Issues after shop replaced rack and pinion

[overlandout]

Looking for some advice or insight on some issues I am experiencing. Sorry in advance for the long post.

Vehicle Specs:
2007 V8 SR5 (213,000 miles)

I had torn tie rod boots and a power steering fluid leak. The leak was diagnosed by the shop I went to.

They replaced the rack and pinion, presumably with a cheap aftermarket one. While they were finishing up, they called me to let me know they broke my clock spring when setting my alignment and would be replacing that as well.

Since I got it back, there has been quite a bit more play in my steering wheel maybe .5"-.75" before any resistance is met. Steering wheel was slightly off center. Also, when turning the wheel from from center about 1/4 of a rotation in either direction there is a quiet click that seems to come from the steering wheel (this happens while stationary or while moving).

I brought it back to the shop due to the clicking noise. They said they tried 4 different clock springs and left the one that made the least clicking noise and sent me on my way and implied that it is normal.

At this point I accepted that I would just have to figure this out on my own and would fix it later. I had already planned to install a lift and other front end components: Bilstein 5100s (front and rear), Dobinsons C59-325R and C59-302R coils, JBA STD High Caster Upper Control Arms, and Mevotech LCAs. I did this install myself.

After installing those parts I took it in to Firestone (not the previous shop) for a an alignment today because of the lift. They told me that while they could get the car into alignment, when the driving forward the camber changes one way and when reversing it changes back the other way. They said this wasn't due to the cam bolts shifting either.

Firestone suggested the camber changing could be a result of improperly installed bushings for the rack and pinion.

The tech also checked over my lift components and said that they appeared be installed properly.


Alignment results when stationary/settled:

Front Left
Camber: -0.5
Caster: 3.4
Toe: 0.03

Front Right
Camber: -0.5
Caster: 3.4
Toe: 0.02


Does it make sense that the power steering bushings could be the cause for camber to change when moving forward or backwards?

Any idea what could cause the the clicking in the steering wheel?



Thanks in advance for any help or insight!

Note: I did search quite a bit on the forum. Didn't find much for camber that changes like this. The click I'm experiencing does not seem to be the same as what most threads are about. Not much of a clunk or rattle, doesn't matter if I'm moving or stationary.

 

[rdruss]

First of all you chose the wrong shop for your rack/pinion, which you probably realize. What does Firestone mean about the camber, that it goes -.05 when drive forward and +.05 when you go reverse? Should have some wheel wobble if that's the case.

 

[overlandout]

First of all you chose the wrong shop for your rack/pinion, which you probably realize. What does Firestone mean about the camber, that it goes -.05 when drive forward and +.05 when you go reverse? Should have some wheel wobble if that's the case.

Yeah, I won't be going back there again. Extremely disappointed with their work.

I think what you are describing is pretty much what they are saying. I'll go out tomorrow and lift the front wheels up to see if I can notice any play in the wheels by hand.

I've read that you can experience that in and out motion with too much toe angle. But, that doesn't seem to be the case here.

 

[overlandout]

I put the front end up on jack stands today.

I didn’t see any issues with the rack and pinion bushings.

No play in the wheels when I tug on them. I also jacked it up with the weight on the LCA to test for play. I didn’t notice any play there either.

Once back on the ground I tried pulling the car forward and backward while checking camber (eye balling it until my camber gauge arrives later today). I didn’t notice any change in either direction. Although, they do look like they have more than a half degree of negative camber, contrary to my alignment sheet.

It’s two weeks before Toyota can get it in to take a look. I’m going to call the local offroad customs shop on Monday. Maybe they can take a look sooner.

 

[rdruss]

You can download "Angle Pro" or a similar angle measuring ap onto your phone, then put a pice of flat bar, or tube, or whatever across the width of your rim, vertically and put your phone up there and get angle reading for your camber, roll it forward a foot and measure again, back two feet and measure again. When you are satisfied compare to what specs are supposed to be.

For toe, the way I do it is get a length of straight board, or metal, mine is wood, a 1" x 2" 72" long, put two marks on it that are the track measurement spec for the 5th gen, my 4th gen is 62" track width. So, leave an inch or two from the end of the length you plan to use and make a mark, measure 62" and make second mark, now put a jack stand in front of each front wheel so the top of jack is about at the center of the tire, put the marked length of board on the jacks across the width and center one mark in the center of one of the tires, now look at the other tire center and where the mark on that board is. My wheels are virtually centered with the marks, or in other words my toe is about zero, check the rear of the front tires the same way and you will be able to determine whether you have toe in or toe out and by about how much and you can adjust it with the tie rods.

I have SPC UCA's so I can adjust my camber there and I run alignment cam eliminator kit at the center position on my LCA's, but that's just my preference, I don't believe in adjusting the caster/camber with the LCA alignment cams. My tire wear is excellent and steering rock stable on the highway.

 

[rdruss]

You can download "Angle Pro" or a similar angle measuring ap onto your phone, then put a piece of flat bar, or tube, or whatever across the diameter of your rim, vertically, and put your phone on the bar to get angle reading for your camber, roll it forward a foot and measure again, back two feet and measure again. When you are satisfied compare to what specs are supposed to be.

For toe, the way I do it is get a length of straight board, or metal, mine is wood, a 1" x 2" 72" long, put two marks on it that are the track width measurement spec for the 5th gen, my 4th gen is 62" track width. So, leave an inch or two from the end of the length you plan to use and make a mark, measure 62" and make second mark, now put a jack stand in front of each front wheel so the top of stand is about at the center of the tire, put the marked length of board on the stands across the width and center one mark in the center of one of the tires, now look at the other tire center and where the mark on that board is. My wheels are virtually centered with the marks, or in other words my toe is about zero, check the rear of the front tires the same way and you will be able to determine whether you have toe in or toe out and by about how much and you can adjust it with the tie rods.

I have SPC UCA's so I can adjust my camber there and I run alignment cam eliminator kit at the center position on my LCA's, but that's just my preference, I don't believe in adjusting the caster/camber with the LCA alignment cams. My tire wear is excellent and steering rock stable on the highway.

 

[overlandout]

I finally have some answers. Toyota dealership took a look and found that the rack and pinion had not been centered before install. It was so off center that the drivers side outer tie rod was only holding on by 2-3 threads when aligned. The play in the wheel appears to be from this.

Additionally, they never unbolted the steering column (all bolts were seized). Instead, they hammered it out and presumably hammered it back in and damaged the splines. Toyota thinks that is where the steering wheel play is coming from.

They are going to disassemble a few things tomorrow to let me know what is salvageable and what needs to be replaced.

 

[overlandout]

Final update:

The intermediate shaft splines were flattened out causing it to slip.

Toyota replaced the intermediate shaft, recentered the rack, and performed an alignment. The original shop that installed the rack paid for these repairs. I still won’t be going back, but I’m glad they made it right.

No more squirrelly steering, no more play in the steering wheel.