brake job

D

doubleA

New member
so i have never replaced pads or rotors by myself. all of my mechanical knowledge/ability is from what my dad taught me as a kid. i dont have much in the way of tools, but I am finally now able to go buy some (jack, stands...etc).

i have a Haynes, replacing the pads and rotors seems straight forward... anything you guys run into that I should worry about? like the rotor being stuck to the hub from rust? and I am not going to do the tundra upgrade as much as I want to...

edit: i guess I am doubting I can get the brakes done, bec my wife and my dad (lives far away now) told me to take it to a shop. i really dont want to, i want to learn. all motivation and tips are appreciated!
 
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Take your time, get some good quality mechanix gloves or similar. DONT USE WD40 if you have a stuck bolt. PB blaster is okay, but use it sparingly.

Do you understand how to bleed brakes? Its always a good idea to after changing the pads.
 
I have done a brake bleed before, but it was a long time ago. If I am just changing out the fronts, do I have to start the at the rear? I remember reading a thread on here on the order of bleeding brakes on our t4r's.
 
You can absolutely do it! The biggest thing I would say is this- take your time, and leave yourself plenty of time to get it done. Have a friend join you if you can, even if it's just so you can take his car to the parts store for more parts or tools. Use the money you saved to buy a few tools- don't feel like you NEED new stuff. The pawn shops around me have great deals on basic mechanics tools (jackstands, jacks, wrenches, sockets, etc.)
And besides- you've got us! What more could you ask for? :D

Where are you located at? Maybe there's somebody on here that could give you a hand-
 
i live in the hartford, ct area... right now I only have a basic socket kit, I need to purchase a few more things. this site is great, everyone on here is always so helpful.
 
I think you definitely have this under control. Like the others said, grab a friend if possible. You never know when you're going to have to run back to the autoparts store. Also plan to use the majority of the day to do this. That way, if you have a question, you can post and someone will reply on here.
 
doubleA said:
i live in the hartford, ct area... right now I only have a basic socket kit, I need to purchase a few more things. this site is great, everyone on here is always so helpful.
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Let me know if you get really stuck, i could take a trip up there on a weekend or something, I'm 50 miles from hartford. I would go to your local Harbor Frieght and pick up 2 "3 ton" jackstands, get a jack from costco if you are a member (costco has lifetime sastifaction on all non electronic product, basically lifetime warranty), if not grab a jack from sears, and get a toolset from sears as well. You will also need a 3" or 4" C clamp from sears. Buy all of these things will probably cost you the amount you would pay someone to do a brake job, but now you have all of these tools to do a bunch of other jobs.
 
JohnsD90 said:
Let me know if you get really stuck, i could take a trip up there on a weekend or something, I'm 50 miles from hartford. I would go to your local Harbor Frieght and pick up 2 "3 ton" jackstands, get a jack from costco if you are a member (costco has lifetime sastifaction on all non electronic product, basically lifetime warranty), if not grab a jack from sears, and get a toolset from sears as well. You will also need a 3" or 4" C clamp from sears. Buy all of these things will probably cost you the amount you would pay someone to do a brake job, but now you have all of these tools to do a bunch of other jobs.
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I was thinking the same... would cost the same to have someone else do the job, but I want to learn...plus I will be able to do other maintenance items down the line.

I read the brake bleed sticky and should I bother getting the motive power bleeder? Does anyone use that?
 
doubleA said:
I was thinking the same... would cost the same to have someone else do the job, but I want to learn...plus I will be able to do other maintenance items down the line.

I read the brake bleed sticky and should I bother getting the motive power bleeder? Does anyone use that?
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I didn't, my dad bled mine while i kept depressing the brakes.
 
Some tips from when I did front rotors myself as a mechanical n00b as well...

1. If the rotor is stuck on there and you have the replacement, someone remarked hit it with a block of wood. Well if you're replacing the rotor and it's really stuck on there, beat the crap out of it at like 3 then 6 o'clock. Feels weird to beat on something that hard but that's what it took for me. Hammer right to the rotor, skipped the wood. A dozen wacks and it finally came off.

2. I'd have never gotten the calipers off without a this nice 18v driver my buddy loaned me, my cheap ratchets would have never gotten it done.

3. Press those pistons in BEFORE taking the caliper off :)
 
Why even take the caliper all the way off? Just hang it using a coat hanger and then you have no reason to bleed the brakes.
 
tbst said:
Why even take the caliper all the way off? Just hang it using a coat hanger and then you have no reason to bleed the brakes.
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that is what I was hoping to do... i watched a video of some dude changing the rotors/pads and he used a bungee cord.

do i have to worry about the brake fluid resevoir over flowing when I push the pads back?
 
doubleA said:
that is what I was hoping to do... i watched a video of some dude changing the rotors/pads and he used a bungee cord.

do i have to worry about the brake fluid resevoir over flowing when I push the pads back?
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No.

There is a metal clip that holds the rubber line to the UCA. Detach that clip by using a screwdriver and a small hammer and pound the clip up. It is very intuitive. If it breaks, as mine did, drill a smaller new hole through that arm and reattach it using a random bolt. If it doesn't break, you are golden. Take the caliper off and hang it with your new slack in the line from the rubber line being free.

You will likely need a 6" C clamp (around $8 at Advance or something of the like). Push your pistons back in.

Be careful taking the calipers off, I had a caliper bolt snap off on me. Use a breaker bar if you have to. If you don't live in the rust belt you should be fine. Also, the last person who installed my calipers used red locktite, so that is where the majority of that problem came from.

A word of advice is take pictures of the calipers before you take anything apart.

And take your time. Even if it takes 3 hrs, at least you learned something.
 
I have replaced the rotors and pads twice on mine and never bled or removed calipers. My rotors just fall off once i loosen the caliper bolts. Very easy to do bro. Make sure you have a cheater bar for the caliper bolts.
 
ocman40 said:
I have replaced the rotors and pads twice on mine and never bled or removed calipers. My rotors just fall off once i loosen the caliper bolts. Very easy to do bro. Make sure you have a cheater bar for the caliper bolts.
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what is a cheater bar. i def need one i think... cheaters always prosper (and hopefully change brakes more quickly too)
 
doubleA said:
what is a cheater bar. i def need one i think... cheaters always prosper (and hopefully change brakes more quickly too)
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images
 
Cheater bar is just a long bar you either put around the socket wrench like in the Durk's pic, or it just looks like a really long handled socket wrench.

Also, don't bother with the motive power kit. You can get speed bleeders cheap ($7 per wheel) and do it all by yourself in just a few minutes, or you can have a friend work the pedal for you. I have done it both and prefer the speed bleeders. Easy peasy, super cheapy. Just monitor the fluid level in the reservoir to make sure you don't suck air into the lines.
 
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