Brake Issues. Please Help

R

rpete

New member
Hey all I️ have a question that has baffled my local Toyota dealership and what seems like a major issue to me. For about the past year when applying the brakes for a prolonged period of time I️ consistently loose pressure until the pedal bottoms out, usually takes about 2-3 minutes, however if I️ ever release the brakes and reapply it always has full pressure again. They said they are at the point of needing to just start replacing things trial and error style. I’m mainly worried it will get worse or just go poof someday. No visual leaks, is always consistent and always happening, and there is always more pressure if I️ release and reapply. Any suggestions or anyone had this issue before?


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Assuming your calipers are not leaking, the brakes lines are ok and not swelled, its your master cylinder leaking internally.
 
Have you recently replaced one of the cv axles? I had this exact issue and it ended up being the axle nut wasn't torqued all of the way.
 
Brian3676 said:
Assuming your calipers are not leaking, the brakes lines are ok and not swelled, its your master cylinder leaking internally.
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So far that’s what everything I️ am finding seems to be saying. And when my dealer said that it could be 2-3 grand I️ about died.


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You can get a good used one on Ebay for around $400 then have an independant shop install it. Probzbly have $800-$900 in it when done.
 
waypoint said:
You should get a refund from the shop that told you this.
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Please do explain, as it was myself who diagnosed and fixed it. If the nut isn't properly torqued, the entire hub and rotor can move when you press on the brake. I suppose it could have been coincidence, but the nut definitely wasn't at 180 ft lb when I checked it.
 
dta1984 said:
Have you recently replaced one of the cv axles? I had this exact issue and it ended up being the axle nut wasn't torqued all of the way.
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Its rare when sitting alone reading things on the internet makes me literally LOL, but this one is a gem.

Did they per chance explain how an improperly torqued axle nut would causing brake pedal issues???
 
dta1984 said:
Please do explain, as it was myself who diagnosed and fixed it. If the nut isn't properly torqued, the entire hub and rotor can move when you press on the brake. I suppose it could have been coincidence, but the nut definitely wasn't at 180 ft lb when I checked it.
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The four bolts holding the hub and bearing assembly to the spindle locate the hub.

The 6 lugs holding the wheel to the hub locate the rotor.

Sell your tools and buy books.
 
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dta1984 said:
Please do explain, as it was myself who diagnosed and fixed it. If the nut isn't properly torqued, the entire hub and rotor can move when you press on the brake. I suppose it could have been coincidence, but the nut definitely wasn't at 180 ft lb when I checked it.
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Do you know what hydraulic means?

How would movement of the 'entire hub' affect the brake fluid & pressure in a closed system?
 
waypoint said:
The four bolts holding the hub and bearing assembly to the spindle locate the hub.

The 6 lugs holding the wheel to the hub locate the rotor.

Sell your tools and buy books.
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You're right, I did say it may have just been a coincidence. It was. It's been several years, but I took everything apart and put it back together and it was fine. The axle nut was the only thing I remember being off.
 
dta1984 said:
You're right, I did say it may have just been a coincidence. It was. It's been several years, but I took everything apart and put it back together and it was fine. The axle nut was the only thing I remember being off.
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I appreciate your input and thanks for the advice. I️ haven’t done anything with my cv’s though. Super good for you though that you got yours too work! Sounds like mine is an expensive new manifold repair.


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rpete said:
I appreciate your input and thanks for the advice. I️ haven’t done anything with my cv’s though. Super good for you though that you got yours too work! Sounds like mine is an expensive new manifold repair.


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So, as a couple of other guys have said, based on what you posted, my prime suspect would be the brake master cylinder. Go ahead and have that tested to get it diagnosed properly. Its not a terribly labor intensive repair, but I imagine you will pay handsomely for a new OEM unit.
 
the brake booster, ABS computer system, hydrolic brake assist, brake master cylinder, and ABS pump is all built into one complete unit on the firewall.

while parts can be removed and replaced, they are not sold separately so the only way to fix a problem with any of those systems is to replace the whole unit or, if you can find a shop to do it, have yours rebuilt/repaired using used parts at a cost of around $400 and it wont have any warranty since its all used stuff, or the smart thing to do is just buy a complete working used unit for around $400 which will have a short warranty of about 30 days in most cases since its still a used part, or buy the oem part brand new that costs around $3,500. as far as i know there is no remanufactured or aftermarket part
 
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keakar said:
the brake booster, ABS computer system, hydrolic brake assist, brake master cylinder, and ABS pump is all built into one complete unit on the firewall.

while parts can be removed and replaced, they are not sold separately so the only way to fix a problem with any of those systems is to replace the whole unit or, if you can find a shop to do it, have yours rebuilt/repaired using used parts at a cost of around $400 and it wont have any warranty since its all used stuff, or the smart thing to do is just buy a complete working used unit for around $400 which will have a short warranty of about 30 days in most cases since its still a used part, or buy the oem part brand new that costs around $3,500. as far as i know there is no remanufactured or aftermarket part
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Though still expesive he can get a new Toyota OEM complete master cylinder assembly for his 2006 SR5 for under $2000.

https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem...er&Year=2006&Submodel=&Filter=()&Location=pd:,
 
Thanks everyone for the help here is the update to my story.
So my dealer said they wanted to bleed the brakes and start guessing and checking as i stated. So i told them I️ would like to pick it up as is and save some more money for it. After that and after i just showed up to pick it up because i got tired of waiting to hear back, the service writer says his master tech is the one who has been working on it and that the master tech has the same year runner and if he plays with the brake at a stop he can get his peddle to bottom out as well so he wouldn’t worry about putting any more money into it. He says that now after they told me that they wanted to start just guessing and check replacing things. i wish i could just find a shop around here that new what they were doing and could communicate.


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rpete said:
Thanks everyone for the help here is the update to my story.
So my dealer said they wanted to bleed the brakes and start guessing and checking as i stated. So i told them I️ would like to pick it up as is and save some more money for it. After that and after i just showed up to pick it up because i got tired of waiting to hear back, the service writer says his master tech is the one who has been working on it and that the master tech has the same year runner and if he plays with the brake at a stop he can get his peddle to bottom out as well so he wouldn’t worry about putting any more money into it. He says that now after they told me that they wanted to start just guessing and check replacing things. i wish i could just find a shop around here that new what they were doing and could communicate.


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a known home test for a leaking master cylinder assy.

1. with the ignition on, depress and hold the brake pedal for about 2 minutes -- if it slowly sinks to the floor after a while..then you got a leaking mc assy

2. do u hear a slight wooossh when u depress the brake pedal?
3. touch the mc pump..if its very hot after driving for less than 1hr..then its working overtime = you have a leak.
4. with the ignition on observe the time interval between the mc assy electric motor buzzing
 
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