Cam bolt seems off

S

SteelStacks

New member
Had 5100s installed front and back yesterday. Front set at 2.5 with a daystar 1.5 spacer in rear. Looked under the truck today and noticed that my passenger side front cam bolt seems in too far towards the engine. Drivers side looks normal. Should the passenger side NOT be like this?

Passenger side

8d9df68a155113bc82f81ff4dfd653e8.jpg


Driver side

20a59d423a49b2b7b15ff647acc3b720.jpg



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SteelStacks said:
Had 5100s installed front and back yesterday. Front set at 2.5 with a daystar 1.5 spacer in rear. Looked under the truck today and noticed that my passenger side front cam bolt seems in too far towards the engine. Drivers side looks normal. Should the passenger side NOT be like this?

Passenger side

8d9df68a155113bc82f81ff4dfd653e8.jpg


Driver side

20a59d423a49b2b7b15ff647acc3b720.jpg


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Click to expand...

Yes, your cam bolt washer was flattened most likely from the alignment....

And your CV boot is blown.
 
Yeah I saw the CV boots blown and was thinking that was from the lift because that grease wasn't there before I brought it in.

So does the flattened cam bolt washer affect my alignment? Because he shop did the alignment and said it was ok? Do I need a new washer and do I need to redo the alignment?


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SteelStacks said:
Yeah I saw the CV boots blown and was thinking that was from the lift because that grease wasn't there before I brought it in.

So does the flattened cam bolt washer affect my alignment? Because he shop did the alignment and said it was ok? Do I need a new washer and do I need to redo the alignment?


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Click to expand...

Another alignment fail. The cam is on top of the side lip that the cam presses against when you turn the cam to the left and right. This is what moves your LCA in and out which, combined with the same movement on the back of the LCA, changes your camber and caster readings (also changes your toe but that is the final adjustment with the outer tie rods) Hopefully that lip isn't flattened against the LCA. I had a shop do the same thing and had to pry and hammer the lip out then grab it with a pair of large vice grips and bend it out the best I could.
Generally, your cams should be mirror images of each other, meaning they should either be pointing toward each other or pointing away from each other, side to side. They might be a little different to compensate for road crown but unless somethings bent, it should not be a big difference.
Looks like they are the cams on the rear of the LCA? If so, the one side out of place is pushing the rear of the LCA out - ALOT - and the drivers side is pulled in, which is backwards. The only way this vehicle is somewhat going straight down the road is if the front cams are turned the opposite direction, which completely defeats the purpose of the cam adjusters.

It's a complete alignment fail

Check the condition of your LCA bushings also.
 
It's the cams on the front of the LCA if that makes a difference. So do I need to get this realigned ASAP?


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You need to remove the cam bolt and bend the ears back straight (the other side is smashed a bit, too), and have it re-aligned. If you can keep the entire frame covered in CV grease, it will help a lot with the rust.
 
I plan on wire brushing the rust when it gets warmer out and then spraying with rustoleum or por 15. It's not as bad as it looks. Mostly just surface rust. I did the bang a hammer on it test.

So I guess I should take it to a different shop then also for the new alignment?

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I agree with everybody else that the cam bolt needs to be removed and the tab bent back into place if possible and re-aligned. You may have to grind off the rust and put a couple tack welds on the alignment tab to hold it in place.

It may just be how the pic is but the A-arm pocket in the first pic looks cracked where it's welded to the frame.
 
So was finally able to take my truck back to the same alignment shop and they bent the tab back and re did the alignment. Asked them for a printout after the alignment was done and they said their printer was broken. Seems like this is a normal thing with most alignment shops and it's very frustrating!

The steering wheel is straight again and it drives straight and the cam bolts match on both passenger and drivers sides. Wheels also look straight but can't be 100% sure with no printout. Should I spend more money and take it to another alignment shop that can promise me a printout?

I will be getting new wheels and Duratracs soon so I could do another alignment after I get the new wheels put on. My question is if it's necessary or not?


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You need to have a bead run behind the tabs because yours have weakened. They are just going to do the same thing while driving probably. That or get the Total Chaos Kit and have it done right.
 
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