Brake issue

[04SR54me]

When I brake, my car pulls to the left. In the past, I bled the system, replaced the right caliper and did new pads and rotors. Still have the problem.
Today, I pulled the wheels, both front wheels turn freely when off the ground. After hitting the brake pedal, they still move freely. I opened the bleeder on thte right side, passenger side, and fluid was dripping out of it, so I now the flex line is carring fluid. I rebled that side. I was originally suspecting the hose, but fluid is passing through it. Also, when I had someone depress the pedal, both wheels will stop securely and when the pedal is released, nothing hangs up, the wheels move smoothly.
Anyone have an idea as to why this is happening? Tires good and just balanced.
This is a 04 2wd, SR5. Thx.

 

[AuSeeker]

When I brake, my car pulls to the left. In the past, I bled the system, replaced the right caliper and did new pads and rotors. Still have the problem.
Today, I pulled the wheels, both front wheels turn freely when off the ground. After hitting the brake pedal, they still move freely. I opened the bleeder on thte right side, passenger side, and fluid was dripping out of it, so I now the flex line is carring fluid. I rebled that side. I was originally suspecting the hose, but fluid is passing through it. Also, when I had someone depress the pedal, both wheels will stop securely and when the pedal is released, nothing hangs up, the wheels move smoothly.
Anyone have an idea as to why this is happening? Tires good and just balanced.
This is a 04 2wd, SR5. Thx.

It could be the difference between the old and new caliper, when replacing calipers it's always best to replace them in pairs instead of just one side so you get balanced/equal braking.

 

[SocalSam]

I had the same issue with my then new to me '03. There was air trapped in the brake line at the hydroboost valve block. Have your assistant or something heavy press the brake pedal and crack the line at the valve block. Repeat as necessary. You might as well do all lines to be sure. Inspect rotor and pads for un-even wear caused by imbalance. Replace as needed.

 

[SocalSam]

It could be the difference between the old and new caliper, when replacing calipers it's always best to replace them in pairs instead of just one side so you get balanced/equal braking.

This.

 

[04SR54me]

Agreed, but Napa would only warranty the defective one, so I took what I could get! lol!

 

[04SR54me]

I just rode for about 30 minutes and there was some slight pulling on braking, but more noticeable at mid range and higher speeds. But, somewhat better after bleeding the R side. On the way back after it sat a while, still somewhat better. I used my infrared heat reading gun, Harbor Freight Special, and there was only about 2-3degrees difference in the rotor temps, the problem side being the lower reading, but I think its negligable. Teh unit isn't that precise. About cracking the lines, which ones go to the front wheels? Is the the two lower ones that are a pain in the butt to access? I might just ride it a day or two and keep my fingers crossed. I will change the flex line on that side, though, just in case.

 

[AuSeeker]

I just rode for about 30 minutes and there was some slight pulling on braking, but more noticeable at mid range and higher speeds. But, somewhat better after bleeding the R side. On the way back after it sat a while, still somewhat better. I used my infrared heat reading gun, Harbor Freight Special, and there was only about 2-3degrees difference in the rotor temps, the problem side being the lower reading, but I think its negligable. Teh unit isn't that precise. About cracking the lines, which ones go to the front wheels? Is the the two lower ones that are a pain in the butt to access? I might just ride it a day or two and keep my fingers crossed. I will change the flex line on that side, though, just in case.

Just a little info, I've been doing mechanic work for well over 55 years and wouldn't give you lame advice.

When you're asking about the two lower lines, where exactly are these lower lines you're referring to?

It relatively easy to determine which lines are which just by following them from the master cylinder and see where they go too.

But now again you're addressing only one side again as far as the flexible lines, as I stated you need to replace any of the degrading items in pairs or you will never get equal braking from side to side, on the calipers all you had to do was tell NAPA there's something wrong with both calipers and they would of replaced both.

So doing only one flexible line is not how it's done properly, replace both sides, if it was just replacing one of the hard metal lines that fine and not an issue because they are good unless they are rusted and leaking and don't go bad on the insides, but for flexible lines if one is bad then the other side is probably in much the same condition and there's no way to tell because they swell on the inside and restrict flow in both directions, under pressure and releasing pressure!

But you do you, I wish you the best but you're just fighting yourself only doing a partial job.

 

[SocalSam]

...About cracking the lines, which ones go to the front wheels? Is the the two lower ones that are a pain in the butt to access? I might just ride it a day or two and keep my fingers crossed. I will change the flex line on that side, though, just in case.

When I bleed the valve block, I crack all lines, one by one. I also trigger ABS and TCS events on slippery surfaces that are in a safe place. Repeat as necessary.

 

[04SR54me]

Thanks for the advice. The lines I was talking about were from the ABS block and there are a number of hard lines that come from that. I'll see what I can do. Again, Thanks.

 

[04SR54me]

Got it. We'll see how it goes. Thx.

 

[04SR54me]

Okay, well for some reason the site won't let me log in,but I did the ABS bleed today and it seems much better, but I haven't been on the highway yet. I am going to replace the calipers and brake hoses, but I have to wait until Monday since Napa only had one of them is stock. Thanks again. I'll post an update.

 

[04SR54me]

Okay, after the ABS bleed, it still pulled, but less. I replaced the calipers and brake hoses, and everything seems to be fine now. Thanks, everyone. I think the real issue was the caliper pins on the R side. That caliper was replaced about a year ago, and the pins were new at the time, but were now totally corroded. I could barely work them through the pads, so I think that's where the hang-up was. Of course, with all-new calipers and hoses, we're golden now, but does anyone make stainless-steel caliper pins? I think that would be a great upgrade. Thanks again, -B

 

[AuSeeker]

Okay, after the ABS bleed, it still pulled, but less. I replaced the calipers and brake hoses, and everything seems to be fine now. Thanks, everyone. I think the real issue was the caliper pins on the R side. That caliper was replaced about a year ago, and the pins were new at the time, but were now totally corroded. I could barely work them through the pads, so I think that's where the hang-up was. Of course, with all-new calipers and hoses, we're golden now, but does anyone make stainless-steel caliper pins? I think that would be a great upgrade. Thanks again, -B

Did you put any brake lube on the new pins, if not and you didn't do it the last time your did your brakes...THAT is more than likely the problem, it will keep the pins from corroding and allow the pads to move freely.

If not I would go back in and lube the pins with a good brake lubricant so they last for years instead of just one year.

 

[SocalSam]

Thanks for the resolution. That will help me and everyone else for posterity.

 

[igwig]

check brake switch too. might not be the issue but mine was busted and was messing with my Yaw/vsc and pulled to the left as well. or an alignment issue.