Do I really need a new Pan-hard bar after lift?

Im relatively new to 4runners (Former Jeeper). I have a 05 v6 sport with all stock suspension. I am planning on lifting it this summer and am trying to get an Idea of exactly what I am going to need. I have been going through tons of threads on this forum and haven't seen much info on whether or not i will NEED a adjustable pan-hard bar after installing a Toytec FJ cruiser 3/2" lift with light racing upper control arms and wheel spacers. When I lifted my old grand cherokee I most definitely needed new front and rear trac-bars. is there anything else I should make sure to get along with this lift? I don't plan on doing anything too crazy once lifted. just trails and some light to medium offloading.
 
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No, if you are staying at or below 3" you should be fine! To be honest an upgraded uca isn't even required plenty of guys here are still running stock uca's, unless your gunna be wheeling hard! Then I'd maybe invest in some upgraded uca's... If I were you I'd get camburg or icon uca's ... Some of the guys here have experienced issues with the welds on light racing uca's ... But that's if you are gunna be doing serious wheeling, you can stay stock and be within factory alignment.
Good luck and cheers!
 
I second to that. I have fj springs, 5100 bilstein with 3/2 lift and stock uca. I'm upgrading uca to correct caster for improved straight line drive but that's me.
 
I wasn't too crazy about my alignment and driving when I had a 2.5/1.5 spacer lift on stock UCAs, but like they said above me, plenty of people have stock UCAs under 3". It drove mostly fine, but darted every so often. I upgraded UCAs recently and it's better now. I haven't upgraded my pan-hard bar.
 
I dont have any alignment issues with my current system. Sure, the caster is off a little but nothing bad. If I let go of the wheel under full lock, it returns about 75% back to center on its own, which in the scheme of things is pretty dam good with my current lift. I run my truck hard on and off road and I dont have any issues. Some day I might get a new upper control arm, but for the money, I can buy many more things.
I have my Bilsteins set at the second from the highest setting and Im running the Toytec/Eibach 2" list spring with no issues.
 
Thanks for the info guys. I think I'm going to skin the pan-hard bar for now and use the extra $ for UCAs anything else you guys can think of that in missing From this lift?
 
Most will do extended rear sway bar links, search for customish rear sway bar links on here. You can build some pretty nice ones from a few different parts on the cheap.

Diff drop and sway bar relocates are highly debated and as needed. Not necessary but cheap and easy if it makes you feel better about CV angles and front sway bar to lower coil bucket clearance.
 
Just to play Devils advocate here, my alignment was always just slightly off, even with a standard 3/2" lift, because the axle was not perfectly centered. It became much more noticeable, obviously, with the 4" lift. I would say this is vehicle and driver specific. If you notice a slight drift because the axle is slightly off center, and it bothers you, the price of the adjustable rear sway bar is "priceless!" If you don't notice or don't care, that's $300 better spent elsewhere. Rear links are an absolute must, not that I am biased :heh:!
 

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