Drive shaft hitting tank skid.. Best Fix?

JWaldz

Moderator
So this has been bugging me.. My last outing it was brought to my attention that my drive shaft extremely rubs my tank skid when flexed. I tried beating the skid in flush with the tank but it didn't seem to last long. In the picture you can see what I believe is a drive shaft weight. I think that is what is hitting it the worse. Now I can always cut the portion of this skid off but then I run the risk of hitting the actual tank. Besides a tank relocation is there an easier fix. Some say a panhard drop would fix it, which is on my list of things to do. Others cut the skid or get a new aftermarket skid plate. What would be the best fix? I really need to extend my rear bump stops to reduce the amount of flexing which I think will help.

cefb2c25.jpg~original
 
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The ONLY way to fix it is by replacing the junk skid for one of mine. It has been designed to increase this clearance.
tankskid2.jpg~original


A PHB drop will help. This will allow the axle to arc in a more vertical direction. When lifted and using the stock bar, or extended, the axle will ride in a diagonal arc toward the gas tank when the axle compresses.
 
If it was me I would do the panhard drop because it's cheaper and it would solve your problem. Also, if you just trim the side of the skid, I think you'd be fine too. Rocks are most likely to attack from directly below; I think it would be unlikely that they would fly in sideways with enough force to do much damage to your gas tank.

However if you do hit you gas tank skid on rocks and want to upgrade that anyway, I'd grab Gerdo's gas tank skid. Then you solve both problems.
 
The ONLY way to fix it is by replacing the junk skid for one of mine. It has been designed to increase this clearance.
tankskid2.jpg~original


A PHB drop will help. This will allow the axle to arc in a more vertical direction. When lifted and using the stock bar, or extended, the axle will ride in a diagonal arc toward the gas tank when the axle compresses.

always digged your skid, and i know how much fab work/design/testing have gone into it, i just dont have the mula right now :(

i know this is totally off topic but how wide of a press break do you need to make a gas tank skid?
 
always digged your skid, and i know how much fab work/design/testing have gone into it, i just dont have the mula right now :(

i know this is totally off topic but how wide of a press break do you need to make a gas tank skid?

You can see it behind the stack of skids.
Stakofskids800.jpg~original
 
Johhny, get a Gerdo skid. It's way better than the stock one's clearance. I still had to trim mine a little, but I think that's because the links I was running added more flex than I even wanted (pinion angle to steep). I ended up switching back to stock rear LCAs with the Toytec skids and I don't hit it anymore. AFAIK, I think Gerdo even improved it and gave it even more clearance.

I sheared off the zerk on my u-joint and j-money did too. He was able to get what was left of mine out and we plugged it with a little bolt so the grease wouldn't fly out. If you haven't sheered yours off yet (doubtful it's still there the way you wheel) put a bolt in there now while you can easily. I just take the bolt out and thread a zerk in there whenever I want to grease it.
 
Gerdo, does that skid use the frame rails to mount to, or do you use the stock mounting arms?
It utilizes all of the stock frame mounts. The side frame mount is much wider so the fame doesn't collapse, like it does with the stock skid, when supporting the weight of the vehicle. (I will need to notch that side to mount with your Shrockworks sliders, which I will do N/C) They come with 3/16" bolt on legs for the rear two mounts.

Johhny, get a Gerdo skid. It's way better than the stock one's clearance. I still had to trim mine a little, but I think that's because the links I was running added more flex than I even wanted (pinion angle to steep). I ended up switching back to stock rear LCAs with the Toytec skids and I don't hit it anymore. AFAIK, I think Gerdo even improved it and gave it even more clearance.
.

They have been improved and are much tighter now (sorry Brian). Steve Shaffer and I worked together to work with his suspension, adjustable PHB, to have the extra clearance.

OP
You can either pound the stock skid inward or cut that side off. I will tell you that if you cut the side off, you will loose what little strength the skid has on that side. The bends and sides give it the little strength it has.
 
Good to know that it comes with 3/16th mounting arms, b/c the first thing to fail would be the stock mounting arms even if I was to use your gas tank skid. Mine are smashed to smithereens as of right now. Saving up for one of your gas skids right now!
 
My last outing, last weekend, I flexed mine a little too far I guess. The u-joint hit my tank skid, totally bent it down, ripped my grease fitting off, and now everytime I slightly flex, it hits. I did install the panhard bracket a couple days ago, but the ujoint bent my skid so far, that it still hits it on the slightest flex. I need to either cut it or bend it back in. Its annoying. I sure like your skid Gerdo! If I had the $$ id get one in a heartbeat.
 
why do you need a skid plate if you dont wheel ?

Never know when you may run over that stray branch the pokes a hole in the tank. Ive seen weirder happen. Not everyone considers rock crawling the only form of "wheeling."

In fact, up here in MI on Drummond Island, the water holes on the trails are notorious for having rocks sticking up but not above the water line. And the water holes are not that deep, 2' average.
 
why do you need a skid plate if you dont wheel ?



I do wheel and have a Bud Built.

The terrain in CA both Hollister and Anza-Borrego do not involve the same level of rocks or rock crawling as say CO / UT.

I've done all of hollister and you dont need a full bottom skid or a Bud built.

Adding all that weight makes a diff.
 
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