Brake Booster/Accumulator/Master Cylinder Assembly Replacement

eng208

eng208

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UPDATE!!!!!! Brake Booster/Accumulator/Master Cylinder Assembly Replacement

:wave:Well, I have searched this several times over the last month since our 07 failed while driving. It seems none of the threads ever have any resolution. They are like a soap opera. Each thread dealing with the accumulator replacement or booster assembly just ...quits. I have yet to see one with the procedure or results of someone that changed this out themselves.

I got a quote from the local Toyota guru (not a dealership) but a stealer never the less, for 3100 dollars. I can buy the part from ToyotaPartsOverstock.com for 1778 and get 300 back from Toyota through a good customer coupon I have. The question I have, can I do this in my shop. I am very capable as far as mechanical ability goes and have no doubt I can swap the parts and get everything put back together. I just wander if it is going to be drivable afterwards with the talk of the bleeding process needing a tech scan tool to properly bleed the brakes. I have to do this soon. My wife is driving the 99 4runner that I fortunately refused to sale after buying my new Ram Cummins earlier this year. It has nearly 200K on it and I just can't let that truck go.

Please, someone give me something here. :crutch:
 
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eng208 said:
Well, I have searched this several times over the last month since our 07 failed while driving. It seems none of the threads ever have any resolution. They are like a soap opera. Each thread dealing with the accumulator replacement or booster assembly just ...quits. I have yet to see one with the procedure or results of someone that changed this out themselves.

I got a quote from the local Toyota guru (not a dealership) but a stealer never the less, for 3100 dollars. I can buy the part from ToyotaPartsOverstock.com for 1778 and get 300 back from Toyota through a good customer coupon I have. The question I have, can I do this in my shop. I am very capable as far as mechanical ability goes and have no doubt I can swap the parts and get everything put back together. I just wander if it is going to be drivable afterwards with the talk of the bleeding process needing a tech scan tool to properly bleed the brakes. I have to do this soon. My wife is driving the 99 4runner that I fortunately refused to sale after buying my new Ram Cummins earlier this year. It has nearly 200K on it and I just can't let that truck go.

Please, someone give me something here. :crutch:
Click to expand...

This sounds like a question for [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] as he is a certified Toyota technician and may be kind enough to chime in. I did some research on this a month ago and came up with the same results: nobody has done a write up, or any resolution for that matter, regarding their accumulator/master cylinder. I am currently NOT in your shoes, thank goodness, but I may be some day. And when that day comes, I will first look for a used bmc and attempt the install myself. I have bled the brakes on my '05 several times with no issues, but never due to a bmc install. Believe me, $3,100.00 would be a tough chunk to swallow just for a bmc.... And to think that I was *****ing about the $1k I paid for the a/c evaporator replacement. Please keep us updated on what your progress/resolution is.
 
I have been in touch with Black Works through PM. He assisted me with the part number to look for and a link to one. I have used that part number to locate a new Toyota part for much less than originally quoted and also contacted Toyota for the 300 good customer discount rebate. So, for that, I very much appreciate his assistance. He has also stated the tech scan tool should be used to activate the ABS solenoids for proper bleeding. I am just trying to get something from some of the folks that have gone through this to see if it is feasible to change it out. Even if I have to take it to the dealership to bleed the brakes for 100.00 I think I will still come out paying about 1500 for the master cylinder set up and replacing it myself. Total I should have about 1900 in it including the 100.00 I had to pay the other shop to tell me what I already knew and give me a quote:puke: I just can't pay labor for 1200 dollars on a three hour job.
 
Update!!!!

I finally got enough saved up to order the Master cylinder assembly from Toyota. Saved a good bit of money going through EB Toyota.
The part came in within four days of ordering and was just what I needed. I called to verify the part number since I was dealing with that kind of money and the parts guy was excellent. Highly recommend them and will be using them from now on for Toyota parts.

I installed the master cylinder/brake accumulator assembly this evening. It was incredibly easy. It took me about an hour to remove and replace the old one and bleed the brakes. I could not believe how easy swapping the assembly out was. It literally took about 20 minutes to do the job, the rest was bleeding the brakes. I had my wife helping me who is a might fine helper. She was ready to get her truck back. We didn't have any problems and I took it for a test drive. The VSC and traction control are disabled until I can get the YAW sensor adjusted on the computer, but, other than that, it is excellent. I saved about 1600 dollars doing this myself and it took less than an hour and a half, unless you figure in time looking for the best deal on line for the part. And I have already done that for you that need it.:cheers:
Man I would be so mad if I paid someone 1600 dollars extra to do this. On the other hand I will gladly do this for anyone that will pay me even half of that.:wof:
 
eng208 said:
I finally got enough saved up to order the Master cylinder assembly from Toyota. Saved a good bit of money going through EB Toyota.
The part came in within four days of ordering and was just what I needed. I called to verify the part number since I was dealing with that kind of money and the parts guy was excellent. Highly recommend them and will be using them from now on for Toyota parts.

