Click no start... After contact rebuild and hot shot relay

[RAD4Runner]

Clutch Safety and Clutch Safety Cancel Started in 1986

THOR,
Sorry but that painless schematic is a pain LOL!. No telling what the wires are for, coil +, coil -,c Load/contact power, Load. And why is black wire looping back into the relay? Asked them for an electrical schematic, not a block diagram? Otherwise, you would just have to follow its color code.

I even see 2 wires connected to the starter solenoid, when I'm absolutely sure there is only one connection to starter solenoid, the brown connector with male spade in it.

The only connections to starter solenoid I know of are:

1. Thick battery positive on screw terminal (supply side of solenoid contacts), and
2. The brown connector with male spade in it.

Also save yourself time and guesswork; get connections with bare shiny metal once and be done with it.

Sorry to clutter this discussion with the safety/cancel

I don't have to have the clutch in to start my truck. It's nice to be able to leave the clutch out and let the starter pull me up an obstacle if I kill the motor.

Agree. I think that's exactly what Toyota intended the clutch safety cancel for. i.e., truck is making a 3-point u-turn and dies while you have cliff behind you.

...the 85 FSM doesn't show the clutch start switch, but the 88 FSM does (and in fact page CL-4 is an exact match to the one in my 92 FSM). So that switch was added somewhere in the 86-88 year.

Yes, makes sense. The clutch safety switch (pic below) works with the starter relay. It provides ground to negative side of starter relay if clutch is depressed, while ign ST1 contacts provide positive 12V to coil. Therefore, on trucks without the starter relay, it would not exist, either. Applies to KidV's 85 and earlier 86's. (Mine built in August 86 has the relay)
Thor's probably does NOT have the clutch safety switch.

 

[THOR_runner]

Sorry to clutter this discussion with the safety/cancel

No need to apologize. Are we trying to troubleshoot an issue that I am having? Yes. But someone else down the road will use this as a reference and maybe side convos will help the next guy.

Yeah, the painless wasn't really painless. I'm embarrassed to admit that I actually called them. The black wire on the schematic was confusing. It looks like it actually loops back to the actual realy, when in fact it loops to the housing that the relay sets into and connects as the ground via screw. The red wire connects to the positive post on the starter. Then cut the wire on the truck that connects into the brown connector leaving enough to work with on the pig tail/connector end. Thick purple wire goes to the pig tail that connects to the brown connector. The small purple wire goes to the other end of the snipped wire. I believe it is the ignition wire.

Auto's don't have a clutch/cancel, correct. But don't they have a neutral safety switch or something similar?

 

[THOR_runner]

http://forgifs.com/gallery/v/Cat-chases-tail.gif.html

I think all runner owners feel this way at some point...

 

[giro]

Auto's don't have a clutch/cancel, correct. But don't they have a neutral safety switch or something similar?

Yes, in the '85 FSM (from the previous link...download it if you don't already have it) the electrical diagram shows that on an automatic it has a "Neutral start s/w". But personally I can't think of a reason that would only give you a problem when warm, and not when the 4runner is cold or hot.

In that same diagram I see "From "ENGINE" Fuse (A/T) (1-5)". I looked around a bit, but reading with the page on it's side is a pain, and I just don't want to print it out. It seems like the circuit is simple enough.

Try stepping though that wiring diagram piece by piece. Maybe even take the cold start system out of the equation temporarily.

 

[THOR_runner]

So... Click no start... Wasn't an issue tonight. I started it up 3-5 times within 10 minutes... I have yet to address the issue of the disconnected grounds, correct the FL, and some of the aforementioned suggestions. No time in the evenings during training. However I did have a few minutes to pull the CEL codes. I got a code 5, which points to the o2 sensor. When I got out of the truck from driving it, the smell of gas was nauseating. That seems to make sense - o2 out of whack, delivering too much gas to the engine making it run crappy and underpowered. Correct me if I am wrong.

Are there multiple o2 sensors? Previous vehicles I've owned had one near the exhaust manifold and one further down the line. I also need to figure out if I have an exhaust leak. It sounds like it.

 

[KidVermicious]

You should have one O2 sensor, right on the exhaust manifold.

 

[crazy gringo]

Thor , you are correct automatics DO NOT have a cancel button and YES they do have a nutral safty switch , which WILL cause the click no start problem and it either needs to be replaced or bypassed. I had the same problem your having and that is the only fix for the problem on the automatics. but if you by pass the switch the car will start in any gear

 

[CAN-03runner]

In reference to the picture in Post 41.

I had double whamy click no start. Never started with the clutch, and was hit and miss with the clutch "cancel" button.

I put in a relay and then it always started with the clutch "cancel" button, but since my clutch safety switch was also buggered it would not start by pressing the clutch.

I was going to replace the clutch safety switch until I took a closer look at the connector. It's basically spade pins and "spade receiver". The spades were slanted inwards, and apparently not making good contact. I just bent them more outwards and now the spades really rub and scrape the "spade receiver" and create a nice tight contact. Starts up via pressing clutch everytime now too, no need to press clutch cancel button.

So if in an automatic, the park safety switch is a similar configuration, you may just need to bend those pins out a little to make a nice tight connection again, or remake those spade terminations.