Bilstein 5100 Install on 5th Gen - Safe for novice?

[Jhalko]

I just think I'm somewhere in-between - not the guy who can rebuild an engine but I can change the oil (with instructions). I'm not adverse to doing it myself, but would rather bite the bullet and pay someone else if there are lots of opportunities to cause permanent damage to my 4runner because I've never done it before.

I replaced my Upper Control Arms and was pretty darn proud of myself for doing it. I find since I don't have experience doing things it takes me like ten times as long as someone with experience. I paid to have my suspension installed, the price (not cheap at all) I was charged was reasonable given how much faster they got the truck done and I knew it would be done right. Pick and choose your battles...

 

[4RunnerAU]

I see the irony- but then, I didn't need instructions to make the tutorial...:becky:

Eh, that's honestly not the irony. Just kinda funny you came off like "ha! You needed instructions just to change your oil?" when you are literally the same guy who created the oil change write up because so many people on here couldn't figure it out themselves because the 4R oil change is kinda tricky compared to other vehicles.

Here's the deal- problems always arise- you need experience to overcome these problems/issues, or you will wind up with a stressful time during the install.





If you have done suspension work before, it will be relatively easy and fun!

Ya, that's a valid point....thanks for feedback.

 

[meltdown]

It's up to you to decide, but I'll add that $300-400 is a fair price for the install.

 

[4RunnerAU]

I replaced my Upper Control Arms and was pretty darn proud of myself for doing it. I find since I don't have experience doing things it takes me like ten times as long as someone with experience. I paid to have my suspension installed, the price (not cheap at all) I was charged was reasonable given how much faster they got the truck done and I knew it would be done right. Pick and choose your battles...

Yeah...same way. hence this thread. I am the guy who hates paying anyone to do something I could do myself but I also don't want to get in over my head.

I am leaning towards paying $50 for a suspension shop to handle the spring compression part.

 

[Antman]

Eh, that's honestly not the irony. Just kinda funny you came off like "ha! You needed instructions just to change your oil?" when you are literally the same guy who created the oil change write up because so many people on here couldn't figure it out themselves because the 4R oil change is kinda tricky compared to other vehicles.

Trust me dude, I get it. Good luck.

 

[ST1FLER]

I aint skeered..... I paid to have mine installed by a professional. certain things I just dont do. Suspension and gears. now on my Jeeps.... I do everything on my own

 

[eblamble3]

Yeah...same way. hence this thread. I am the guy who hates paying anyone to do something I could do myself but I also don't want to get in over my head.

I am leaning towards paying $50 for a suspension shop to handle the spring compression part.

I recently installed 6112s and 5160s having never done any suspension work before so it is doable for sure. As long as you have the tools you need and take your time it isn't that bad. I had the front coilovers preassembled so that made things a lot easier/safer (I would pay the nominal fee to have a shop assemble them in your situation). I did the install over the course of two days and about 7 hours total 100% by-myself.

Areas that slowed me down:
1. Getting the wheels off...they were seized and a real PITA to get off
2. Tightening the top nut on the rear shocks. I didn't have a ratcheting wrench large enough and had to use a crescent wrench 1/2 turn at a time
3. Loosening the top nut on OEM rear shocks. You really have to grip the shock body to keep the whole assembly from turning.
4. Maneuvering the front coilovers in and out of the shock tower. I disconnected the swaybar and the two bolts around the castle nut on the LCA to give me some room to work with.
5. Getting the bottom bolt through the front coilovers. This is a real PITA if you are by yourself and have to work the prybar, line up the shock, and push the bolt through all at the same time.

 

[hikenbike]

I can almost guarantee you will get 30% through it and wish you'd never started. Do yourself a favor and pay to have a qualified, reputable shop do the work.

 

[Antman]

I recently installed 6112s and 5160s having never done any suspension work before so it is doable for sure. As long as you have the tools you need and take your time it isn't that bad. I had the front coilovers preassembled so that made things a lot easier/safer (I would pay the nominal fee to have a shop assemble them in your situation). I did the install over the course of two days and about 7 hours total 100% by-myself.

Areas that slowed me down:
1. Getting the wheels off...they were seized and a real PITA to get off

Let the wheel down pretty hard without wheel bolts on- works every time.

2. Tightening the top nut on the rear shocks. I didn't have a ratcheting wrench large enough and had to use a crescent wrench 1/2 turn at a time

Bend the pinch weld out a little bit and then bend it back when your done- plenty of room to work.

3. Loosening the top nut on OEM rear shocks. You really have to grip the shock body to keep the whole assembly from turning.

They are trash anyway so grip the shock body with big channelock pliers.

4. Maneuvering the front coilovers in and out of the shock tower. I disconnected the swaybar and the two bolts around the castle nut on the LCA to give me some room to work with.
5. Getting the bottom bolt through the front coilovers. This is a real PITA if you are by yourself and have to work the prybar, line up the shock, and push the bolt through all at the same time.

Both of these- mark the LCA cam bolts position, loosen them and everything moves easily/freely. When it's together line up the marks and tighten to get you to the alignment shop.

Tips above in bold...

Just a few of the hundreds of little things that become second nature with experience. First time it's time consuming/frustrating. 2nd on- it's a walk in the park.

 

[catrains]

old old part removal spray the hardware to be removed a week before with a rust penetrating lube.

on the wheel removal stuck to the hubs loosen the wheel lugs and drive vehicle fwd/rev a few times .


to avoid stuck wheel , place a small amount of anti seize on the hub where it corrodes to the alum rim. wire brush all the corrosion before doing this and installing the wheels. you only need a very thin amount like spray paint coating. thickness .

keep the lube off any wheel mounting thread fastener.

