Charging Issue with New Battery and Alternator

[19963.4lsr5]

This is mine. I also have a usb Charger that displays voltage if nothing is being charged.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Hot up to to temp Alternator.

Headlights, AC with fan in speed 3, in gear with foot on brake idling at 600-650rpm I had 41a coming out of the Alt and 2.5a coming out of the battery and battery voltage at the posts was 12.7v. My cig lighter shown 12.3 at the same time.

In park idling at 750rpm the post voltage was 13.6 and Alt was pushing 51 amps.

I had .1v drop between the Alt output (12.8v) post and the battery (12.7v). Thinking about it, I forgot to measure the Alt output at the Underwood junction box.

I’m using a Fluke AC/DC clamp on amp meter.


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[gamefreakgc]

Hot up to to temp Alternator.

Headlights, AC with fan in speed 3, in gear with foot on brake idling at 600-650rpm I had 41a coming out of the Alt and 2.5a coming out of the battery and battery voltage at the posts was 12.7v. My cig lighter shown 12.3 at the same time.

In park idling at 750rpm the post voltage was 13.6 and Alt was pushing 51 amps.

I had .1v drop between the Alt output (12.8v) post and the battery (12.7v). Thinking about it, I forgot to measure the Alt output at the Underwood junction box.

I’m using a Fluke AC/DC clamp on amp meter.


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I drove mine around today for a good 45 min at at idle with A/C brake, e-fan on etc. I was at 13.4V at the lowest, 13.8V at the highest. But that's why I did the big 3 plus a bigger alternator, more power at low RPM's so I don't wear down my battery.

I'm not sure if your voltage readings are bad, or just need to clean up the positive side like I did. Some online sources said a voltage drop of 0.1V or higher indicates a problem. But I've done 0 reading on a stock DENSO alt so maybe that's normal.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

So I finally logged onto T4R through my laptop and I appears I missed some things that TapTalk does not report to me.

What Alt did you upgrade to? A GM or a hot-rodded Denso?

Now that its 22 degrees I'm pushing more amps at 600rpm. But I wish There was a regulator that had a higher standard voltage. My GM alts as well as my RAM buth never go below 14.2v no matter the outside temp. Our Denso's seem to revert to 13.8 as soon as under hood temps get above 90f.

 

[brillo_76]

So I finally logged onto T4R through my laptop and I appears I missed some things that TapTalk does not report to me.



What Alt did you upgrade to? A GM or a hot-rodded Denso?



Now that its 22 degrees I'm pushing more amps at 600rpm. But I wish There was a regulator that had a higher standard voltage. My GM alts as well as my RAM buth never go below 14.2v no matter the outside temp. Our Denso's seem to revert to 13.8 as soon as under hood temps get above 90f.

Yes I check a few times a week via a laptop so I dont miss things as TapTalk doesn't always report notifications.


13.8 is a Toyota thing. :/

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[phattyduck]

13.8 is a Toyota thing. :/

Its a "any manufacturer that cares about batteries" thing. Battery chemistry changes with temperature, and requires a lower voltage for correct charging (instead of overcharging) with higher temperatures.

Be glad we don't have even more modern alternator systems that turn off completely under 'low load' situations.

-Charlie

 

[brillo_76]

Its a "any manufacturer that cares about batteries" thing. Battery chemistry changes with temperature, and requires a lower voltage for correct charging (instead of overcharging) with higher temperatures.

Be glad we don't have even more modern alternator systems that turn off completely under 'low load' situations.

-Charlie

Yup. Lead acid are fully charged below 12.6 Volts and the range for engine running is 13.7 to 14.7. Anything higher then 14.7 volts are a fully charged battery is actually cooking the cells.

The bummer is that 12.4 is when a car battery is dead. Below that you are sulfating off your conductive plates. so 12v is not a good reading at all.

When it gets cold in the winter. I sometimes hook a 2 amp charge over night on the vehicles I am driving. That way if they were down a little the charge will bring them back up to full state.

People do not fully understand that the alternators on most modern cars are only for maintaining a charge. If you accidentally drain one down. You really should charge up up for 12 or 24 hours a a low amp charge.

 

[phattyduck]

When it gets cold in the winter. I sometimes hook a 2 amp charge over night on the vehicles I am driving. That way if they were down a little the charge will bring them back up to full state.

