Best way to strip and paint rusted/peeling sport hood?

[DustyRoads]

I scored this sport hood for almost nothing since the paint was so horrible. Figured I'd try my luck out at painting this thing or at least stripping it down and prepping for a nice coat of green paint.

I've watched and read a lot of things but i'm still not sure what the best approach is for something like this? Acid, wire wheel, sand paper, dual action sander, etc. It has some surface rust in places where the paint has worn all the way through. Maybe about a roughly 8"x12" light surface rust along with the nasty clear coat and faded paint.

If any savvy body work people out there have some tips, lets here them! I'm entirely new to this type of work.

Really hoping this works because.....HOOOOD SCOOOOP! It'll go well with front mud flaps.

Thanks for any insights, fellow t4r lovers.

 

[Brilliant]

Soda blast, then DA sander, wear gloves, wash it down

http://www.bodyshopbusiness.com/the-most-common-paint-prep-mistakes-and-how-to-avoid-them/

 

[DustyRoads]

Soda blast, then DA sander, wear gloves, wash it down

The Most Common Paint Prep Mistakes...and How to Avoid Them - Body Shop Business

Gonna look into the soda blast. Thanks for the tips!

 

[IBallEngineer]

If you soda blast, what do you need the DA for?

Ok, the problem here is no "easy" answer, only lots of good ones. Personally I love to soda blast, but cost/time constraints keep me from that most of the time. DA will clean most of it up, might need 80 grit in some spots, but I'd try to stay with 150 or 120 till all the fugly paint is gone and some light primer is left. In the rusty area a wire wheel won't hurt, might have to use a metal prep then some POR15 type material to seal it. If you end up with a lot of bare metal, like mostly bare, you should use an etching primer before anything. Just a light coat, followed by some high build primer. If you have any rough spots, hit them with 150 by hand and reprimer. Then smooth it up with 400 wet or dry, and it should be pretty good. I like to finish with 5 or 600 just before paint.

 

[DustyRoads]

If you soda blast, what do you need the DA for?

Ok, the problem here is no "easy" answer, only lots of good ones. Personally I love to soda blast, but cost/time constraints keep me from that most of the time. DA will clean most of it up, might need 80 grit in some spots, but I'd try to stay with 150 or 120 till all the fugly paint is gone and some light primer is left. In the rusty area a wire wheel won't hurt, might have to use a metal prep then some POR15 type material to seal it. If you end up with a lot of bare metal, like mostly bare, you should use an etching primer before anything. Just a light coat, followed by some high build primer. If you have any rough spots, hit them with 150 by hand and reprimer. Then smooth it up with 400 wet or dry, and it should be pretty good. I like to finish with 5 or 600 just before paint.

This is some great detailed info. Exactly what I was hoping for. Thanks!

Can i use a rust converter in a rattle can or another alternative in place of the por15 to seal it? I don't have any por15 on hand, need oddly small amount, never used it,etc... Do they sell it in small amounts?

Ever heard of these homemade soda blasting setups? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9P0bJprelac

Probably have to pic up the cheap HF or wally world DA sander. It'll prob get rarely used so not wanting to drop big coin.

 

[UnderFire]

This is some great detailed info. Exactly what I was hoping for. Thanks!

Can i use a rust converter in a rattle can or another alternative in place of the por15 to seal it? I don't have any por15 on hand, need oddly small amount, never used it,etc... Do they sell it in small amounts?

Ever heard of these homemade soda blasting setups? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9P0bJprelac

Probably have to pic up the cheap HF or wally world DA sander. It'll prob get rarely used so not wanting to drop big coin.

The cheap Porter Cable ones that Lowe's sells are pretty good for the money, only like 40$ I think.

 

[DustyRoads]

The cheap Porter Cable ones that Lowe's sells are pretty good for the money, only like 40$ I think.

Hot tip! Thanks for taking the time.

 

[Brilliant]

If you soda blast, what do you need the DA for?

adhesion, soda leaves it fairly smooth.

I'd take it in to get finished. You'd want the fenders blended anyway.

 

[DustyRoads]

adhesion, soda leaves it fairly smooth.

I'd take it in to get finished. You'd want the fenders blended anyway.

Ideally I'd get the hood, roof, and fenders painted/blended. That or an entire paint job but the passenger side is 2/3 new paint after some body work. Driver's side is decent enough to leave alone. I could get away with fixing the peeling clear coat on the trouble areas mentioned. Some day I suppose. Fixing the clear coat on the roof seems iffy when i could buy a full length rack, some lights, and rhino line the roof! Functional money spent if I go that route, eh? It's a 96 so it's not the bell of the ball by any means. Functional is paramount at this point. But i couldn't resist a hood scooper on the cheap... I'm guilty. lol

 

[gamefreakgc]

Did that come off a 4Runner? Interesting color, I'm not familiar with it. Or was it off a Tacoma?

 

[DustyRoads]

Did that come off a 4Runner? Interesting color, I'm not familiar with it. Or was it off a Tacoma?

Yep, 4runner. You see the odd blue one around sometimes. Not sure if this was a factory blue or not.

 

[MStudt]

adhesion, soda leaves it fairly smooth.

I'd take it in to get finished. You'd want the fenders blended anyway.

If you use a soda with a bicarb you won't need to DA sand it. It'll leave it smooth enough that a good coat of primer will cover everything up just fine. It also making a huge difference if you're using water or not.

 

[IBallEngineer]

If you use a soda with a bicarb you won't need to DA sand it. It'll leave it smooth enough that a good coat of primer will cover everything up just fine. It also making a huge difference if you're using water or not.

Exactly!

To the OP, at some point this project ceases to be economical to DIY. If you pay to have it soda blasted, buy tools, sand paper, POR, more sand paper, self etch primer, high build primer, more sand paper. Well shoot the body shop isn't going to charge you THAT much to prep it.

As for using the DA after soda, sure you can use it, but if you just want the mechanical bond you can scuff it with a scotch brite. And really, if it's bare metal you need etching primer anyway for a good bond. I know sometimes it seems like I just talk the talk, but I walked the autobody walk for over 30 years. So I have done or seen a few things in my short career.

 

[DustyRoads]

Whoa! I guess i'm trendy with the rusted hood. I guess i got a great deal on a pre modded hood! gross....

Can't wait to get this thing cleaned up and I'm dreaming of making it semi functional for air flow or maybe a small LED bar to fill the center.