Cardan joint in rear driveshaft

kgbdonkey

New member
I got a driveshaft vibration at highway speeds. I replaced the rear universal joint and put grease it the other joints. Got better for awhile. Want to replace the ones in the cardan joint or whatever you call it. Local Stealership says you have to buy the whole thing. Anyone make the u-joints?
 
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I got a driveshaft vibration at highway speeds. I replaced the rear universal joint and put grease it the other joints. Got better for awhile. Want to replace the ones in the cardan joint or whatever you call it. Local Stealership says you have to buy the whole thing. Anyone make the u-joints?

I would drop drive shaft NBD and re-check the joints. new can be bad or fail quickly.
 
If you used oem quality u joint I'm sure the rear joint is still good. The double cardon does not have OEM replacement parts. The only previously available replacement parts are cheap and prone to failure. Last I heard those parts are also no longer sold. You have few options.

1. OEM but ridiculously priced.

2. Custom shaft for $450+ all local shop.

3. Junk yard. This is what I did.

4. Ship to High Angle Drivline-Call Jesse at 530-877-2875. He uses OEM parts from another toyota cardon that works with ours to do a quality build. He specializes in toyota. Quoted me $155 years back.
 
[MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION], ok so i'm hella confused.

I always see these terms thrown around. CV, U-Joint, and cardan/double cardan.

I know the front has 2 CV joints. Front and rear driveshaft have *both* U-Joints and Double Cardan joints then?
 
[MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION], ok so i'm hella confused.

I always see these terms thrown around. CV, U-Joint, and cardan/double cardan.

I know the front has 2 CV joints. Front and rear driveshaft have *both* U-Joints and Double Cardan joints then?

CV's are the double joint axles that connect from the front differential to the wheel hubs. Each CV axle has 2 joints. Constant Velocity Joints and Universal Joints are two totally different things.

The front drive shaft has 2 standard u-joints. One near the transfer case and one near the front differential.

The rear differential has 1 standard u-joint and the double cardan joint. The standard joint is near the rear differential and the double cardan joint is near the transfer case. It's the double cardan joint that's not really serviceable because there's no decent replacement parts available.

Only the rear driveshaft has a double cardan joint.
 
If you used oem quality u joint I'm sure the rear joint is still good. The double cardon does not have OEM replacement parts. The only previously available replacement parts are cheap and prone to failure. Last I heard those parts are also no longer sold. You have few options.

1. OEM but ridiculously priced.

2. Custom shaft for $450+ all local shop.

3. Junk yard. This is what I did.

4. Ship to High Angle Drivline-Call Jesse at 530-877-2875. He uses OEM parts from another toyota cardon that works with ours to do a quality build. He specializes in toyota. Quoted me $155 years back.

I remember you talking about Jesse at High Angle Driveline when I was trying to source parts to possibly rebuild a double cardan joint. If Jesse has found an OEM source for parts, that means if we can find out what part numbers he's using, we could do the rebuild ourselves, right?
 
CV's are the double joint axles that connect from the front differential to the wheel hubs. Each CV axle has 2 joints. Constant Velocity Joints and Universal Joints are two totally different things.

The front drive shaft has 2 standard u-joints. One near the transfer case and one near the front differential.

The rear differential has 1 standard u-joint and the double cardan joint. The standard joint is near the rear differential and the double cardan joint is near the transfer case. It's the double cardan joint that's not really serviceable because there's no decent replacement parts available.

Only the rear driveshaft has a double cardan joint.
All correct - but one extra clarification. A double-cardan joint is a type of CV joint. As are the tulip joints and rzeppa joints found in the front axles.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Constant-velocity_joint

-Charlie
 
I remember you talking about Jesse at High Angle Driveline when I was trying to source parts to possibly rebuild a double cardan joint. If Jesse has found an OEM source for parts, that means if we can find out what part numbers he's using, we could do the rebuild ourselves, right?

That's good thinking right there. I like the idea of replacing the cardon way better than paying Tom wood $500 for a new driveshaft. Unless of course the oem cardon is $500. We need to get to the bottom of this
 
OMG, this has to be the worst thread ever.
Reading this i expected the next post to say replace your rubber bands or something.
Axle shafts are being confused with drive shafts.
And it's a cardan, not cardon or cardigan (that's a type of sweater).

A double cardan joint can be rebuilt in spite of what you read.
It's just 2 standard u-joints (aka cross and bearing or cross and journal) in series housed in a common yoke (not yolk, that's in an egg).
It's just a bit more difficult to do.

CVjoint.jpg


And the Double Cardan is used (usually) on the FRONT DriveShaft at the T-case end, not the rear DS. It's used on the front because of the short length of the Front DS creates too steep an angle for a standard u-joint to work properly w/o binding or accelerated wear. That's why it's not typically needed on a longer Rear DS.

Use of a DC on a DS also requires a different pinion geometry, you can't just change from a standard u-joint to a DC u-joint.

A DC joint is a type of CV joint, as is the Birfield joint used in Toyota front axle shafts (4WD) and the Rzeppa joint (kudos to the guy that new that one).
 
I think the same too. The cardan joint also has 2 U joints similar to the other U joints. Before I got rid of my old rear drive shaft, I dismantle the cardan joint and salvaged the 2 U joints for any future use.

Make sure to catch anything that is going to fall when you remove it, There are some small items inside (between the two U joints).

Front solid axle has a cardan joint in the front due to the flex in the front, but IFS has pretty much non moving front diff so no cardan to the front.
 