People do not fully understand that the alternators on most modern cars are only for maintaining a charge. If you accidentally drain one down. You really should charge up up for 12 or 24 hours a a low amp charge.

I dealt with that recently on my Camry. I run a little Miata sized battery in that one. If I don't drive the car 3-4 days a week, it will very slowly discharge (like, over the course of a month, even with semi-regular driving). An overnight on a battery tender (just the 800mA version) every once in a while keeps it starting like a champ. I should also track down the high off-current draw on that car, but have been lazy... :biggrin2:

-Charlie

 

[brillo_76]

I dealt with that recently on my Camry. I run a little Miata sized battery in that one. If I don't drive the car 3-4 days a week, it will very slowly discharge (like, over the course of a month, even with semi-regular driving). An overnight on a battery tender (just the 800mA version) every once in a while keeps it starting like a champ. I should also track down the high off-current draw on that car, but have been lazy... :biggrin2:



-Charlie

You know how many amps your pulling in deep sleep state? I know its extremely hard to open the hood and clamp a DC induction amp meter on your positive terminal to pull an amp reading. Gosh it may take a whole 5 minutes for that .

Lol. At least if you knew the amp draw you can calculate the drainage time...

Sometimes those parasitic current drains can be hard to find. Been there done that.

I am sure in time your find the current consumer.

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[19963.4lsr5]

For current smaller than 1a I like putting my meter in line to get a more accurate reading.

I had almost .2a draw until I rewired the relay base for the factory fogs.

I noticed it after 3 days of sitting.


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[brillo_76]

For current smaller than 1a I like putting my meter in line to get a more accurate reading.

I had almost .2a draw until I rewired the relay base for the factory fogs.

I noticed it after 3 days of sitting.


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Correct more accurate. If its going dead very quickly it has to be a higher draw. On my brother in law dump truck. i have a 500ma draw and its supposed to only be 40ma so I have a lot of checking to do. We just leave the terminal off when truck is not in use at the moment.


500ma would get that dump truck with 2 batteries drain quicker then one would think. Granted it is winter..

 

[brillo_76]

Here is the only problem when putting the meter in series. When the vehicle is in deep sleep any door opening, taking of a battery terminal etc wakes it up. So sometimes you have to leave the hood open with everything shut off and clip an induction amp meter on to see what you are pulling while in deep sleep.

Unless you want to hook a meter up to the vehicle and like it sit for 6 to 20 min to make sure its in that mode. As you cant rush these things. Granted its not too long of a wait for the 3rd gens..

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Here is the only problem when putting the meter in series. When the vehicle is in deep sleep any door opening, taking of a battery terminal etc wakes it up. So sometimes you have to leave the hood open with everything shut off and clip an induction amp meter on to see what you are pulling while in deep sleep.

Unless you want to hook a meter up to the vehicle and like it sit for 6 to 20 min to make sure its in that mode. As you cant rush these things. Granted its not too long of a wait for the 3rd gens..

I have jumpers that I hook up and I can remove the plus terminal from the battery while maintaining power to the ECU to keep it asleep.


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[brillo_76]

I have jumpers that I hook up and I can remove the plus terminal from the battery while maintaining power to the ECU to keep it asleep.


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That works as most users do not have access to jumpers. I do as well. I was just trying to keep things simple. So everyone understood.

Good point though glad you mentioned it.

 

[phattyduck]

You know how many amps your pulling in deep sleep state? I know its extremely hard to open the hood and clamp a DC induction amp meter on your positive terminal to pull an amp reading. Gosh it may take a whole 5 minutes for that .

Lol. At least if you knew the amp draw you can calculate the drainage time...

Sometimes those parasitic current drains can be hard to find. Been there done that.

I am sure in time your find the current consumer.

Yup. I'd be using a standard meter in series. Though there is no 'deep sleep' mode in an '89 Camry. If the interior lights have dimmed and the headlight switch is off, that baby is off.

Plan would be to get everything ready with the battery connected - everything including alarm off, then remove battery ground while meter is left as the battery ground connection. Have to make sure no lights turn on, etc. Shouldn't take long, like you said. I just worry one of my vintage '90's aftermarket parts is the cause, and I don't want to lose any of them!

-Charlie

 

[brillo_76]

Yup. I'd be using a standard meter in series. Though there is no 'deep sleep' mode in an '89 Camry. If the interior lights have dimmed and the headlight switch is off, that baby is off.

