Best Brakes....ready, go!

[LOSTR4]

Where is everyone finding their brake setups at? Waiting for holiday sales or has anyone found a ready and reliable good product and cheap prices on rotors and pads? I understand there are many aftermarket rotors falling apart these days and I'm concerned that if I don't go OEM, there is a chance of getting some of the crap that got through QC...I have about 80k miles on my setup and the brakes are now becoming a little squishy...or...less firm and race-car feeling (instant stop and ultra sensitive) as they used to feel...this will become my DD up and down a mountain for the next 5 years so I want to ensure safety and reliability...

I've had great success with PowerStop slotted rotors on other vehicles, could it be assumed these would be sufficient for a mildly lifted, heavy V8 beast?

Folks used to "update" their brakes to 5th gen calipers and rotors too...but more reading seemed to show some finicky reliability...

 

[SurferUK]

I have about 80k miles on my setup and the brakes are now becoming a little squishy...or...less firm and race-car feeling (instant stop and ultra sensitive)

Have to say I am not that impressed with the brakes on mine with 60,000 miles. I guess hoses could have gone spongy by now, hopefully it's nothing serious.

I changed the front brake pads for Brembo yesterday and have not noticed any difference.

 

[zguy1]

Where is everyone finding their brake setups at? Waiting for holiday sales or has anyone found a ready and reliable good product and cheap prices on rotors and pads? I understand there are many aftermarket rotors falling apart these days and I'm concerned that if I don't go OEM, there is a chance of getting some of the crap that got through QC...I have about 80k miles on my setup and the brakes are now becoming a little squishy...or...less firm and race-car feeling (instant stop and ultra sensitive) as they used to feel...this will become my DD up and down a mountain for the next 5 years so I want to ensure safety and reliability...

I've had great success with PowerStop slotted rotors on other vehicles, could it be assumed these would be sufficient for a mildly lifted, heavy V8 beast?

Folks used to "update" their brakes to 5th gen calipers and rotors too...but more reading seemed to show some finicky reliability...

I don't know about mine being the best but I spent a lot of time researching options. I went with Akebono pads (ACT976) and Centric rotors. I put them on in February and have driven almost 20k since. No noise or pulsation so far. I have driven on various roads including mountain roads with steep grades.

My original brakes had about 30 percent remaining but I got tired of the pulsation that they had for the past year or so while they were on the car. That was the main reason I changed them.

 

[chompster4runner]

McGeorge Toyota is having some sales right now per email I received from them. I make it a routine now to bleed the brake fluid every year at least. It’s cheap. Brake pedal feels nice and firm.

 

[gimlithepirate]

I don't know about mine being the best but I spent a lot of time researching options. I went with Akebono pads (ACT976) and Centric rotors. I put them on in February and have driven almost 20k since. No noise or pulsation so far. I have driven on various roads including mountain roads with steep grades.

My original brakes had about 30 percent remaining but I got tired of the pulsation that they had for the past year or so while they were on the car. That was the main reason I changed them.

I have this combo and it is the loudest set of brakes I've ever had -_- Squeals pretty regularly when I start driving. It goes away as stuff warms up, but still annoying.

 

[zguy1]

I have this combo and it is the loudest set of brakes I've ever had -_- Squeals pretty regularly when I start driving. It goes away as stuff warms up, but still annoying.

Interesting. I have zero noise. I wonder if you have an issue with corrosion or something going on with your guide pins. A lot of folks here are running those pads, centric rotors or both without issues.

 

[Inv4drZm]

I've got stoptech cryo treated rotors, stoptech pads, stock calipers, and stainless brake lines w/ new fluid. Braking feels great even with 37's. Not exactly an expensive setup.

 

[Racso]

For my ‘03 sport I’m using coated centric rear rotors and regular akebono pads. For the front I did Raybestos 980160Per and Akebono ASP976. The front rotors might be a little too much and I could have gotten them without the slots but I just wanted to try them out. The whole setup stops really good without noise so I’m happy with them.

 

[riverwolf]

OP, your use of the word "squishy" to me, would suggest it might be time to flush your brake fluid. Not just bleed. Apologies if you already know this, but brake fluid is a time based, not mileage based replacement due to the fluid attracting moisture. Under hard braking, the water boils much earlier than brake fluid...steam compresses and your brakes get "squishy". Or, you could have air in the line.

As far as performance, it really comes down to pad surface contact area and coefficient of friction (assuming the brake system is otherwise functioning normally). I imagine all manufacturer's fitment will produce roughly the same contact area so your left with CoF as your variable. The OEM pads' CoF is FF and they were a ceramic compound from the factory. The Akebono ProActs (ACT976 & ACT606) are also rated FF. I was very happy with them for roughly 100K miles as a factory replacement. When it was time to replace them, literally about a month ago, I discovered Akebono had introduced a ProAct Ultra Premium line (ASP976 / ASP606), which is still a ceramic compound for less dusting, but the CoF was uprated to GG. It might just be placebo, but the butt dyno tells me they do stop better than the standard ProAct. So far, the Ultra Premiums don't seem to dust any worse than the standard ProAct. The dust of either is essentially the color of the factory alloys so you don't really notice the dust unless you run a finger through it.

