

Time will tell how long it will hold out. Maybe your luck is better then most.



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[revans611]

Glad to hear you're having good results so far. Be careful with the stuff you get from auto parts stores, especially when it comes to alternators/starters. They tend to wear out a lot quicker than your Denso/OEM stuff. I had an aftermarket parts store alternator quit on me after only 4 years. Bearings went bad.

I think you are probably right about OEM vs auto store parts. I once had a horrible experience with a non-OEM clutch pressure plate. It "shuddered" when starting off in 1st gear. Took it back to the mechanic who installed another non-OEM part with the same result.

Then I phoned in to a local radio station car repair show. The very experienced host suggested that I go OEM. I did, and the problem was solved.

 

[JoeT4R]

I think you are probably right about OEM vs auto store parts. I once had a horrible experience with a non-OEM clutch pressure plate. It "shuddered" when starting off in 1st gear. Took it back to the mechanic who installed another non-OEM part with the same result.

Then I phoned in to a local radio station car repair show. The very experienced host suggested that I go OEM. I did, and the problem was solved.

There's a few things that I'm okay with not using OEM parts for, but for the most part I try to stick with Toyota stuff. It just all depends.

 

[brillo_76]

I can confirm he is correct. Don't get me wrong, it's an extreme shame. However, there isn't a comparison between the 2. It's just reality.

There are parts you can get away with, though. Like brake pads, suspension, and Tires as examples.

Major Drivetrain parts it's best to use oem mfg in place of oem if need be.

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