Dead fuel pump?
- Thread starter Cezar
- Start date
CPS wiring is fully repaired and re-loomed. No testing so I'll just assume I did everything right. Started re-assembly.
AC compressor back on. Far easier than removal but, my god. Those 4 bolts that hold the compressor on are at the extreme level of difficulty. I ended up using a large swivel-head ratchet breaker for the back 2. The top ended up being the harder of the two and probably took 15 solid minutes of 1-ratchet click at a time. Compounding the issue is the bolt would loosen up during tightening and necessitate going under the car to hand tighten the breaker-extension-socket assy because it was too loose for the ratchet to click. This was after cleaning all four bolts with WD40 and then brake cleaner, and choosing the two cleanest ones for the difficult spots.
Anyway so now I have the AC compressor and lines re-attached. Shortly thereafter will be the alternator (generator) which will be a piece of cake, and then repair and re-loom two new connectors that broke off during the intake removal, put the intake back on and bobs your uncle. Might even have it back driving tomorrow. Might.
AC compressor back on. Far easier than removal but, my god. Those 4 bolts that hold the compressor on are at the extreme level of difficulty. I ended up using a large swivel-head ratchet breaker for the back 2. The top ended up being the harder of the two and probably took 15 solid minutes of 1-ratchet click at a time. Compounding the issue is the bolt would loosen up during tightening and necessitate going under the car to hand tighten the breaker-extension-socket assy because it was too loose for the ratchet to click. This was after cleaning all four bolts with WD40 and then brake cleaner, and choosing the two cleanest ones for the difficult spots.
Anyway so now I have the AC compressor and lines re-attached. Shortly thereafter will be the alternator (generator) which will be a piece of cake, and then repair and re-loom two new connectors that broke off during the intake removal, put the intake back on and bobs your uncle. Might even have it back driving tomorrow. Might.
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Got most things back together, leaving the intake manifold. I have two wiring repairs to do on that. One looks easy and the other not so much as the connector broke off AT the connector.
Does anybody know what this even is?
Has two wire connector, colors are RED/BLACK and WHITE/BLACK.
I'm not seeing it in my wiring diagrams.
ChatGPT seems to think it's a resistor housing for some dummy plug. I'm wondering if I can run the truck without it.
Does anybody know what this even is?
Has two wire connector, colors are RED/BLACK and WHITE/BLACK.
I'm not seeing it in my wiring diagrams.
ChatGPT seems to think it's a resistor housing for some dummy plug. I'm wondering if I can run the truck without it.
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Also I want to call this out as great advice. Not relevant for my situation but a great checklist sort of item.
I assume this sort of car behavior is universal between makes?
I learned that one from our favorite youtuber Car Care Nut. He got a referral from another shop that missed this simple warning light check. That car could crank but not spark so not dissimilar to your issue.
Saga not quite over. I drove it two times on short trips to test it and then on a third trip of about 20 miles I got a CEL:
P0031 - Oxygen (A/F) Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
Almost certainly another wiring issue. I tried resetting the CEL and it came back instantly which is interesting--it implies this issue just popped up after a few miles so maybe new mouse damage? IDK.
P0031 - Oxygen (A/F) Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
Almost certainly another wiring issue. I tried resetting the CEL and it came back instantly which is interesting--it implies this issue just popped up after a few miles so maybe new mouse damage? IDK.
Oh so just to double check and spell this out if anyone knows:
Bank 1, Sensor 1 on a 1GR-FE is going to be a o2 sensor that runs from the passenger-side cat, into a wiring harness on top of the motor, and then following that into the ECU on the glovebox side of the interior?
Do I have this right?
Bank 1, Sensor 1 on a 1GR-FE is going to be a o2 sensor that runs from the passenger-side cat, into a wiring harness on top of the motor, and then following that into the ECU on the glovebox side of the interior?
Do I have this right?
I think o2 sensor wiring goes to the engine bay fuse box as well.
Doesn't look like it, but maybe the W wire. Guessing it's likely going to a ground though:
So this morning I pulled the intake so I can lay eyes on the o2 sensor wiring. I will never understand why a manufacturer would run wiring behind an engine when it could just run it along the top of the firewall.
From the o2 sensor to the connector looks fine, and from the connector to the harness also looks fine. You can't lay eyes on the entire run, but feeling by hand I could tell there are no breaks:
(the angle of the wire going into the sensor is a little weird but seems fine and I wasn't able to detect any breaks or damage)
Not finding anything I put the intake back on the truck and started it up and reset the CEL.
I proceeded to take two 10-mile trips at 60mph. The truck drove perfectly fine and the CEL did not come back.
WTF.
Our 02 sensors should have a heater circuit which is fused?? Anyways, when I was repairing my mouse damage I thought the wiring insulation was stiff and perhaps brittle in places. I found this in locations that were not particularly hot. Makes me wonder if the truck's service life limit is the wiring harness rather than anything mechanical.
This o2 sensor code (p0031) is driving me nuts.
Sometimes I can reset the code and it comes back within seconds and retrying doesn't help.
Other times I can reset it and drive the truck for a couple days and it goes into closed loop no problem.
Doesn't SEEM like a wiring issue, and again I inspected the wiring and didn't see any problems.
Any thoughts on a cause?
Sometimes I can reset the code and it comes back within seconds and retrying doesn't help.
Other times I can reset it and drive the truck for a couple days and it goes into closed loop no problem.
Doesn't SEEM like a wiring issue, and again I inspected the wiring and didn't see any problems.
Any thoughts on a cause?
That was my first thought but these sensors are BURIED in the engine.
How do access them, anyway?
Still baffled by this o2 sensor issue. Some days I can reset the CEL and it goes into closed loop and stays that way for a day, other days it is a no go.
Starting to think the sensor itself is just EOL. I wonder if the Kirkland
""""""""""""""""lint-free"""""""""""""""""""""
rags I used to close up the intake when I had the manifold off melted onto the sensor somehow.
Think I might replace it. Are the $40 knock off sensors actually bad or is that just a meme? This truck has reached the end of it's economically-productive life so I don't know that I can spring for a $200 bosch sensor.
Starting to think the sensor itself is just EOL. I wonder if the Kirkland
""""""""""""""""lint-free"""""""""""""""""""""
rags I used to close up the intake when I had the manifold off melted onto the sensor somehow.
Think I might replace it. Are the $40 knock off sensors actually bad or is that just a meme? This truck has reached the end of it's economically-productive life so I don't know that I can spring for a $200 bosch sensor.
toyo
Member
Got most things back together, leaving the intake manifold. I have two wiring repairs to do on that. One looks easy and the other not so much as the connector broke off AT the connector.
Does anybody know what this even is?
Has two wire connector, colors are RED/BLACK and WHITE/BLACK.
I'm not seeing it in my wiring diagrams.
ChatGPT seems to think it's a resistor housing for some dummy plug. I'm wondering if I can run the truck without it.
That is a noise filter. You will have one for each bank.
Resetting the CEL stopped working rapidly. Went ahead and replaced the passenger side o2 sensor. Instantly resolved the issue.
What's it do though? Car is running fine...
