Brake Job: Level of Difficulty/cost?

[fluid15]

I couldn't find any info using the Search function, so please point me in the right direction if I missed it (I believe in searching before asking).

I just bought a '97 Limited (3 days ago) and dropped it off at the Dealer while I left town. I was told it needs the following, which will cost $1300 for parts & labor:

1. Front brakes: $450
a. rotors
b. pads

2. Rear brakes: $850
a. drums
b. e-brake kit for both sides

3. Fluid bleeding (easy): not sure how this fit into the $1300

Is #1 as easy as bolting on/off or is there more to it?
Is the e-brake kit replacement challenging? They told me it is ~ 20 pieces, which doesn't mean it's difficult if it's all nuts/bolts.

I appreciate any input on pricing (cheaper source for parts??) and info on how any of you have done it yourself. TIA.

 

[bflooks]

i replaced the front brakes myself. replaced rotors with cross-drilled brembo's (before you off road guys attack...i know! this is only for a primarily road driven truck, as the dirt tends to stay in the holes), and PBR 4X4 brake pads. total cost was about $200 after delivery. i love the set up. have had it for about 30k now, and they feel great! no break dust, and trust me...they stop! as far as the rear drums, i would search online for them. i cant remember the link, but i was shocked by how cheap the drums were to replace. but are you sure you need to replace the drums, or just the shoes? doesn't make much sense to me that you would need an enitire brake system re-build. how many miles? i have 115k on my rears, and there is still about 1/3 of life left in them. hopefully pat161 can chime in as he was thinking about doing brakes soon, and he put about 120k on his tacome without doing brakes as well. then again...could be because we have 5 spd. too.

 

[sharp4runr]

Dude, you're getting taken to the cleaners!!!!!

Buy a Haynes or Chiltons manual and learn how to do it yourself! Disc brakes are a piece of cake to work on. You'll save a ton on parts/labor and you'll have the satisfaction of doing it yourself...

 

[bflooks]

i completely agree. if you have never done it yourself, just give yourself an afternoon, and do one side at a time. very very simple to do. if i recall, there is a decent write up in the tech section over on 4x4wire. but i am not 100% sure of that. anyhow...you are foolish if you waste the money to have it done for you. just remember to pop the cap off the brake fluid reservoir so the air can escape when you compress the calipers.

 

[fluid15]

I'll do the brakes myself

Thanks guys for input - those are the type of responses I was hoping for. I'll definitely try it myself. My guess was the fronts would be more straightforward but wasn't sure of drums.

I won't be returning home for another 1-2 weeks but will update this thread with my feedback after giving it a try.

*Edit: ADDED QUESTION: Since I'm going to replace my brakes, what upgrades are recommended if I choose to do this? My use will be primarily on-road with occasional off-road for weekend excursions, etc.

 

[PupaScoopa]

On a scale of 1 to 10 (1 being rotating tires, 10 being transmission overhaul) a brake job is from a 2 to no more than a 3. I can't believe you were quoted so much for it.

Get the details on what they're doing with the e-brake work. I can't imagine it being more than changing the "Y" cable and springs/associated hardware on the rear brakes.

Unless you want enhanced performance from better than OE pads, drilled/slotted rotors or stainless steel braided brake lines; there isn't much else to consider upgrading during a brake job.

 

[fluid15]

Looked at brakes today ...

I decided to start with just the fronts to see how that would effect the way it drives. I looked at the discs and they don't look like they need to be replaced. Pads have about 1/4" left and don't squeal yet so I just did a bleed job on all 4 wheels. I'll be taking it out later to see what effect it has (currently, it requires a deep push on the pedal to get any braking).

Pic of rotor below ..... doesn't look bad to me.

 

[PupaScoopa]

Measure the thickness of those old rotors, this should give you an idea of how much life was left in them. The service manual states:

Std Thickness 22.0mm
Min thickness 20mm (when you should replace)

The pad lining min thickness is 1mm, so you still have plenty of life in them (std thickness is 11.5mm).

 

[SteveM]

If the brakes start pulsating after you've replaced the pads, they'll need to be turned. I usually just scuff them with some emery cloth unless they are grooved, or have a ridge at the top.

Measuring thickness with a micrometer is a good idea too.

edit: as far as pad wear, a good rule of thumb is that when the pad material reaches the thickness of the backing plate (or less) it's time to replace them.