Considering Rust Treatment (converter) - thoughts?

[farmerjon]

I have some light rust on my chassis - I'm thinking of using some VHT Rust Converter - like this:

Amazon.com: VHT SP229 Rust Convertor Can - 10.25 oz.: Automotive

Thoughts? I'm not looking for anything pretty, just something I can use to kill the rust and perhaps even provide a good painting surface for some VHT Chassis paint as well...

Any tips or anything? Is it okay to spray just about anything under there or what? Any stuff I should tape or cover up under there?

pictures:

Thanks!

 

[spitvenom]

I dont know, but I want to know why its not for sale in Catalina lol

 

[spitvenom]

btw, id take wire wheel to the rusted areas first, then spray that, then id spray some bedliner or undercoating!

 

[farmerjon]

btw, id take wire wheel to the rusted areas first, then spray that, then id spray some bedliner or undercoating!

Yeah, I'll sand it and get the rough/loose stuff off first with some sandpaper and/or a wire brush... then I'll add the spray the rust converter, then with undercoating... It'll look awesome when done!

And yes, I wondered why it wasn't for sale in Catalina

 

[Nelsonmd]

I wouldn't use any of the cheap stuff if I were you. I have tried alot of different products, and the best is to use a rust protective paint like POR-15, rust bullet, or something like that. You don't have to strip all the rust off, just get rid of the flakes. If you strip the rust completely off, then you have to prep the metal with some phosphoric acid or the like to put oxides back on it (the rust itself will act as the oxide for the paint to adhere to).

I use POR-15. It is expensive and a pain, but it seems to be pretty widely accepted as the best. It has worked pretty well for me so far, but proper prep is important. I don't strip all the rust off anymore, I leave the base layer of it for the stuff to adhere to, seems to work better that way.

 

[T4R2014]

Don't bother. I tried a few different brands on some small metal parts and it ends up bubbling back up after a few months. I would use a wire brush and some rust dissolver gel and then prime and paint.

 

[Tango71]

I have always use Permatex rust gel with good results on everything from a rusted up firearm to a rusted up truck frame.

I did a several treatments over a period of week on a couple rust spots on my frame and it completely reformed it to a black metal. Then I just washed the frame and after it dried I sprayed it with some cheap undercoating. Plan is to oil spray it every year inside and out.

Where I live cars dont really rust but seeing as I'll be off roading this rig I want to keep it oiled.

 

[rebelbowtie]

use ospho then apply some good quality rust inhibiting primer and paint.

 

[rjaudi]

I used Eastwood rust converter, rust encapsulator and chassis paint and my 4runner turned out great. Definitely allocate a fair amount of time for this as drying times and prep make this a big job.

 

[1985taylor1925]

I wouldn't use any of the cheap stuff if I were you. I have tried alot of different products, and the best is to use a rust protective paint like POR-15, rust bullet, or something like that. You don't have to strip all the rust off, just get rid of the flakes. If you strip the rust completely off, then you have to prep the metal with some phosphoric acid or the like to put oxides back on it (the rust itself will act as the oxide for the paint to adhere to).

I use POR-15. It is expensive and a pain, but it seems to be pretty widely accepted as the best. It has worked pretty well for me so far, but proper prep is important. I don't strip all the rust off anymore, I leave the base layer of it for the stuff to adhere to, seems to work better that way.

This.

Farmerjon, Im not sure if you saw me response in my thread or not, but I gave you a link to POR-15 through Eastwood. They have a number of great products, and just like Nelson said, POR-15 has a reputation for basically being the best you can get. I used rust oleum protective enamel following the rust converter because it was convenient and Ive always had good experience with rust oleum. But theres no way its going to last like POR-15 will.

 

[iowajosh]

It is hard to get in all the bubbles to stabilize them. My new strategy is to fluid film everything that looks like that. It is easy to apply. And rust doesn't appear through it and demoralize you.

 

[1985taylor1925]

I have always use Permatex rust gel with good results on everything from a rusted up firearm to a rusted up truck frame.

I did a several treatments over a period of week on a couple rust spots on my frame and it completely reformed it to a black metal. Then I just washed the frame and after it dried I sprayed it with some cheap undercoating. Plan is to oil spray it every year inside and out.

Where I live cars dont really rust but seeing as I'll be off roading this rig I want to keep it oiled.

What oil do you use?

 

[farmerjon]

I see... This product goes directly onto the rusted surface? interesting...

http://www.por15.com/POR-15/productinfo/1GB/

If I want to cover the entire underside of my vehicle, should I buy a pint, quart, or a gallon?

Looks like I'll have to paint it on... That could be a serious pain, under my vehicle...

 

[T4R2014]

You might want to get one of the POR15 kits, not just the paint. I heard if you don't use all their prep products then it'll just flake off. The stuff is pretty pricey too. There's a kit from KBS coatings that I've heard good stuff about and its a bit cheaper than POR15 for a kit. I might order one of those.

 

[Nelsonmd]

You might want to get one of the POR15 kits, not just the paint. I heard if you don't use all their prep products then it'll just flake off. The stuff is pretty pricey too. There's a kit from KBS coatings that I've heard good stuff about and its a bit cheaper than POR15 for a kit. I might order one of those.

Yeah, you don't HAVE to buy their kit, but you have to degrease, then prep/etch, but you could use dish soap and phosphoric acid instead of marine clean and metal ready.