 

[4RunnerAU]

Trust me dude, I get it. Good luck.

Just a quick update. Thanks to everyone for their responses, especially [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION]. No idea how valuable that information was. I decided to go ahead and pay to have it installed...it's tough to swallow my pride, but I think Antman was right in regards to needing someone with experience in case something inevitably goes wrong, so thanks PAL. I owe you one.*:hat:

On a side note, I'm actually having a difficult time finding a place to install the Bilsteins. Most places are refusing installs for parts that I didn't purchase through them. If I can't find a place, I may be forced to do the install...however i'm consulting my local 4Runner FB group first...

 

[MattAK]

Just a quick update. Thanks to everyone for their responses, especially [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION]. No idea how valuable that information was. I decided to go ahead and pay to have it installed...it's tough to swallow my pride, but I think Antman was right in regards to needing someone with experience in case something inevitably goes wrong, so thanks PAL. I owe you one.*:hat:

On a side note, I'm actually having a difficult time finding a place to install the Bilsteins. Most places are refusing installs for parts that I didn't purchase through them. If I can't find a place, I may be forced to do the install...however i'm consulting my local 4Runner FB group first...

Place here where I had both my '01 and my '16 done charges $20/hour more on the shop rate for bringing in your own parts vs. buying from them. Lame thing is they don't even sell 5100's at all. Hope you find something!

 

[4RunnerAU]

Quick update - got the Bilsteins installed by 4WP in Norcross, GA. Guys were really nice and charged me $357 for install and alignment. I felt that was a fair price. Ended up with the 1.75" setting. Very happy. Looks great, love the handling and it just feels more like an ORV. Will upload some pics of the rig soon - needs a good wash. I attached the alignment specs.

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[Hooda914]

Quick update - got the Bilsteins installed by 4WP in Norcross, GA. Guys were really nice and charged me $357 for install and alignment. I felt that was a fair price. Ended up with the 1.75" setting. Very happy. Looks great, love the handling and it just feels more like an ORV. Will upload some pics of the rig soon - needs a good wash. I attached the alignment specs.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

planning on doing the exact same, be sure to post after pictures! and $357 for install and alignment is way good!

 

[gbarr]

Just an FYI.I was in the same quandry as you as to where to put my 5100's. I didn't want to raise the front any more than the .85 so I installed them in the second groove which was supposted to be .85 raise to the front, in reallity it leveled the front with the back which was a little over 1.75 inches which is not what I wanted at all. The billys did improve the ride and brake dip though.

 

[craaaazzy]

Quick update - got the Bilsteins installed by 4WP in Norcross, GA. Guys were really nice and charged me $357 for install and alignment. I felt that was a fair price. Ended up with the 1.75" setting. Very happy. Looks great, love the handling and it just feels more like an ORV. Will upload some pics of the rig soon - needs a good wash. I attached the alignment specs.

saving this in case i ever get a lift and need a place to install it. thx!

 

[4RunnerAU]

saving this in case i ever get a lift and need a place to install it. thx!

Yep - would definitely recommend them. Just remember to look at the entire price and not balk at how much they charge for the alignment. However, I must say that they nailed the alignment - it's handling really well.

FYI - they won't work on parts that you didn't order from them. So keep that in mind. Fortunately, my wife had purchased my bilsteins through 4WP so I lucked out.

 

[RainyDayRunner]

Please help!!!

I decided to do Bilstein 5100s all the way around on stock springs. Front set at 1.75 with a 1.5" spacer in the rear. I just finished putting on the front and I ended up with 5" of lift!! Holy freak! It looks crazy. I don't think it is going to settle down that much when I finish the back. What could be causing this?

Yes, I put the spring seat on correctly. My springs were a beast to compress. I installed everything according to the factory specs. I was expecting 2" at most.

Distance pre-install from center hub to bottom of my fender = 19.5" and 20". Now they measure 25.25 and 25.5". At this rate, I am going to need to drop my differential and buy new sway arms. Not only that, I'll have to lift the back like 3.5 and get some much bigger tires. This is NOT what I want.

I bought this used. Could it be possible that it has much stiffer front springs than stock so they are staying fully extended?

 

[JSparky]

I decided to do Bilstein 5100s all the way around on stock springs. Front set at 1.75 with a 1.5" spacer in the rear. I just finished putting on the front and I ended up with 5" of lift!! Holy freak! It looks crazy. I don't think it is going to settle down that much when I finish the back. What could be causing this?

Yes, I put the spring seat on correctly. My springs were a beast to compress. I installed everything according to the factory specs. I was expecting 2" at most.

Distance pre-install from center hub to bottom of my fender = 19.5" and 20". Now they measure 25.25 and 25.5". At this rate, I am going to need to drop my differential and buy new sway arms. Not only that, I'll have to lift the back like 3.5 and get some much bigger tires. This is NOT what I want.

I bought this used. Could it be possible that it has much stiffer front springs than stock so they are staying fully extended?

Hey man, sounds like you've got some serious issues with that front suspension. Instead of reviving this old thread I'd start your own, titled appropriately, and give us some detailed pictures of the struts. If you can pull any part numbers off the struts that would be great too, then we can help get you some legit advice on how to proceed.

 

[davem]

I bought 5100's for the wifes 4Runner and my local offroad shop is doing the install for $275 includes alignment. Ill get some pics up after its done. Thinking of Timbrens for when towing bike trailer. Had Airlift bags on our '04 Runner and she didn't care for it making the ride a little rougher.