I installed the master cylinder/brake accumulator assembly this evening. It was incredibly easy. It took me about an hour to remove and replace the old one and bleed the brakes. I could not believe how easy swapping the assembly out was. It literally took about 20 minutes to do the job, the rest was bleeding the brakes. I had my wife helping me who is a might fine helper. She was ready to get her truck back. We didn't have any problems and I took it for a test drive. The VSC and traction control are disabled until I can get the YAW sensor adjusted on the computer, but, other than that, it is excellent. I saved about 1600 dollars doing this myself and it took less than an hour and a half, unless you figure in time looking for the best deal on line for the part. And I have already done that for you that need it.:cheers:
Man I would be so mad if I paid someone 1600 dollars extra to do this. On the other hand I will gladly do this for anyone that will pay me even half of that.:wof:
Click to expand...

Make sure you do a write up of the process so everyone can share in on the goods! :)
 
Wow they wanted to charge you $1600 in labor!? I just did one on a customer's vehicle and even including "rebuild time" (to transfer over the accumulator pump and motor) labor was only like 3.4hrs.
 
BlackWorksInc said:
Wow they wanted to charge you $1600 in labor!? I just did one on a customer's vehicle and even including "rebuild time" (to transfer over the accumulator pump and motor) labor was only like 3.4hrs.
Click to expand...
It wasn't exactly 1600 in "labor". It was 1600 difference between what the quote was and what I did it for. The quote was 3199. The shop was going to charge full retail for the part which is 2370. The rest was to be labor and "shop supplies".
I was able to get the part for 1570 and spent 8 bucks on brake fluid. I still have to get the yaw sensor adjusted. I think that is why the VSC light is on. I know it has to be set. Would you agree this is why the light is on?
 
eng208 said:
It wasn't exactly 1600 in "labor". It was 1600 difference between what the quote was and what I did it for. The quote was 3199. The shop was going to charge full retail for the part which is 2370. The rest was to be labor and "shop supplies".
I was able to get the part for 1570 and spent 8 bucks on brake fluid. I still have to get the yaw sensor adjusted. I think that is why the VSC light is on. I know it has to be set. Would you agree this is why the light is on?
Click to expand...

Yes when replacing the unit you need to relearn the Zero Point Calibration.
 
eng208 said:
I was able to get the part for 1570 and spent 8 bucks on brake fluid. I still have to get the yaw sensor adjusted. I think that is why the VSC light is on. I know it has to be set. Would you agree this is why the light is on?
Click to expand...

Is the part you got for your model year 4Runner or later? I still have a burning curiosity if a unit from a 2008-2009 4WD would enable the VSC-TRAC disable that is inactive on pin 43 of the 2007 V6 4WD VSC ECU.

I know there are hacks to do this, but the engineer in me prefers the way the engineers at Toyota chose to do it.
 
Mission complete!

The truck is finished! I had two recalls that needed to be cleared so I decided to take it to the dealership 40 miles away. The brakes are great and I haven't had any issues with them, just the VSC and Traction control lightswere on and disabled. I called early in the week and spoke to the service writer. He didn't know what I was talking about, I'm sure they don't get many people doing this job on their own. He checked with a tech and came back and told me 100.00 to initialize the sensor. It would cost me that much to borrow a computer and this is something I haven't done and don't know anyone that has, so I let them do it. The problem is I don't know what they did to initialize it and if their is a way to do it without a computer. I do know the truck is right now, VSC and Traction control work. I tried them:wow2: Sliding on grass, the truck corrects the slide.Af

I am just very fortunate I still have my 99 4Runner. I was able to let my wife drive it and I drove the new tow vehicle for a couple of months while I figured this thing out. Total pay out on this is-----

$1564.00 Master Cylinder
$ 29.00 Shipping
$ 8.00 Brake fluid
$ 100.00 Labor for sensor
$ 88.00 given to the first "shop" to tell me what I already told them and quote me 3200.00 for job.

$1789 and I sent in the receipts to get 300.00 back from Toyota as a courtesy assistance, good customer gesture. :biggrin2::biggrin2::biggrin2:


I also took the downtime to clean the interior, buff the exterior, and do some inspecting of the vehicle. I also flushed the cooling system and replaced with Toyota coolant. I have used the Toyota since the 90's and I don't think there is any better, although it is expensive. I also flushed the 99 last night.

I will do a write up, but there really is not much to write up. This is a very easy job, just takes the nerve to do it.
 
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Hi,

I'm going to be faced with this soon. I tried the above link and get a blank page. Any chance you could repair or reload it?

Thanks!
BB
 
I have a 2001 4runner complete master assembly for sale. Good working condition. Way cheaper than Toyota!!! PM me if interested
 
booster sound

Are there any audio files of what the booster pump should sound like when pressurizing the system? Should it be audible when you turn the ignition on?
 
63a16p said:
Are there any audio files of what the booster pump should sound like when pressurizing the system? Should it be audible when you turn the ignition on?
Click to expand...

If you listen closely you should hear a slight buzzing noise(small electric motor running) when you turn on the ignition and after every few brake pedal depressions when the engine is running, this buzzing should only continue for approximately 10 to 20 second as the motor builds up the pressure and then stops, it shouldn't be continuous, only coming on after the pressure drops.
 
No brakes. Total assembly or part problem?

Hi everyone. New member. 2004 SR5 V8

Lost all brakes. VBS, Brake, engine, trac control lights, + audible alarm.

I have researched and thought it may be the electric ABS pump motor since I do not hear it running when turning on the vehicle.

Pulled the assembly and pulled the pump motor.

Put 12v on the motor and ran like a charm. Pump turned easily by hand.

Any suggestions?

Just didn't want to start replacing parts without diagnosing the root cause.


THX !!
 
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