I didn't replace the rotors this time around. Both axles were still in good shape. Still running factory originals on the rear and put Centric Premiums (coated hats, high carbon 4Runner fitment wasn't available back then) on the front along with the ProActs dues to warping of the factory fronts...I blame dealer service bay using impact guns to install wheels.

I do encourage you to spend a few extra bucks and replace all of the brake hardware when you do the pads...retention springs, slide pins, guide boots, etc. And use a good quality brake grease.

FWIW, I also used Centric rotors (high carbon, this time) and Akebono Euros on my BMW E46 convertible. Like the ProAct UP, the Euros are a ceramic blend and GG rated the same as the BMW OE semi-metallic pads. Unlike those factory semi-metallics, my wheels aren't black with brake dust by the time I get to the end of the driveway. I've never regretted the switch.

In short. I think you could spend a lot more money and not get much, if any, better performance than the Centric rotors (or equivalent) and the Akebono UP fitment (currently $46/$43 front/rear @ RockAuto).

Good luck.

 

[Urbanite]

I'm also thinking of changing my pads and rotors because pads are getting low with 25% left on them. Recently I had to hit the brakes hard after an idiot ran their red light, luckily I missed him by about a yard, but I didn't like how my 4R handled that emergency; it felt like I was in a rocking boat. It's not a pads/rotors issue; possibly the entire brake system is too small for the size of the rig. It's probably not a fair comparison to compare this rig to European cars I've had before when it comes to emergency handling. And I also know as far as reliability, this rig would easily beat any of those European beauties. I've used Akebono pads and Centric rotors on those cars without any issues.

 

[gimlithepirate]

Interesting. I have zero noise. I wonder if you have an issue with corrosion or something going on with your guide pins. A lot of folks here are running those pads, centric rotors or both without issues.

I've wondered that too. I actually took them apart and applied break quiet to the backs of the pads to see if that would help, but no love...

Its weird, because I get two or three squeals on first starting driving, and then it usually goes away for the rest of the tirp. If I'm totally stopped for even 5 minutes, it comes back... I've done breaks on 3 different vehicles and this is the first time I've seen something like this happen.

 

[riverwolf]

I'm also thinking of changing my pads and rotors because pads are getting low with 25% left on them. Recently I had to hit the brakes hard after an idiot ran their red light, luckily I missed him by about a yard, but I didn't like how my 4R handled that emergency; it felt like I was in a rocking boat. It's not a pads/rotors issue; possibly the entire brake system is too small for the size of the rig. It's probably not be a fair comparison to compare this rig to European cars I've had before when it comes to emergency handling. And I also know as far as reliability, this rig would easily beat any of those European beauties. I've used Akebono pads and Centric rotors on those cars without any issues.

"Rocking boat". Are you still on the original struts/shocks? They are a wear item. I replaced the factory dampers at around 100k with the popular Bilstein 5100s. Big difference in brake dive. Dampers deteriorate so gradually over time that we seldom notice the change in our daily drivers...just seems like it's always felt this way.

Otherwise, as you said, comparing any SUV to a car is a bit unfair...higher mass and center of gravity being the key factors. All engineering is a balancing act. One possible line of thinking...Bigger brakes require bigger wheels. For off-roading, you want higher profile tires. High profile tires on big wheels significantly raise the center of gravity. Higher center of gravity increases probability of rollover events and associated corporate liability.

Our European cars were also designed to operate legally (potentially) at triple digit speeds. There's much more kinetic energy to convert to heat when stopping from 120 than 65. Hence a typical Audi/BMW that probably has 2/3 the mass of a 4Runner (and a lower CofG) usually comes fitted with bigger rotors standard from the factory.

 

[LOSTR4]

Thank you all for the suggestions...I do need to do some typical maintenance on the 4runner so I may as well flush the brake and power-steering systems too...I will most likely throw some SS brake lines on, new fluid, and some new rotors and pads...worse-case scenario, I spend $500 and it will/should drive like new once again...Thank you all and may your wheels keep spinning freely!

 

[JONBOY345]

Thank you all for the suggestions...I do need to do some typical maintenance on the 4runner so I may as well flush the brake and power-steering systems too...I will most likely throw some SS brake lines on, new fluid, and some new rotors and pads...worse-case scenario, I spend $500 and it will/should drive like new once again...Thank you all and may your wheels keep spinning freely!

I've got the Goodridge extended SS lines and they're awesome. High-quality product.

I'll also second Akebono pads (they manufactured the OEM pads), and double recommend cryo-treated rotors. I don't have them on mine, but I have a buddy that has had them on his truck for 100k miles and they look better than the centric rotors that have been on mine for ~30k.