Bilstein hd install

[CSmith4Runnin]

Hola new member here and I need some help. I am installing new bilstein hd in the rear of my 96 runner. I was wondering how tight the top nut should be. As you all know I can't really see what I'm doing because of the location of the top nut. I tighten it down with a ratchet, but it only gets so tight (seems only a little tighter than finger tight) then it just starts to spin the bolt (the shock itself) when I try to ratchet it down tighter. Seems like you can put an allen wrench on the top of the bolt to stop it from spinning. Is that what you're suppose to do? The instructions say tighten it to 19 ft/lbs but I can't really get a torque wrench up there because of the little space. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Its my first time doing the shocks so let me know if you need any more info. Sorry for the essay haha

 

[LDForget]

proper way is to use an allen key on a torque wrench and a wrench on the nut. You'll effectively be spinning the shock around inside the bolt to get to the proper torque.

 

[PitbullRescuer]

It's easy, pull the blue rubber boot down, hold the shaft of the shock with channel locks (but line them with something so you don't score the shaft) and then torque the nut down.

 

[CSmith4Runnin]

is there a special type of allen torque wrench? can you get it at autozone or pepboys. Thanks for the reply sorry total noob here. Just seems like theres no room up there for a torque wrench

 

[LDForget]

It's easy, pull the blue rubber boot down, hold the shaft of the shock with channel locks (but line them with something so you don't score the shaft) and then torque the nut down.

Although that way works, you cant get the proper torque applied. IDK how much room to get to it there is on the 4runner, as i havent done it before on that vehicle.

 

[PitbullRescuer]

I've used this method a few times on 4Runners, never an issue.

 

[CSmith4Runnin]

thanks pitbull. I'll try that tomorrow

 

[CSmith4Runnin]

Another question... What is the proper order of the bushings and washers on top. It doesn't seems there is room to use channel locks on the shaft unless I miss understood you. Sorry totally confused still. how do you pull down the dust cover? It only seems to go down so far.

 

[PitbullRescuer]

Best bet for lining the channel locks is one of those rubber things you use for opening jars. It'll hold the shaft without slipping and the channel locks won't gouge the shaft.

Also, hold it right under the shock mount or as close to it as you can get. That way if you do gouge it, at least it's at the top which will rarely be compressed. Then just slide the dust boot right back up.

When you move the boot, it'll resist, don't worry, just pull straight down.

 

[CSmith4Runnin]

ok thanks for the advice. Just to clarify it seems like the top metal washer on the dust boot would break if I pulled it down. You're talking about the silver metal rod when referring to the shaft not the yellow part right?

 

[PitbullRescuer]

Correct. The metal washer won't break, just pull down on it, it will spereate. And it'll go back together too.

 

[CSmith4Runnin]

Awesome! Thanks for all your help

 

[Drcoffee]

The Bilsteins are easy to install. I like to use a gear wrench. Its a box end wrench with a rachet built in. If you wrench on cars, you need these wrenches. Slip the gear wrench on the nut and the hex key in the top. Forget the torque specs. Watch the bushings. When they flatten out to the same diameter as the steel washers, you are done.

And to remove the old ones, SAWZALL the piston rod below the upper mount. Get the blade between the bushng and the frame mount. You may need a propane torch on the lower mounting bolt at the nut but try penetrating oil first. But heat is the fastest way to loosen rusted bolts. Just dont torch the shock body.

 

[Drcoffee]

Did you get your shocks installed? It took me about 2 hours this morning to do mine. What took the most time was cutting out the old shocks. There's only one approach to get the sawzall in to cut the shaft between the washers under the mount. It helped to remove the bottom mount and push the shock outward for a better angle with the saw. After that, the only struggle was tightening the cushions at the top. What I did was insert the allen key in the top and used an open end wrench to turn the nut. The allen key will stop against the frame so you only need one hand to get at the nut. There's no way to torque it to any measurement. Just go until the cushion flattens out to match the metal washers diameter. I haven't driven it yet so I don't know if it feels any better but the old ones were severely rusted and probably original. Bilstein didn't offer black shocks, only yellow. The yellow was too much for me. I used some black Duplicolor caliper spray paint to make them less obvious.

The sequence of washers and cusions is from bottom --> top:
1) steel washer cupped up
2) cushion
3) steel washer cupped down
FRAME MOUNT
4) cushion
5) silver washer cupped down
6) lock nut

 

[Volley]

Can someone comment on what the ride would feel like if the shocks aren't tight enough? Thinking I may not have mine tight enough. I'm getting a lot of side to side rocking motion over road imperfections since my lift, not like your typical body roll and I'm trying to diagnose the potential source(s).

 

[shadow247]

Grab the shock and see if there is any play. If you cant move them with your hand then I doubt they are loose. You could try having someone bounce up and down on the rear bumper and see if you have any play in the upper shock mount.