Changing oil

[Outrider]

I sure would like to get a hold of whoever decided to locate the oil filter where the did, and wring his/her neck.

I've owned a lot of vehicles over the years, some of which were known as having poorly placed oil filters, and I have to say the 4runner takes the cake.

Why, why, why do they locate a filter with the opening pointing down? Not only pointing down, but pointing down over a skidplate, which catches and holds all the oil that pours out after it's loosened. And why do they locate it so you can't get a filter wrench on it and have room to spin the wrench?

I sure am glad this is an occasional use vehicle and I don't have to go through this hell once a month.

Now that I've finished venting, does anyone have any slick ways around this PITA?

 

[Ron Helmuth]

try a 22re sometime....

I feel your frustration. I have about $18K worth of surgical work into my right shoulder -repaired afer trying to get at my 22re filter on my 2nd gen.

Well worth the $10 to pay the dealership to do this- they know the secrets-price when I supply my own oil and filter -it is just not worth my time or effort to attempt this on my 3rd gen.

 

[pat161]

Seriously its not all that hard to get. Cut the wheel hard to the left and go through the wheel well, after pulling the rubber guard down of course. Removing the main skid plate takes 2 minutes and 4 screws and saves the mess you speak of. Buy the filter wrench that goes onto a 3/8 socket and spinning it will be no problem, place a small container under the filter before loosening and you will catch most of the mess. Once you have changed it a few times it will seem simple, after going from a 3rz the the 5vz I was cursing the location, but with the proper technique its not too bad.

 

[MunkeyTX]

I changed mine for the first time this weekend...I had more problems with the poorly designed cup type filter wrench than I did actually removing the filter.

On my 4Runner, I guess the previous owner had done their own oil changes as well, the rubber flap was missing the rear-most clip to hold the flap down; gave you just enough room to slide your hand holding a new oil filter in there.

What I did was drop the skid plates (easy-peasy and lets you also inspect things underneath for problems/damage), place the cup filter wrench on the old filter, connect two 12" 3/8"-ratchet extensions together, slip the extensions into the engine compartment from the driver side wheelwell directly ABOVE the shock/spring/strut mount, which provided a direct line to the hole in the filter wrench. Get it loose, take off the extensions and cup wrench, and spin it off the rest of the way by hand, through the larger hole made by pulling back the rubber flap. I tried snaking the extensions through that same hole, but it was very 'wonky' and I needed two swivel joints to make it work; much easier to just go above the spring.

Install is the reverse of removal, and VIOLA! You've got a new oil filter without oil spilling behind your skids. If I remember right, I positioned the drain pain directly underneath the lower a-arm, and the oil from the filter went straight into it with no other spills.

Trust me, changing the filter is NOTHING compared to changing it on a '99 Cavalier (before the canister type filters). That sum***** is buried down behind the intake, right up against the firewall...I ended up cutting a lot of plastic shielding, and taking off the pass. wheel each time I change the oil on my wifes car; major PITA!

 

[Outrider]

Yeah, I know what you mean. After I cooled down and cleaned all the grease off of me I realized I had the same problem when I bought my Miata, which are also know for being very difficult to do oil changes on. After a few changes, I had a technique down, a couple of special tools made to make it easier, and now it's a piece of cake.

Still, it's a poor design for routine maintenance, but what isn't in modern vehicles? I think it's a combination of bean counters pinching pennies, laziness in design and trying to force customers to go to the dealer for servicing.

 

[MunkeyTX]

Well, I think that it's actually getting better with the use of the canister type of filters; almost too easy to change those.

The easiest vehicle to change the oil on, by far, was my '02 F-250 V-10. Oil filter was facing up, right next to the drain plug with TONS of room. Only needed 10 mins max to change the oil; I miss it

 

[Outrider]

Well, I think that it's actually getting better with the use of the canister type of filters; almost too easy to change those.

