gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Uhhh used supercharger! :zoom:
Or you could do maintenance... I guess. Sort of important.
Or you could do maintenance... I guess. Sort of important.
Best way to blow $2500 building a '99 Limited?
- Thread starter potatofries
- Start date
My multi-mode was a little bit sticky when I first got mine 5 years ago. To get it to engage while driving, you often have to accelerate a bit, then let off the gas, and you hear the click when it goes in. If that does not work, I've had to pull over to a complete stop, shift to neutral, then to reverse, move five feet, back to neutral, then drive. It'll usually click in somewhere in that process. I think you will not want to turn while it's flashing as it seems to bind up the drivetrain. Do all those things in a straight line only to get it to go into AWD.
Mine is no longer sticky and goes in and out perfectly every time. I just make sure to engage it once a month and it's good.
If it won't go, that indicates there is an issue. I believe it's usually either a vacuum line or an electronic actuator. I did have a vacuum line replaced on mine and I think that point is when mine became perfect. I had a ton of maintenance done in that outing though. Maybe someone here can link to a troubleshooting thread of the 4wd system. Should turn up in a search on here I bet.
BayAreaT4R
New member
I too have a '99 Limited. I'll follow this. Thanks for starting this thread.
potatofries
Member
Update:
Have decided to do the OME shocks and springs. But in the interim, I've taken the advice of many on this thread and done some routine maintenance. So far have done the following:
Still to do:
Thanks again to all who suggested maintenance before the fun stuff. Has actually been fun (absent stuck nuts) getting to know the truck a bit better. My OME shocks and springs come in a couple weeks. Hoping it also fixes the scary clunking sound that sometimes occurs at low speed. Mostly pulling out of parking spaces. Then tires. Meanwhile, keeping an eye out for a roof rack on CL.
Have decided to do the OME shocks and springs. But in the interim, I've taken the advice of many on this thread and done some routine maintenance. So far have done the following:
- PCV valve
- Drained and refilled front and rear differentials with Amsoil
- Drained and refilled transfer case with Amsoil
- Replaced air filter
- Replaced fuel filter (after 10 days of daily liquid wrench on engine side fuel line nut)
- Cleaned MAF filter
- New spark plugs and wires
- Washed and ceramic waxed
Still to do:
- Replace radiator
- Replace lower ball joints
- Sway bar bushings
- What else am I missing?
Thanks again to all who suggested maintenance before the fun stuff. Has actually been fun (absent stuck nuts) getting to know the truck a bit better. My OME shocks and springs come in a couple weeks. Hoping it also fixes the scary clunking sound that sometimes occurs at low speed. Mostly pulling out of parking spaces. Then tires. Meanwhile, keeping an eye out for a roof rack on CL.
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Endlessblockades
Senior Member
I don't know much but I can tell you this from personal experience: If you have mystery clunks, no matter how ominous they sound, It's always a good idea to check the sway bar end links. if the bushings look suspect at all, get a new set of end links. They are inexpensive and a very good idea to do with a lift anyway. People generally get a set about an inch longer than stock to go along with a +/-2" inch suspension lift. This places the sway bar at a better angle to do its job post-lift. Usually more likely the culprit than the sway bar bushings on the frame, but have a look at those, too. There are many threads here about end links covering options from putting a pair of stock 3rd gen fronts on your rear sway bar and a pair of stock 2nd gen rears on the front.... up to trick adjustable forged-ball sets like these from a T4R.ORG forum member.
potatofries
Member
I ordered the energy suspension bushings 26mm. Are those not going to work if I’m doing the 2” OME lift (less since my ‘99 limited is tall springs already)?
Do you mean the front sway bar bushing set part number 8.5141? That will be fine for bushings for your front sway bar and front sway bar end links. What [MENTION=373697]Endlessblockades[/MENTION] is talking about is running extended end links with a lift which doesn't have anything to do with the end link bushings.
potatofries
Member
Yes that's what I meant. Thank you for clarifying. Will look into the extended end links.
cl4Rk
Member
I got you: Absalom's Cookie Cutter 4runner Builds - New and Updated!
I'd add to his list: if you're going with a lift that is 2" or higher than stock ride height, add [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION] 's Panhard Correction Kit, and consider longer sway bar end links.
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I believe the intent of extended links is to have the swaybar arms as close to parallel to the ground when the vehicle is at rest. I know that to be the case for performance car applications and don't see why it would be different for the T4R. Obviously you also do not want binding or unnecessary forces when the suspension is at full droop/compression. Full droop is more likely than full compression.
I'm running OME 881/890 and ran the MStudt end links for sale on here. Good pieces though the OEM 3rd gen/2nd gen combo discussed is likely cheaper. Two other notes on the lift is the diff drop which is debated on here frequently and extending the rear brake lines/bracket. The shop that installed mine just added an extension to where the center brake line meets the rear axle housing. It essentially just extends the bracket an inch or two higher to not stress the line at full droop.
As to your other maintenance items, I'd want to know if that clunking is a swaybar or something else. I agree that swaybars and their end links make more noise than you'd expect if they're just slightly loose. However, I'd want to know if my LBJ has any play or anything else. For LBJ's, I can't believe I'm saying this, but I'd buy them from a dealer to make sure you don't get ripped off. There's been threads here and elsewhere about fake OEM parts becoming more and more prominent. An LBJ could cost you your rig and/or your life.
The radiator replacement is usually done to prevent the pink milkshake from destroying the transmission. Also pretty key but won't kill you.
Endlessblockades
Senior Member
Would you be able to post a photo of the extended brake line bracket? I'd like to make something like that (unless there is something reasonable available from a US fab shop). Thanks!
potatofries
Member
Ordered the LBJs from a Toyota dealer. Should be here soon. OME shocks and springs due to arrive shortly.
Had a failed smog test which took some of my time. Was Cat monitor not ready (all emissions were fine). Had driven about 200 miles since battery disconnect so was surprised monitor wasn't ready. Decided to try Cataclean and followed the instructions. Literally 15 miles later my OBD says Cat monitor is ready. Could just be coincidence, but I'm pretty shocked.
Had a failed smog test which took some of my time. Was Cat monitor not ready (all emissions were fine). Had driven about 200 miles since battery disconnect so was surprised monitor wasn't ready. Decided to try Cataclean and followed the instructions. Literally 15 miles later my OBD says Cat monitor is ready. Could just be coincidence, but I'm pretty shocked.