Plan would be to get everything ready with the battery connected - everything including alarm off, then remove battery ground while meter is left as the battery ground connection. Have to make sure no lights turn on, etc. Shouldn't take long, like you said. I just worry one of my vintage '90's aftermarket parts is the cause, and I don't want to lose any of them!

-Charlie

I PO of my 91 decided to cut the engine harness and just solder all the white blacks back together as they were unaware or too lazy to unplug it behind the glove box.

I had a pile of circuits crossed. I got 98% of them. I just had to reset the ecu once in a while if it wouldn't start. but that one is gone lost to to an accident.

So yes I own 2 90s gen Camry's for many years. You get stumped on something send me a PM and I see if i can help you out.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

While at my house screwing around, (My soon to be EX with the 97 Puppy Hauler better be moving out soon or I’m going to end up going to court) I did some checking based on members saying that a .1v difference between points shows bad connections.

First both cables read .2 ohms. (Alternator to junction box, and junction box to battery)

So I did the voltage drop test and actually had .17v between the Alt and J-box.

So, it was time to see what happens when I put a wire in parallel with the factory cables that read .2 ohms between the connections. I set up me Fluke to DC amps and paralleled the connections. Alt to J-Box was .7a going through the meter which means there was not a high resistance connection or more amps would have wanted to go through the meter Instead of the wire between the two. For the hell of it I went from Alt to Battery post and had 1a going through the meter. Again not a bad connection even though I had more than .1v between the connections.


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[phattyduck]

So yes I own 2 90s gen Camry's for many years. You get stumped on something send me a PM and I see if i can help you out.

It would be rare for me to be stumped on that car. I rebuilt it top to bottom with performance parts, turbo motor swap, manual swap, etc. Did everything but a few weld beads myself.

A little hint as to why I need to run a smaller battery:

The empty space near the battery now has a boost control solenoid and a sub fuse/relay box to control a few extra things around the engine bay...

To bring this around to the thread though - it has a similar under-powered alternator (80A) as the 4Runner (and originally a group 35 battery!). I know the pain of drooping voltage at idle, especially when the headlights, brake lights and radiator fans are on.

-Charlie

 

[brillo_76]

It would be rare for me to be stumped on that car. I rebuilt it top to bottom with performance parts, turbo motor swap, manual swap, etc. Did everything but a few weld beads myself.

A little hint as to why I need to run a smaller battery:

The empty space near the battery now has a boost control solenoid and a sub fuse/relay box to control a few extra things around the engine bay...

To bring this around to the thread though - it has a similar under-powered alternator (80A) as the 4Runner (and originally a group 35 battery!). I know the pain of drooping voltage at idle, especially when the headlights, brake lights and radiator fans are on.

-Charlie

Yup they all dim {voltage drop } at idle. Mine 2 were bone stock..

 

[Chelsealeigh]

Hey guys needing help all mechanics around me are full for a week + any advice welcome.
Ok so my new to me 05 t4r v6 4x4 had an intermittent battery light comes and goes as it pleases(I cant catch it on long enough to check put what's the issue) so fast forward I get a oil changed (could be unrelated but I put it in just in case) It threw CEL with the other VTC off and the code was for stuck open thermostat (replaced with the aftermarket one the auto parts had in stock) so everything was good. Go camping and on the way I notice that when trying to preserve the petal to accelerate I get no power or response. Then it would and seemed to switch gears fine. Noticed I cant get into o/d. Massive power loss going up an incline which I live in wnc its inevitable. So going up a mountain now I use 3500 rpms just to barely make it to the top of my road steep incline. I heard a loud whine or air sucking maybe? Anyways it goes ok on flatter land but any extra need off power its grasping. I got a code for p2714 and then next day was a p0776 the solenoids in the trans.... but I was counting and it seemed to switch ok I tried using the 1234 selector to try and go up in low gear but not really any difference. Please help I dont want to throw money in it if it's something big but i do want to fix if I can. I just paid waaay to much for this car for it to be having problems like this. Unfortunately were on our own here and are savvy DIY sellers. I've been researching for days and I have a huge list of could best and maybe but can anyone maybe help me where to start checking or ruling out most likely first. We do have a multimeter if you've read this far a thousand thanks yous. Any help advice appreciated