Block oil cooler

[Poorboy64]

Getting ready to do a complete front & rear suspension refresh, Thinking of replacing the oil cooler coolant hoses and O-rings, wile I'm right there. If any one has done this... Does the oil need to be drained? (cooler is higher than the pan) Does the coolant need to be drained? If you don't drain radiator do you just loose the coolant in the block?
Has Timmy done a video on this? Haven't found one. Most all the work I have done on my truck has been with the help of Tim's video's & this forum.... Thanks!

Bill

 

[JZiggy]

This is for a 3RZ but probably pretty similar.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3125252-post174.html

 

[alumarine]

Rad has to be drained. Oil doesn't.

If I was going to do it again without a lift, I wouldn't change the oil cooler oring unless it was leaking.
I found it to be a royal pain to keep the oring in place lying on my back.
Although if you're doing a suspension refresh that might provide better access.

The hoses aren't too bad.

 

[firemanj92]

Getting ready to do a complete front & rear suspension refresh, Thinking of replacing the oil cooler coolant hoses and O-rings, wile I'm right there. If any one has done this... Does the oil need to be drained? (cooler is higher than the pan) Does the coolant need to be drained? If you don't drain radiator do you just loose the coolant in the block?
Has Timmy done a video on this? Haven't found one. Most all the work I have done on my truck has been with the help of Tim's video's & this forum.... Thanks!

Bill

Rad has to be drained. Oil doesn't.

If I was going to do it again without a lift, I wouldn't change the oil cooler oring unless it was leaking.
I found it to be a royal pain to keep the oring in place lying on my back.
Although if you're doing a suspension refresh that might provide better access.

The hoses aren't too bad.

I did one of our 98 and 00 T4R 4wd's and did not drain the oil/coolant in either case. It is messier though but I didn't lose too much of either to make it easier, you need either long reach or angled pliers or a hose-clamp tool. I also pinched off my radiator hoses.

Tools needed: long reach angled pliers or hose clamp pliers, an extra gallon of anti-freeze, qt of oil (both just in case), a pry bar or long slotted screwdriver. Lot's of towels, 24mm for oil cooler bolt.
Also, It would be a easier while doing the timing belt job and a wheel removed. I did both T4R's while only removing front wheel. Took about 1-2hrs. The clamps are the hardest to deal with in tight quarters. I changed both all o-rings/seals because I was chasing down slow leaks and already in there.

Faye Hadley did a replacement https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i9dHgWbiDSs&feature=emb_logo
Hope this helps. -J

 

[Poorboy64]

Thanks!
You clamped both top and bottom radiator hoses? And able to complete the job going through the wheel well?
I have new seals and hoses so I might as well replace them when I have the suspension out, the hoses feel pretty bad I’m guessing from when The VCG were leaking,
Get this and the suspension done almost everything will be new, I should be good for another 200K

Thanks,
Bill

 

[davidch]

As many have noted in this and previous threads on this subject, it's the clamps that really complicate this job. Consider modifying all or some of the oil cooler hose clamps before reassembly. It makes the job much easier.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3286909-post11.html

I am currently doing the same job - new o-rings and hoses on an engine's oil cooler - an a rather different engine, the inline-5 on a '94 Acura Vigor. That job is even more difficult, access-wise, than a 5VZ-FE.

Unless one removes the entire intake system, plenum and manifold, which I did. This bizarre engine/drive-train also runs engine coolant through its differential, which sits to the left of the oil pan. You never saw so many coolant hoses - at least eleven - all snaking around under the plenum.

 

[Poorboy64]

Man that sounds like to many coolant lines, possible coolant leaks in time!
Looking at what diagrams/schematics I could find on this job it looks to me that all the coolant is on the other side of the thermostat only what is in the block?
And the cooler sits above the oil pan, So is it really necessary to drain the radiator? Oil? Taking a look this afternoon it looks as if it is accessible through the wheel well and the upper control arm off and strung & mount out of the way maybe quite a bit of room to access.

Thanks,

 

[Poorboy64]

Did this job yesterday what a royal PITA! Especially with my arthritic hands,
Removed the altanator and all except the front hose at the thermostat I went through the wheel well, I think the only way with 4wd,
With right at 200k the hoses were bad! O-rings not so much, I would really hate to have a hose leak here while on the road, even with draining the radiator I lost easily a gallon of coolant, cold engine. It would most definitely puke all your coolant quickly,
On higher mileage trucks I would definitely check these hoses,

Bill

 

[19963.4lsr5]

While my engine was on the engine stand I installed new hoses, clamps and o-ring to avoid future issues

Edit: plus I soaked the cooler in acetone for a week and then made a flushing jig and used mineral spirits to flush it out. There was all kinds of coked oil crunchies in there.


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