The easiest vehicle to change the oil on, by far, was my '02 F-250 V-10. Oil filter was facing up, right next to the drain plug with TONS of room. Only needed 10 mins max to change the oil; I miss it

My easiest oil change vehicle was an '89 Isuzu Trooper. The filter was pointing up on that too, and I could kneel down by the bumper, reach up and remove it without spilling a drop. As tinny and cheap as that vehicle was built, they got the oil change logistics down pat.

 

[Clemsonfan15]

I don't see the point in spending that time and money for the specials tools you need.

I would personally rather take it to a shop to get it done. Much easier.

 

[RonMAIDEN]

Some people don't want to spend $20 letting somebody do something that really isn't hard but if you don't like getting dirty and I admit it is a bit of a hassle then then let somebody else do it but it is easy money for the dealer.

I just hand tighten mine but even a filter wrench only costs a few buck and I can change mine in a half hour and that's worth the money I'd pay the dealer to do it.

 

[Outrider]

I don't see the point in spending that time and money for the specials tools you need.

I would personally rather take it to a shop to get it done. Much easier.

Well, I don't trust the Jiffy Lube punks close to home to use the oil I want, put in the correct amount and then remember to put the drain plug and filler cap back on. I'm not going to drive 20 minutes to the nearest dealer ($4 in gas both ways), then wait 15-30 minutes in a waiting room. I can be doing other chores at home while the oil drains.

The special tools are a $5 filter socket, and a $2 funnel or something similar that I rig up to make the job easier. Those are one time investments.

Sure, working on a vehicle can be very frustrating at times, but I get the satisfaction that I didn't pay someone to screw up my vehicle. I can do that for free.

The only time anyone touches my vehicles are for tires and alignments....period, and that's only because the tools for those are prohibitively expensive.

That's my rationale, and I realize the job will only get easier the more I do it.

 

[Clemsonfan15]

In your case aerobat it makes sinse to do it yourself. I guess for me since I have about five different shops within a two mile radius it is just really convient to take it to them.

I always make an appointment and most of the shops have a viewing area so that you can see back into the garage. I always watch them while they are working.

When you do it at home don't you have to take the old oil to a landfill or something?

 

[Outrider]

When you do it at home don't you have to take the old oil to a landfill or something?

Nah, I just pour it out in the back of my neighbors yard after dark.

Just kidding. I dump the drain pan into a 5 gallon gas can, and when it's full I take it to one of the oil change places nearby, and dump it into their storage tank for recycling. That's a hassle too, but I only have to do it every couple of months, and they let me walk right in and dump it without waiting.

 

[shootmymime]

nice comments everyone...


has anyone attempted to buy a relocation kit? i do all the work my self and i hate getting the filter off! even with a brush guard and big tires in my way! its just hard to get to...

 

[XJeepguy]

Ya for the cost of having some shop do it , I spend the money I save and buy Mobil 1 Syn for mine and do it myself .

Its really not that bad when u pull the rubber flap back . Dont be in a rush and make sure there's no children around when the cussing occurs :biggrin2:

Some people don't want to spend $20 letting somebody do something that really isn't hard but if you don't like getting dirty and I admit it is a bit of a hassle then then let somebody else do it but it is easy money for the dealer.

I just hand tighten mine but even a filter wrench only costs a few buck and I can change mine in a half hour and that's worth the money I'd pay the dealer to do it.

 

[Stick Figure]

lol ... you guys that think the 4runner is a PITA need to try and change the oil on some of Toyotas other vehicles.... the Supras come to mind ... complete pain, the IS300 dumps oil from the filter all over the engine mount and cross member... the 3SGTE engine puts the filter between the turbo and alternator.. takes forever to cool down enough to touch the filter.... anyway to add a bit of something constructive to this, if you have a hard time getting the filter off and out w/ out spilling everywhere, put a zip lock bad around it, and let it drop and drain into the bag then seal and remove it.

 

[Blitzkrieg]

Thanks for the tips above about cranking the wheel and going through the cover. I was trying to attack the problem from the bottom. Got the job accomplished but was certain there had to be a better way.

I changed the oil on my newly acquired 4Runner a few weeks ago after purchase and the string of profanities emanating from my garage is still floating in space, I am certain...