Cam Tab Gusset Install?

[4rcybr]

Looks like I need to remove my current cam tab gussets and install some new ones.

From what I've read it is a pretty time consuming thing, so I'm trying to figure out if I can avoid having a shop do it. I've gone ahead and ordered this kit while I try to figure the rest out: https://www.metaltech4x4.com/total-...03-4runner-lower-control-arm-cam-tab-gussets/

The only writeup I've found is this one: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/total-chaos-lca-cam-tab-gussets-install.362440/

Anything else I need to be aware of? Any idea how bad of an idea it is for this to be my first welding project? (I'm thinking that for the cost of having a shop do it, I can buy my own MIG welding kit... Is that a really stupid idea?)

Anything else I should be doing when I have the whole front disassembled? Any other parts I should be putting in or checking?

 

[having fun]

Yeah, after you weld the side supports to the plates before installing to the frame, take a cam and make sure it fits in the slot and can turn it, might have to shave the side if they welded on a little off.

Drilling the spot welds where taking too long, I took a air chisel and came from a few different angles to remove, some just popped of some took more effort. Might have to grind a little left over metal from the spot welds.

And definitely mount and tighten like in the instructions and tack a left and right side of plate that you can get to, to grind if not located in the right spot and check you get a full turn.

Parts, possible cam parts if frozen.
I would do a poly bushing upgrade to LCA while there off, and ball joints.




Hope you can weld, thing with tabs are, not getting proper penetration and brake the welds. Arms will move on you.


EDIT... After looking at the write up you posted, probably another reason I used a air chisel to remove the gussets is due to NOT having to remove the RACK.

 

[rickashay]

I used a step bit to drill the spot welds out. Once they were out I used a chisel to pop off the factory ones. I didn't remove the rack and had all 8 of them out in an hour or less.

 

[4rcybr]

Yeah, after you weld the side supports to the plates before installing to the frame, take a cam and make sure it fits in the slot and can turn it, might have to shave the side if they welded on a little off.

Drilling the spot welds where taking too long, I took a air chisel and came from a few different angles to remove, some just popped of some took more effort. Might have to grind a little left over metal from the spot welds.

And definitely mount and tighten like in the instructions and tack a left and right side of plate that you can get to, to grind if not located in the right spot and check you get a full turn.

Parts, possible cam parts if frozen.
I would do a poly bushing upgrade to LCA while there off, and ball joints.

Hope you can weld, thing with tabs are, not getting proper penetration and brake the welds. Arms will move on you.


EDIT... After looking at the write up you posted, probably another reason I used a air chisel to remove the gussets is due to NOT having to remove the RACK.

Hmm. Ball joint is one I hadn't considered. From a bit of looking at threads now, it seems like it is a lot of extra work for that. Still something you'd say is worth it? Also, is Moog-K500017 the correct part number?

I don't have an air chisel (or air anything, actually...) but I'll see what I can borrow.

I should have help with the welding. Otherwise I'll just go slow-there are worse things that could fail than these if I have to redo them.

Anyways, thanks for the tips.

I used a step bit to drill the spot welds out. Once they were out I used a chisel to pop off the factory ones. I didn't remove the rack and had all 8 of them out in an hour or less.

Cool-thanks for the advice.

 

[having fun]

Those will work.
You ask, "Still something you'd say is worth it?".

For 1- probably have a few miles on your existing ones.
2- you already have the LCA tore apart to access them.

If you do get those ones, get a set of 45* angle zerk fittings for them and install before installing in the LCA so you can position the fill side the right direction. Lot easier for greasing them, you'll thank me later for that one.

 

[4rcybr]

Those will work.
You ask, "Still something you'd say is worth it?".

For 1- probably have a few miles on your existing ones.
2- you already have the LCA tore apart to access them.

If you do get those ones, get a set of 45* angle zerk fittings for them and install before installing in the LCA so you can position the fill side the right direction. Lot easier for greasing them, you'll thank me later for that one.

Can you link me the zerk fittings you're referring to?

And I'm looking at these for bushings, seem right? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/whl-w53312/overview/year/2004/make/toyota/model/4runner

 

[having fun]

Can you link me the zerk fittings you're referring to?

And I'm looking at these for bushings, seem right? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/whl-w53312/overview/year/2004/make/toyota/model/4runner

I actually used these "Energy Suspension - 8.3128G" Little easier to contend with.

Zerks, I went to NAPA and sized mine up.

 

[Dirtlife207]

I "needed" to replace mine since the tabs were flattened and didn't know it until I took it in for an alignment and told me they could not align it. I ended up bending the tabs back to a 90* angle and using a MIG, just dropped a weld between the tab and the frame. Sprayed some paint to prevent rust and called it a day. Have had several alignments since with no issues!

I did want to go this route, but didn't want to deal with having to remove the old ones since it was in the winter and it is my DD.

 

[Raid_Runner]

Just had mine done and you gotta make sure you're prepared for the work. I did it with a buddy and those tabs don't always come off nicely. Prepare to drill the spot welds at least some and have a good air hammer to smash em off with. I went with the TC kit and they came out great. Gotta make sure you get enough penetration on your weld cause you don't want these to snap off on you


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[geofox784]

Resurrecting a dead thread to hopefully help someone else who may be researching this in the future. I just did this on my 5th gen and I'm fairly sure it is very similar to the 4th gen. Drilling out the spot welds is a total PITA. I ended up using an angle grinder and an air hammer and had them popped off in about 2 min of work on each tab. I'd would strongly recommend picking up those tools before trying to do this job. It is MUCH easier this way.

I wrote an article on it here: Total Chaos Weld-On LCA Cam Tab Gussets: Install For 5th Gen 4Runner

 

[hinmo24t]

I used a step bit to drill the spot welds out. Once they were out I used a chisel to pop off the factory ones. I didn't remove the rack and had all 8 of them out in an hour or less.

well then. big fan of the cold chisel over here too