OMG, this has to be the worst thread ever.
Reading this i expected the next post to say replace your rubber bands or something.
Axle shafts are being confused with drive shafts.
And it's a cardan, not cardon or cardigan (that's a type of sweater).

A double cardan joint can be rebuilt in spite of what you read.
It's just 2 standard u-joints (aka cross and bearing or cross and journal) in series housed in a common yoke (not yolk, that's in an egg).
It's just a bit more difficult to do.

CVjoint.jpg


And the Double Cardan is used (usually) on the FRONT DriveShaft at the T-case end, not the rear DS. It's used on the front because of the short length of the Front DS creates too steep an angle for a standard u-joint to work properly w/o binding or accelerated wear. That's why it's not typically needed on a longer Rear DS.

Use of a DC on a DS also requires a different pinion geometry, you can't just change from a standard u-joint to a DC u-joint.

A DC joint is a type of CV joint, as is the Birfield joint used in Toyota front axle shafts (4WD) and the Rzeppa joint (kudos to the guy that new that one).

FALSE! My truck, and I'm pretty sure every 4x4 3.4 3rd gen ever made uses a rear double cardOn. I'm going to spell it that way just to bother you. Hehe. And someone can correct me if I'm wrong on this, but the issue is not that you can't rebuild it with a new yoke, but that you can't get an oem yoke any more. I'm not sure who you're referring to about being confused. I've replaced a few of my u joints, and I just mentioned in another thread that ALL of th u joints can be replaced oem. Several members have mentioned that their yoke was the cause of their drive shaft vibrations. I know on 2x4 models there is a rubber piece in the driveshaft. Not on our 4x4s. Anyways . . .
 
A double cardan joint can be rebuilt in spite of what you read.
It's just 2 standard u-joints (aka cross and bearing or cross and journal) in series housed in a common yoke (not yolk, that's in an egg).
It's just a bit more difficult to do.

The issue is the other parts that wear out aren't available.

There are a LOT of vehicles with the DC used in the rear because that's where the short driveshaft is. Short wheelbase Jeeps, fullsize Ford Broncos, etc.
 
OMG, this has to be the worst thread ever.
Reading this i expected the next post to say replace your rubber bands or something.
Axle shafts are being confused with drive shafts.
And it's a cardan, not cardon or cardigan (that's a type of sweater).

A double cardan joint can be rebuilt in spite of what you read.
It's just 2 standard u-joints (aka cross and bearing or cross and journal) in series housed in a common yoke (not yolk, that's in an egg).
It's just a bit more difficult to do.

CVjoint.jpg


And the Double Cardan is used (usually) on the FRONT DriveShaft at the T-case end, not the rear DS. It's used on the front because of the short length of the Front DS creates too steep an angle for a standard u-joint to work properly w/o binding or accelerated wear. That's why it's not typically needed on a longer Rear DS.

Use of a DC on a DS also requires a different pinion geometry, you can't just change from a standard u-joint to a DC u-joint.

A DC joint is a type of CV joint, as is the Birfield joint used in Toyota front axle shafts (4WD) and the Rzeppa joint (kudos to the guy that new that one).

Yes it can be rebuilt but no OEM parts are known. The ball in the center of the cardan joint does not have OEM replacement either. Cheap parts can be found but known to fail prematurely.

Please link me quality part numbers for the double cardan.
 
I remember you talking about Jesse at High Angle Driveline when I was trying to source parts to possibly rebuild a double cardan joint. If Jesse has found an OEM source for parts, that means if we can find out what part numbers he's using, we could do the rebuild ourselves, right?

I asked and he would not supply the part #s. Just did he would do me right if I sent it in.
 
OMG, this has to be the worst thread ever.
Reading this i expected the next post to say replace your rubber bands or something.
Axle shafts are being confused with drive shafts.
And it's a cardan, not cardon or cardigan (that's a type of sweater).

A double cardan joint can be rebuilt in spite of what you read.
It's just 2 standard u-joints (aka cross and bearing or cross and journal) in series housed in a common yoke (not yolk, that's in an egg).
It's just a bit more difficult to do.

CVjoint.jpg


And the Double Cardan is used (usually) on the FRONT DriveShaft at the T-case end, not the rear DS. It's used on the front because of the short length of the Front DS creates too steep an angle for a standard u-joint to work properly w/o binding or accelerated wear. That's why it's not typically needed on a longer Rear DS.

Use of a DC on a DS also requires a different pinion geometry, you can't just change from a standard u-joint to a DC u-joint.

A DC joint is a type of CV joint, as is the Birfield joint used in Toyota front axle shafts (4WD) and the Rzeppa joint (kudos to the guy that new that one).

It sounds like you've rebuilt a double cardan joint before. Care to share the part numbers and where you obtained them? So far, it looks like the only available parts replacements for the CV ball in the middle of the joint are inferior to OEM and don't last.
 
I think the same too. The cardan joint also has 2 U joints similar to the other U joints. Before I got rid of my old rear drive shaft, I dismantle the cardan joint and salvaged the 2 U joints for any future use.

Make sure to catch anything that is going to fall when you remove it, There are some small items inside (between the two U joints).

Front solid axle has a cardan joint in the front due to the flex in the front, but IFS has pretty much non moving front diff so no cardan to the front.

Maybe on the later models, but my 89 is IFS and has a DC joint on the front DS.

My 84 now has a DC joint on the rear DS due to the amount of lift coupled with the shorter DS due to the dual t-cases.
High Angle Driveline custom built me a sweet shaft with an extremely long travel slip joint.
Between the front and rear and a spare rear I have at least $1500 in shafts. Well worth it.
 

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