Complete front strut assembly recommendations

roger65

New member
I will be replacing the front struts on my daughters 96 4runner in the coming weeks and am looking at doing a complete strut assy vs reusing the stock spring as the rig has 300k miles on it. I am assuming the struts on there now are the stock ones since they say Toyota on them and the lower bushings in them are toast. I see unit from Monroe, Gabriel, Moog, GPS, and Summit. Anyone have experience with any of these? Will be doing rear shocks at the same time as well.
 
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I will be replacing the front struts on my daughters 96 4runner in the coming weeks and am looking at doing a complete strut assy vs reusing the stock spring as the rig has 300k miles on it. I am assuming the struts on there now are the stock ones since they say Toyota on them and the lower bushings in them are toast. I see unit from Monroe, Gabriel, Moog, GPS, and Summit. Anyone have experience with any of these? Will be doing rear shocks at the same time as well.

I wouldn't put Monroe or Gabriel shocks on my truck if they were giving them away and throwing in a free gas card.

I wouldn't use any of those brands. Personally, I'd go with Bilstein or KYB.
 
I wouldn't put Monroe or Gabriel shocks on my truck if they were giving them away and throwing in a free gas card.

I wouldn't use any of those brands. Personally, I'd go with Bilstein or KYB.
She has a pretty strict budget, that's why we are looking at those brands. I figured at 300K miles the springs could use replacing as well.
Almost anything has to be better than the clapped out stock units.
 
Installed Monroe Quick Struts on a GX470 (same platform as a 4th-gen 4Runner) almost 2 years ago (August 2018) and so far so good.

Definitely shop around, I just happened to have some rewards $ from Advance Auto plus a 25% discount code at the time which ended up costing less than any mail order source
 
Why not consider KYB shocks and moog springs? Get someone to preassemble for you. Those are generally considered good basic parts. Lots of info available about folks using both, cheap at r*ck auto.

Personally, I’ve never had Monroe’s last over 6 months. They don’t seem to like cold and start knocking.
 
[MENTION=550225]roger65[/MENTION], I've used KYB adjustible's on a car held up fine for the 30-40k miles I kept it. Been mentioned here using Moog springs people were positive about ride, no long term info, I'm guessing 40k +-mi they be done, for the price not bad.

As for paying for assembly, why do that ? Just saying.
Just installed Billy Tundra 6112's big diameter, long. Shop's wanted $130-50 some wouldn't touch em, hook compressor no go. I Used LCA, Floor jack, weight of vehicle to assemble struts on vehicle, easiest way I've ever done it, cheap. Had slow controllable speed, power, 3 axis rigid frame keeping things straight as you guide parts in place till stem is through top hat, bushings compressed, put stem nut on torque it. Safety always a concern messing with springs. Felt safer more in control of job than I ever felt using hook or floor stand type compressers.
 
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In my case, I replaced with Manoe quick strut and that was a major mistake. (Tentanus 1.) Not even remotely close to OEM struts. I did this 5 years ago and regretted it ever since. I definitely would go with another combination.

On a side note:

The OEM struts are extremely expensive because Toyota lifetime warranty them if you have a dealership install the shocks and struts as well as their exhausts. However, they do honor it and will replace the shocks and struts etc. If they leak.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
 
She has a pretty strict budget, that's why we are looking at those brands. I figured at 300K miles the springs could use replacing as well.
Almost anything has to be better than the clapped out stock units.

May want to check out pricing on the KYB’s as I went with them at all 4 corners and have been very happy with the results.
They are reasonably priced and in my experience offer similar ride/handling to the originals.
 
In my case, I replaced with Manoe quick strut and that was a major mistake. (Tentanus 1.) Not even remotely close to OEM struts. I did this 5 years ago and regretted it ever since. I definitely would go with another combination.

On a side note:

The OEM struts are extremely expensive because Toyota lifetime warranty them if you have a dealership install the shocks and struts as well as their exhausts. However, they do honor it and will replace the shocks and struts etc. If they leak.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

Brillo. What did you disconnect to do this? I've thought about it myself as I have a pair of KYBs and Moog 99 talls waiting for install (when I get around to it). I've see it done on the 4th gen by just disconnecting LBJ, but I'm not sure why the same approach couldn't be taken on the 3rd gen. However, it doesn't seem to get much traction.

My thought were:
1) Jack up vehicle and place on jack stands
2) Support LCA w/ jack and provide a bit of up pressure.
3) Remove lower shock mount bolt
4) Remove disconnect OTE and Sway bar link
5) Remove LBJ (either castle nut or 4 bolts) (might replace anyway as mine are 5 y/o 555s.
6) Remove 3 nuts holding old assembly in place
7) Lower LCA jack and remove assembly as a whole.

Install would be basically reverse.

1) Install Top hat into truck
2) insert spring
3) insert shock
4) reinstall lower shock bolt
5) jack up LCA and compress spring
6) attach top shock nut
7) re install LBJ, OTE, SB
8) Tighten everything up
 
Brillo. What did you disconnect to do this? I've thought about it myself as I have a pair of KYBs and Moog 99 talls waiting for install (when I get around to it). I've see it done on the 4th gen by just disconnecting LBJ, but I'm not sure why the same approach couldn't be taken on the 3rd gen. However, it doesn't seem to get much traction.

My thought were:
1) Jack up vehicle and place on jack stands
2) Support LCA w/ jack and provide a bit of up pressure.
3) Remove lower shock mount bolt
4) Remove disconnect OTE and Sway bar link
5) Remove LBJ (either castle nut or 4 bolts) (might replace anyway as mine are 5 y/o 555s.
6) Remove 3 nuts holding old assembly in place
7) Lower LCA jack and remove assembly as a whole.

