Dreaded Crank not start

[cranknostart]

The tensioner is hydraulic. You have to remove it anyway, so that's why I'd just replace it.

New belt and tensioner are cheap insurance while you're in there.

If you feel excited, you could put a whole new timing kit in there, but I don't think it's necessary.

Thank you for the info. Need to weld up a tool remove the harmonic balancer.

Just got on rock auto and order a new Tbelt, Tensioner, and pulleys.

Thanks again.

 

[cranknostart]

**Update**

Finally got the Harmonic Balancer off. See album below.

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What I Noticed

• Lots of residue below the crank shaft, looks like it may be leaking.
• Also some residue near and around the tensioner. Can't tell what from.
• The belt was not correctly aligned. From the pictures you can see the right/left cam marks are not aligned. Could this have caused the jump?

Questions

• Whats the best way to go about fixing the Cam shaft leak?
• Can I spray everything down with brake cleaner and scrub it up? Would that damage anything?
• Should I grease the Cam shaft when everything is put back together? Looks like it had some mobile one grease on it.

New Tbelt, Tensioner, and pulley in the mail.

I appreciate everyones help.

 

[SumoRerun]

If you've got all the pulleys off (cam and crank pulleys, and it looks like the seals are weeping, I'd replace em. Cheap insurance and you wont have to do em again. The way I like to pull seals is get two small diameter sheet metal screws, drill two small holes in the seal (be careful so when you get through the seal you don't put a dent in anything, thread the screws in a good amount and slowly pull on the screws with a claw hammer.

Installing is way more important than removal. I like to use a silicone lubricant (Sil-Glyde is what I use) on the installation surfaces and the seal. If you've got a socket that is about the size of the diameter of the seal, you can use that to aid installing the seal. Otherwise, watch a few youtube videos on how to do it.

Brake Clean is my favorite libation when it comes to cleaning things. I buy it by the case because of that. Spray away and you'll be fine. I also don't think the camshaft needs greased. When the engine is running, it gets oiled from the oil pump and the camshaft seals keep the oil in. The mobil 1 grease you see might actually be fine particles of rubber.

 

[cranknostart]

If you've got all the pulleys off (cam and crank pulleys, and it looks like the seals are weeping, I'd replace em. Cheap insurance and you wont have to do em again. The way I like to pull seals is get two small diameter sheet metal screws, drill two small holes in the seal (be careful so when you get through the seal you don't put a dent in anything, thread the screws in a good amount and slowly pull on the screws with a claw hammer.

Installing is way more important than removal. I like to use a silicone lubricant (Sil-Glyde is what I use) on the installation surfaces and the seal. If you've got a socket that is about the size of the diameter of the seal, you can use that to aid installing the seal. Otherwise, watch a few youtube videos on how to do it.

Brake Clean is my favorite libation when it comes to cleaning things. I buy it by the case because of that. Spray away and you'll be fine. I also don't think the camshaft needs greased. When the engine is running, it gets oiled from the oil pump and the camshaft seals keep the oil in. The mobil 1 grease you see might actually be fine particles of rubber.

Thank you, saved me a trip to pickup a seal puller. Ordered new seals.

 

[cranknostart]

**Update**

Got the timing belt on and everything put together.
The Engine started, however it has a very ticking noise.

Video of ticking noise: YouTube

3 DTCs now appear:

P0300
P0304
P0308.

Swapped the Coil Packs and Spark plugs from working cylinder to non working, nothing changed.

Cleaned MAF, no change.

Anyone have any ideas for me to try next?

How likely is it the timing slips and damaged the motor?

 

[AuSeeker]

Got the timing belt on and everything put together.
The Engine started, however it has a very ticking noise.

Video of ticking noise: YouTube

3 DTCs now appear:

P0300
P0304
P0308.

Swapped the Coil Packs and Spark plugs from working cylinder to non working, nothing changed.

Cleaned MAF, no change.

Anyone have any ideas for me to try next?

How likely is it the timing slips and damaged the motor?

Do a compression test on cylinders 4 and 8, if the compression is off you most likely damaged valves when it jumped timing.

 

[cranknostart]

Got a compression tester. No compression on the 8th cylinder.
Looks like damaged valves from timing jump.
What are my options at this point?
Can I replace the Valve?

 

[AuSeeker]

Got a compression tester. No compression on the 8th cylinder.
Looks like damaged valves from timing jump.
What are my options at this point?
Can I replace the Valve?

You should be able to replace the valve/s....but be prepared for possible piston damage, what happens when these V8s jump timing is the valve/s hit the piston/s, the rattling you're hearing is most likely pieces of the valve and or piston jumping around in the cylinder, my next step would be to use a snake type camera and look into the cylinder/s to assess the actual damage further and then decide what it will take to fix it if it's worth it at that point, if you're lucky it just has a bent valve and it's being held opened and causing the cup on top of the valve stem at the cam to be bouncing around.

You may end up deciding to get another low mileage engine from a savage yard instead of fixing the damage.

 

[jbtvt]

Depstech makes a decent cheap borescope that works with phones, at least Android. What caused it to skip time - was there a splattered mouse under the timing cover, loose tensioner, seized pulley...?

 

[cranknostart]

Just grabbed a Depstech borscope off amazon, thanks..
Nothing really stood out the could've caused it to skip time.
There was a leak from the Crankshaft seal.
Hopefully it's only a bent valve, guess I should start looking around for another 2uz just in case.

 

[cranknostart]

Got a borescope and was able to look at the piston. See pictures below:

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There does appear to be one small area where it was scratched, other than that it does not appear to be too damaged.

Looks like my next step will be leak down test.

Question:

If the the issue is a bent valve how difficult is a valve replacement? Would it be better for me to just purchase a cylinder head?

 

[nevada]

Got a borescope and was able to look at the piston. See pictures below:

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There does appear to be one small area where it was scratched, other than that it does not appear to be too damaged.

Looks like my next step will be leak down test.

Question:

If the the issue is a bent valve how difficult is a valve replacement? Would it be better for me to just purchase a cylinder head?

if I was working on this job, id pull the heads and have them checked at a machine shop. have them redone as needed.

 

[jbtvt]

You can read about my recent valve job experience here -

Botched valve job

And not only that, but afterwards I checked the 3.0 heads I was getting rid of, recently redone by a different shop, and they were even worse. If I were doing it again I'd buy rebuilt from a shop that advertised pressure testing, and I'd still test them. You can see a vid I made in that thread of my test setup. A lot of iffy machine shops out there, apparently. Both these shops were well reviewed, established and full time, not fly by night operations either.