Black engine oil after every 3K mile oil change..

You'd be best off searching BITOG and sending the oil off for analysis.

What oil did you use during your last oil change? I'm not sure about the Super but the synthetic version of the high mileage is considered one of the best oils for cleaning so a dirty oil is to be expected.

Why use the EP filter if you're changing the oil so often?

I used same oil in all 3 oil changes. I've used EP filter because i was initially thinking about changing the filter every other oil change and bought two but ended up deciding to do it at every 3K intervals. Now I have a Toyota filter since I've used up the Mobile 1 EP filters. Thanks for bringing up the BITOG analysis, I still have the old oil so this might be something I can do. Cheers!
 
[MENTION=136650]DK327[/MENTION]

Look into Blackstone Labs

They do oil analysis. Send you a kit to put some oil in and and you send it back to them. They then test it for pretty much anything you can imagine and give you a print out. You'll know then if there are any contaminants at high levels that you should address.

You'll want to do this during an oil change as they want oil that has been driven with for 3k-5k miles. So, order the test ahead of time if you do it.
 
Last edited:
You guys would laugh at my island oil changes. I change the oil every 4 months like clock work. In that time I barely manage to put 1200 miles on the clock. Castrol Dino is the most often stocked brand here. The oil goes in as a nice light amber color and is drained out as a pure carbon black color.
 
Why are you guys changing the oil at 3k? Oil is SO much better than it was 40 years ago. Shoot, most new cars & trucks are 10k or more.

I suppose that if you want to throw money away with the outdated idea that it's "cheap insurance", then rock on. As others have said, a proper analysis is the best way to determine oil condition.
 
Why are you guys changing the oil at 3k? Oil is SO much better than it was 40 years ago. Shoot, most new cars & trucks are 10k or more.

I suppose that if you want to throw money away with the outdated idea that it's "cheap insurance", then rock on. As others have said, a proper analysis is the best way to determine oil condition.

JiffyLube in Sparks, NV advised me that the factory oil change interval on my '99 was every 5K miles. FWIW
 
Why are you guys changing the oil at 3k? Oil is SO much better than it was 40 years ago. Shoot, most new cars & trucks are 10k or more.

I suppose that if you want to throw money away with the outdated idea that it's "cheap insurance", then rock on. As others have said, a proper analysis is the best way to determine oil condition.

In my mind, if the old oil is black @ 3K miles, I don't have confidence that it's doing it's job properly anymore, not to mention the vehicle definitely drives smoother after the oil change so that's all the evidence I need. I think driving around with same oil for 10K miles on engine that has 240K miles would be...ill advised.
 
It's what the instructions on the seafoam can say to do (one ounce per quart of motor oil) last 300 hundred miles but I only do 200, I've done it on this runner over 140,000 miles every 5k with zero issues - purrs like a kitten. But hey I can see how some think it's scary (so don't do it)! I just put it out there as a way for OP to clean up engine faster than just oil changes but to each their own. :cowboy:

It's superstition for me in high mileage vehicles, I have nightmares of oil-starving the bearings.
 
It IS my primary vehicle but as you stated it might be due to constant short trips around town. I work less than 10 mins from home so by the time engine reaches 190F I'm already at work, this might take a toll on oil faster than a long trip I'd imagine... Good point!

Short trips are hard on an automobile. I'd recommend going for a 30 minute spirited drive, known as an Italian tune up, two or three times a month at least.:yo:
 
In my mind, if the old oil is black @ 3K miles, I don't have confidence that it's doing it's job properly anymore, not to mention the vehicle definitely drives smoother after the oil change so that's all the evidence I need. I think driving around with same oil for 10K miles on engine that has 240K miles would be...ill advised.

Or black because the oil is doing its job.

And why can't a modern day oil perform as advertised in a 240,000 mile vehicle?
-----------

As seafoam goes, pieces of sludge coming off and blocking the pickup is a possibility. I tend to push Mobile 1 HM synthetic due to its detergent package and cleaning over a longer amount of time.
 
My formula has been Castrol Syntec, now Castrol Edge, and Toyota oil filter every 5K miles since it was new. After 275K miles, the old oil comes out pretty dark but never burnt smelling. I also never need to top off the oil between changes. I'll stay away from all the extra additives...seems the cash I spent on full synthetic over the years has kept it purring nicely enough. The large number of 3rd Gen 4Runners approaching 300K miles is proof that our engines will tolerate a number of maintenance methods...as long as we keep up with basic servicing over time.
 
What should oil smell like after it's been inside engine ? It's definitely not going to smell like brand new. I'd think little burnt smell is normal. And do you change it after you drove it to thin it out ? Or it's been sitting and then change it ?
 
What should oil smell like after it's been inside engine ? It's definitely not going to smell like brand new. I'd think little burnt smell is normal. And do you change it after you drove it to thin it out ? Or it's been sitting and then change it ?

Used oil will be dark from carbon and should smell slightly from fuel and exhaust. Excessive fuel smell coupled with thin oil usually indicates a ring-seal problem.

Warmer oil will drain faster and easier than cold oil. Let the vehicle sit for 20-30 mins after driving so most all oil runs down to the pan before changing it but be weary, everything will be hot and hard to handle - like the filter.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 
Used oil will be dark from carbon and should smell slightly from fuel and exhaust. Excessive fuel smell coupled with thin oil usually indicates a ring-seal problem.

Warmer oil will drain faster and easier than cold oil. Let the vehicle sit for 20-30 mins after driving so most all oil runs down to the pan before changing it but be weary, everything will be hot and hard to handle - like the filter.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

I understand. Last time I changed my oil. After driving. It pouring out like water lol.
 
You know a person has too much time when they smell the oil on the dipstick.
Or they are used to driving turbocharged cars that can have fuel dilution issues... :tongue1:

Black oil can mean a lot of things... I would expect on a 240k mile motor that might have a questionable history that it is mostly cleaning action getting built-up deposits into suspension.

My 275k mile motor doesn't really make oil dark after 5k, but the inside is pretty clean as it has always had 5k oil changes its whole life...

-Charlie
 
So even when you do an oil change the oil in the oil drain pan isn't black?
Not even close. Its a medium brown. But this is the inside of the engine about 4k miles ago:

4B37935E-1CF0-4871-B9F3-5559CA33B6C5_zpsqlskfiic.jpg~original


There just isn't much to be cleaning out of there. Of course, if you just look right at the pan its black - the pan is black, the oil is brown... New oil poured into the pan would look black. A dab of it on a paper/shop towel shows a medium brown.

Clean engine + good oil = doesn't look like much
Dirty engine + good oil = dark oil quickly due to cleaning
Lots of short drives in cold weather = dark oil quickly due to harsh conditions

-Charlie
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,317
Messages
3,554,128
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top