Install would be basically reverse.

1) Install Top hat into truck
2) insert spring
3) insert shock
4) reinstall lower shock bolt
5) jack up LCA and compress spring
6) attach top shock nut
7) re install LBJ, OTE, SB
8) Tighten everything up

it would be nice to see a youtube video of this being done on a 3rd gen 4runner...not 4th gens and not other cars
 
[MENTION=550225]roger65[/MENTION], I've used KYB adjustible's on a car held up fine for the 30-40k miles I kept it. Been mentioned here using Moog springs people were positive about ride, no long term info, I'm guessing 40k +-mi they be done, for the price not bad.

As for paying for assembly, why do that ? Just saying.
Just installed Billy Tundra 6112's big diameter, long. Shop's wanted $130-50 some wouldn't touch em, hook compressor no go. I Used LCA, Floor jack, weight of vehicle to assemble struts on vehicle, easiest way I've ever done it, cheap. Had slow controllable speed, power, 3 axis rigid frame keeping things straight as you guide parts in place till stem is through top hat, bushings compressed, put stem nut on torque it. Safety always a concern messing with springs. Felt safer more in control of job than I ever felt using hook or floor stand type compressers.

What parts are required for such work? strut, which spring, and what are the other parts required? I have never done this type of work before. I did just do her ball joints. She does have a Revtek leveling kit on the front. Does this go away then? The main reason I want to do all is because the rig has 300K miles on it and it appears the struts are stock units so I am sure the springs will be all slacked out. It is her daily so it has to be done in a day.
 
Front springs don't seem to sag with age, so they are probably fine.

Rent some spring compressors (free from autozone) and you can swap everything over. If you live in the rust belt, you will likely need some replacement hardware.

If the Revtek kit you have is just the preload spacer, you will be 'fine' with whatever shocks you choose. If you have a top-out spacer too, then most of the non-OEM shocks will be too long to fit the top spacer.

-Charlie
 
What parts are required for such work? strut, which spring, and what are the other parts required? I have never done this type of work before....

Read this: 3rd Gen 4Runner Lift Information, small section on stock stuff.
Grab a 3rd Gen FSM off the net read it. Section SA-51 starts strut replacement.
At 300k I'd replace all springs n shocks with a aftermarket set for a 99 tall brand of your choosing.
Not a complicated job, easier you outside of rust belt, everything go right easy day job doing both ends first timer could be longer.
Front hiccup free most times, rear shock stem nuts in bad spot stem may need cutting off.
 
Looks like I screwed up by buying the Gariel Ultra ReadyMount struts. They appear to be shorter than the stock Toy/Bilsteins that are on the rig now. The Revtek appears to be a preload spacer set up with another 1/4" steel plate on the top. What do I need to buy to maintain this amount of lift. She is going to put 35s on this thing no matter what I say about it. Looks like the Bilsteins on RockAuto are close to same price by the time I add the bellow and top mount. The number on the strut on the rig is 48510-AF030. RA number is 24187244.
The crappy part is that it is all apart right now. Will go and get the new inner/outer tie rods installed. I was trying to get this all done while she was out of town but that window closes tomorrow.
 
Read this: 3rd Gen 4Runner Lift Information, small section on stock stuff.
Grab a 3rd Gen FSM off the net read it. Section SA-51 starts strut replacement.
At 300k I'd replace all springs n shocks with a aftermarket set for a 99 tall brand of your choosing.
Not a complicated job, easier you outside of rust belt, everything go right easy day job doing both ends first timer could be longer.
Front hiccup free most times, rear shock stem nuts in bad spot stem may need cutting off.

99 tall brand of your choosing???
I looked up 99 vs 96, both have listings for 15" or 16" wheel. She has 16" currently but rims are aftermarket. The RA listing for 96 shows as 16", 4WD, Front, Man Trans. The same part number for 99 says 15" 4WD, Man Trans. This is for ACDelco spring.
Do I want straight rate for progressive?
If we do taller spring can we remove the Revtek parts?

Sorry for all the questions, this was all sort of thrown at me. Too many of my own projects going on these days, Miata turbo install to finish up, then 80 F350 with a serious rear main seal issue. Never ending.
 
You want the spring that fits a 1999 with 16" Wheel. This will be the "Tall" Springs that everyone talks about. It's the tallest OEM spring that come on the 4runner.
 
Looks like I screwed up by buying the Gariel Ultra ReadyMount struts. They appear to be shorter than the stock Toy/Bilsteins that are on the rig now. The Revtek appears to be a preload spacer set up with another 1/4" steel plate on the top. What do I need to buy to maintain this amount of lift. She is going to put 35s on this thing no matter what I say about it. Looks like the Bilsteins on RockAuto are close to same price by the time I add the bellow and top mount. The number on the strut on the rig is 48510-AF030. RA number is 24187244.
The crappy part is that it is all apart right now. Will go and get the new inner/outer tie rods installed. I was trying to get this all done while she was out of town but that window closes tomorrow.
Looks like your 4Runner had Tundra TRD front shocks on there. That puts into question what springs are on there too (they are likely from the Tundra also?).

Pictures would help so we can see what you are working with...

-Charlie
 
According to USAA she has an SR5 if that helps at all. From the looks of the two strut assemblies sitting side by side the Gabriel must be for 15" wheels. Gabriel web site doesnt ask any wheel, engine, trans, rwd or 4wd questions. One size fits most I guess. I will go with the Bilstein 24-187244 as that looks to be the longer strut. The part number on the original unit does not come up on Camelback Toyota site.
Any preference on springs besides 16" wheel option? Straight rate vs progressive/variable? I am leaning towards the AC Delco 45H0368 spring and KYB strut mount SM5184.
 

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