Clanking noise during braking question

[JackOSU]

I was hoping to pick the brains of some of the folks here.

Back in April of this year I had some breaking issues and thought the pads had finally worn out. Unfortunately, my only option was the dealership due to needing my car for a 1500 mile round trip I was to be leaving for in 24 hours.

The dealers master mechanic also said I had smoked the brakes and my calipers had frozen up (of course they did right? It is a 4th gen.) I would need new rotors, pads, calipers, flushed brake lines, also had a bad front left wheel bearing and needed new boots on the front both inner and out since they were filled with the typical milkshake deal. Total they killed me for a little over $2,400.

So last month I hear this clanking noise from the front again only when applying the brakes. Sounds like when the piston engages. I call the dealer for this shouldn't be happening in 5 months from everything being updated. Guy looks it over and says that the pads are floating in the caliper and they were knocking. He put some grease of some sort behind the pads from what I gathered from the service manager. I drove it for about a month and a half and now the sound is back and louder than ever.

I'm looking for opinions from folks on what the problem is and if I'm stuck with the noise that in my opinion is unacceptable for the amount of money I spent to have it fixed.

Mind you this is also the dealer who told me a replacement exhaust and resonator 2 weeks ago would cost me $961 plus tax. I took it to an exhaust place and the whole cat bk pipe and magnaflow exhaust with tip was $214 out the door.

Thoughts??

 

[earthrealm]

are you sure its not the brake retainer clip that he forgot to install..many threads on that issue. the clips are about $7 a pair, but your symtoms are kinda opposite .most folks the noise happens when doing less than 20mph and stops when the brakes are applied

 

[JackOSU]

Yeah I saw that thread as well. My issue you are correct is when I actually engage the break petal.

The grease or whatever they did the first time did stop the noise. If that is the answer how hard would that be to do myself? What kind of lubricant should be used and would I have to take wheel off as well as caliper to get to service?

If so then since I don't have tools I may need to go back to this dealer. In all honesty I'd like to avoid if possible for I feel they keeping trying to yank my chain, but I keep putting up with it so as not having to take to another place and be out more money.

Anyone else have any possible suggestions? Blackworks any thoughts by you being in the inside??

 

[DC runner]

I second the retaining spring. That is exactly what its function is. Our brakes are floating disc brakes. When the brake is engaged, hydraulic pressure physically pushes the pad against the rotor. Once off the brake, the pad will rest ever so slightly against the pad. Floating.

That clips job is to apply a slight, even pressure, to the pad to keep it from clanking around. Trust me. When I first did a brake job I forgot about replacing the retain spring and it clanked for about a month till I fixed it.

I don't remember if new front pads come with new ones. Not sure calipers do either and if the originals were corroded they may not be working correctly and as a result not doing their job.

Simple, simple, simple fix if that is it. Take it to another mechanic, any reputable one, and have them take a look. If they come to this conclusion you can call the dealer back and inform them you want to to re-do it, correctly. They might balk so be prepared to let the other mechanic do it. Also, be prepared to pay X dollars for diagnosis from the other dealer.

It is a very simple thing to check, but if you don't have the tools to do it, you will have to pay someone to look. The description of problems just sounds like the retain spring.

 

[JackOSU]

DC: Thank you sir for your insight and info.

Well just as an update I went to the dealer today after calling them last night to inform the Assistant Service Manager who've I've been dealing with that the problem is back.

They told me today that the master tech named Mike put more brake grease in there and that to call them on Monday for the gentlemen in service was probably going to order another set of pads.

He claims that they make 2 different sets of pads. One maybe of a higher quality, but said that they could be a little different in size thus why I am getting the clunking noise. I asked him if the shims were used and the retaining pins/springs were checked. He said yeah they used and checked all of those. I didn't though with his answer get the feeling that they may have actually checked the retaining spring or anything since I saw my vehicle up on the lift with no one touching it for 25 minutes straight of the hour and 20 minutes I was there.

