Confirm my thoughts on dying master cylinder

cashmoney

New member
Driving to work this morning in heavy traffic and randomly my brake pedal would get so hard I could barely push it and as quick as it happened it would go back to being normal again. Brake fluid was flushed a month ago and looking at the past service records it looks like it may have been done last year but can't be for certain. Only thing I can think of is the master cylinder or a caliper or rear cylinder acting up.
 
Register to hide this ad
Could be wrong, but I thought the normal symptom of a falling master is when the name pedal sinks to the floor.
 
If there isn't any brake fluid leaking from the calipers and you know that there is NO air in the lines then yeah it's gotta be your master cylinder.
 
Brakes have been fine for the last month and even yesterday when I was driving it all over the place. Fluid level is still full and I haven't seen any drips lately. It's raining so everything looks wet underneath so hard to check for leaks right now.
 
Could be wrong, but I thought the normal symptom of a falling master is when the name pedal sinks to the floor.

No expert here either, but I think this is right. In my experience anyway, a soggy pedal has been a leak or bypassing master cylinder, a pedal that gets too firm is the booster. Check for a vacuum leak and if not maybe you've got a bad booster.
 
Did a test I read on yotatech. Pumped the brakes up and left my foot on the pedal when I started the car. Pedal didn't go soft which according to the thread I read means it's either vac related or the power booster. Let's hope it's just vacuum.
 
Yes.
While the engine is off, several pumps on the brake paddle makes it harder. right after starting the engine, the paddle must get softer. If not, brake booster or vacuum valve (located on the hose coming form the intake to the booster) is bad.
 
Not to thread jack from the OP, but I have an issue that is somewhat related. Basically, i have to pump the brakes to build up pressure in the peddle. For instance, when I first press the peddle to stop, it goes almost to the floor. If I release and press the peddle again, the brakes grab higher up (peddle doesn't have to move as far). Also when the engine is first fired up and the idle is higher or if driving up a hill with a higher RPM this is not as much of an issue, no inital pump of the peddle is required and the brakes grab right away. I have been trying to figure out if its the master cylinder, the booster, the vacuum check valve or just a vacuum leak.

It was suggested to me that it was possibly the rubber grommet thats on the peddle shaft that goes thru the firewall into the booster, which seems like a possible cause.

Sorry for the thread jack, hoping someone has an answer since this is somewhat related.
 
Driving to work this morning in heavy traffic and randomly my brake pedal would get so hard I could barely push it and as quick as it happened it would go back to being normal again. Brake fluid was flushed a month ago and looking at the past service records it looks like it may have been done last year but can't be for certain. Only thing I can think of is the master cylinder or a caliper or rear cylinder acting up.
if you have a vacuum booster, I would suspect it, or the check valve/grommet is leaking.

do yours have the regular MC, or the integrated electronic unit?
 
Not to thread jack from the OP, but I have an issue that is somewhat related. Basically, i have to pump the brakes to build up pressure in the peddle. For instance, when I first press the peddle to stop, it goes almost to the floor. If I release and press the peddle again, the brakes grab higher up (peddle doesn't have to move as far). Also when the engine is first fired up and the idle is higher or if driving up a hill with a higher RPM this is not as much of an issue, no inital pump of the peddle is required and the brakes grab right away. I have been trying to figure out if its the master cylinder, the booster, the vacuum check valve or just a vacuum leak.

It was suggested to me that it was possibly the rubber grommet thats on the peddle shaft that goes thru the firewall into the booster, which seems like a possible cause.

Sorry for the thread jack, hoping someone has an answer since this is somewhat related.
rear brakes are out of adjustment.
 
Found an intake leak pre throttle body and patched it. Problem has gotten worse. Now it goes out at any time at idle. Gonna pull out the valve and try and clean it while I wait on the new one.
 
Replaced the valve. No go. Brakes are getting worse. I need to check the vacuum with a gauge but I can pull the line off with no effort while the engine is running. There's vacuum but not a bunch.
 
After I saw you are in Austin I was hoping it was just the valve. Usually this only happens in colder climates.

The way I have checked boosters is to turn off the car and pump the pedal five times. With each pump the pedal gets firmer. Then hold the pedal and it should remain stiff.

I can't think of any other part of the braking system other than the booster which would cause the problems you are having.
 
And now I've lost all power brakes. Yee haw!!!

I can lightly put my foot on the brake pedal and hear air moving and the pedal firms up quick with the engine running. Glad I'm working an odd job today for a buddy. Money should pay for a new booster. Probably going to do the master cylinder, rear cylinders, and tundras while I'm at it. No sense in half assing it.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,111
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top