So I guess I will call him Monday to see what he says. One more thing I'm curious on is what the other type of pad it could be? Is this an after market pad he's going to try to resolve things with and/or is he meaning a possible upgrade in quality say like a TRD pad if such thing even exists???

On my original paperwork it says the part number and description used originally is 04465-AZ001-TM and TCMC Brakepad W-S and I was charged $63.07. I looked that pad up and saw things for both a Tundra and a T4R.

I won't get into them waaaay overcharging me for parts that were in stock that I today checked and the part numbers I had them look up while waiting for them to diagnose whatever today from my sheet ranged anywhere from 15-45% higher in cost with what they charged me for the original job. Hell for that savings I could have picked it up and walked it 20 feet to the guy working on the vehicle.

Again if anyone has any hints of info on the pads he was talking about that would be greatly appreciated.

 

[DC runner]

Sorry man. I wouldn't put it past them to lie. Brake jobs are so simple to them, they probably go into auto pilot and forget stuff occasional.

Pad thickness shouldn't have anything to do with it. The whole point of the 1. shim and 2. retain spring is to prevent rattle regardless.

When I buy my pads at autozone, most of their pads have a shim built into them on the back of the pad and I have never had a clanking issue from them. If they have it, surely toyota do as well?

Wish you lived near me. I really need like 5 minutes to figure this out.

FYI: Pads I put on
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...lu3xZ8ko29?itemIdentifier=60465_116848_16108_

As you will see they have a rubberized shim on the back. Still, the retaining spring is what keeps even pressure. I wonder if they reused the old rust one and it needed a new one?

 

[JackOSU]

Sorry man. I wouldn't put it past them to lie. Brake jobs are so simple to them, they probably go into auto pilot and forget stuff occasional.

Pad thickness shouldn't have anything to do with it. The whole point of the 1. shim and 2. retain spring is to prevent rattle regardless.

When I buy my pads at autozone, most of their pads have a shim built into them on the back of the pad and I have never had a clanking issue from them. If they have it, surely toyota do as well?

Wish you lived near me. I really need like 5 minutes to figure this out.

FYI: Pads I put on
Duralast Gold Cmax/Brake Pads - Front (DGC976) | 2004 Toyota 4 Runner 4WD 6 Cylinders U 4.0L EFI DOHC | AutoZone.com

As you will see they have a rubberized shim on the back. Still, the retaining spring is what keeps even pressure. I wonder if they reused the old rust one and it needed a new one?

DC,

Thanks again for your help with things. They ended up putting on the new pads and the part number came up being pads for the Sequoia I believe. They are a pad that had a cranberry type body to them. They definitely looked bigger from looking inside the wheel well. No noise the past two weeks so hopefully this works. Just thought I'd give you an update and whatnot. Have a good one.

 

[lehiguy]

Sorry for your pain. I feel bad for people who, for whatever reason, don't do their own work. It's like this more often than it should be and it doesn't matter what brand you drive. Competent techs are truly hard to find.

 

[Papparover]

Front pads retaining clip?

Does anyone have a picture or diagram to show where the clips go?

 

[lehiguy]

I second the retaining spring. That is exactly what its function is. Our brakes are floating disc brakes. When the brake is engaged, hydraulic pressure physically pushes the pad against the rotor. Once off the brake, the pad will rest ever so slightly against the pad. Floating.

These are not floating calipers, they are a fixed caliper, bolted directly to the spindle or axle housing. Floating calipers are common on GM stuff where the caliper moves back and forth on pins thus requiring a piston on only one side of the caliper since it pulls the other side into the rotor just as hard.

 

[satanos6668280]

The two available pad sets that toyota offers differ only that one set comes with shims and one does not the pads themselves are identical. The reason for this clunk after a pad change is not the fault of the pad its rust that builds up between the pad and caliper that prevents the noise then when new pads are installed and the rust cleaned off there is a small gap causing a noise as the pad shifts in caliper. In the 80s toyotas fix for this was to cut a soda can and stick a piece in between. But greasing the pad backing and ends usually cures it for a while then when the grease wears out it will do it again.