driveshaft question

Southtwnr

New member
I have a 99 2wd. 3.4 and was told by a driveshaft shop that the stock driveshaft is actually 2 pieces (inner and outershafts) and that there is a rubber piece that wears out and may be contributing to the clunk i attributed to U-joints. Is this true?

Also, on a 2wd what are the chances the driveshaft may be warped causing vibration? I havent owned the truck very long but the clunk and vibrations are getting worse.

I think probably u-joints but dont want to replace them if the rubber piece thing is true and if there is a chance the driveshaft is warped. Basically only $100 differene between having a shop replace U-joints and buying a new driveshaft with servicible u-joints and installing myself.
 
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2WD drive shaft is one piece and long about 2 meters. There are NO rubber mounts in it. The shop don't know what are they talking about.

Vibration can be due to a worn out U-joint. Usually it is the rear one (2WD got only 2 U-joints). You can check to see the quality of the U-joint.

I would say buy a good used drive shaft. I replaced a U-joint with all the care and it still vibrates and finally went with a good used one with 300K miles (I have plenty of drive shafts) and no more vibrations.

If you know how to change a tire, you should be able to get a drive shaft installed.
 
2WD drive shaft is one piece and long about 2 meters. There are NO rubber mounts in it. The shop don't know what are they talking about.

Vibration can be due to a worn out U-joint. Usually it is the rear one (2WD got only 2 U-joints). You can check to see the quality of the U-joint.

I would say buy a good used drive shaft. I replaced a U-joint with all the care and it still vibrates and finally went with a good used one with 300K miles (I have plenty of drive shafts) and no more vibrations.

If you know how to change a tire, you should be able to get a drive shaft installed.

That was my dilema. Have a shop replace U-joints not knowing if it will remove the problem or buy a new loaded drifeshaft and install myself. I am leaning towards buying the driveshaft.

Thanks for the input about the rubber piece....
 
Ok so i went ahead and bought a new driveshaft with u-joints and will install later today. My main question is now do I have to be concerned with indexing anything before installation?


Also for what it's worth there was a rubber type seal in the rear of the driveshaft. I will take photos later. I would have kicked myself replacing the joints on my own and still having the possible vibrations. I would think I messed up the installation. I will let you all know how it goes and if it fixes the problem.

Let me know about the indexing though please.
 
Ok so i went ahead and bought a new driveshaft with u-joints and will install later today. My main question is now do I have to be concerned with indexing anything before installation?


Also for what it's worth there was a rubber type seal in the rear of the driveshaft. I will take photos later. I would have kicked myself replacing the joints on my own and still having the possible vibrations. I would think I messed up the installation. I will let you all know how it goes and if it fixes the problem.

Let me know about the indexing though please.

That should be the dust seal that keeps dirt out of the splines
 
OK. I swapped out the driveshaft and what a difference!! FWIW the guy at the shop was correct about the rubber seal and the shaft at least appeared to be a "one insider another'' type shaft.

long story short once i broke those 4 bolts loose the rest was a breeze.

The truck drives sooo much smoother!! I dont know what the rules are about posting shop names but i would like to give these guys a shout out if OK.

I am very happy with my new shaft. easy fix overall.
 
OK. I swapped out the driveshaft and what a difference!! FWIW the guy at the shop was correct about the rubber seal and the shaft at least appeared to be a "one insider another'' type shaft.

long story short once i broke those 4 bolts loose the rest was a breeze.

The truck drives sooo much smoother!! I dont know what the rules are about posting shop names but i would like to give these guys a shout out if OK.

I am very happy with my new shaft. easy fix overall.

There is a seal, there is no rubber MOUNT. Big difference.

A two piece drive shaft I think most would understand as a shaft with a fixed center mount. What you have is a single drive shaft with a slider that can be separated into front and rear halves.
 
Last edited:
OK. I swapped out the driveshaft and what a difference!! FWIW the guy at the shop was correct about the rubber seal and the shaft at least appeared to be a "one insider another'' type shaft.

long story short once i broke those 4 bolts loose the rest was a breeze.

The truck drives sooo much smoother!! I dont know what the rules are about posting shop names but i would like to give these guys a shout out if OK.

I am very happy with my new shaft. easy fix overall.

South: Can you share where you got the new driveshaft from? I also have a 2WD and have a shake at 60-70mph, I've had all 4 wheels balanced and the truck aligned and still have it. Sounds like I have the same issue you had, I also have a click, click coming from the rear at slow speeds that stops when I give the truck some gas so I think it's U-joints, but could be that and warped shaft. I don't think it's brakes since it happens even when braking.

I might need to replace the shaft and U-joints also, please share where you purchased if you don't mind.

Thanks
 
There is a seal, there is no rubber MOUNT. Big difference.

A two piece drive shaft I think most would understand as a shaft with a fixed center mount. What you have is a single drive shaft with a slider that can be separated into front and rear halves.

I never mentioned a mount. At the time of the initial post i didnt know how to properly describe it. My other point was that it was as the shop described and that boosted my confidence the guy wasnt full of crap.
 
South: Can you share where you got the new driveshaft from? I also have a 2WD and have a shake at 60-70mph, I've had all 4 wheels balanced and the truck aligned and still have it. Sounds like I have the same issue you had, I also have a click, click coming from the rear at slow speeds that stops when I give the truck some gas so I think it's U-joints, but could be that and warped shaft. I don't think it's brakes since it happens even when braking.

I might need to replace the shaft and U-joints also, please share where you purchased if you don't mind.

Thanks

I picked up in person because they are local but they do ship. the reason i went this route is because it was only $100 more than having a shop replace the U-joints and the "seal" may have been part of the issue. I realize U-joints are pretty cheap but I only have regular hand tools and wanted to be sure if the vibration was still there I wasnt doubting my garage mechanic ability. the $100 was worth it for me. I will PM you the what i paid but here is the website
Welcome to DriveShaft Power Inc - Drive Shafts, Drive Shaft Repair & Modification 561-433-1200
 
I picked up in person because they are local but they do ship. the reason i went this route is because it was only $100 more than having a shop replace the U-joints and the "seal" may have been part of the issue. I realize U-joints are pretty cheap but I only have regular hand tools and wanted to be sure if the vibration was still there I wasnt doubting my garage mechanic ability. the $100 was worth it for me. I will PM you the what i paid but here is the website
Welcome to DriveShaft Power Inc - Drive Shafts, Drive Shaft Repair & Modification 561-433-1200

Got your PM and see the link, thanks.
 
There is a seal, there is no rubber MOUNT. Big difference.

A two piece drive shaft I think most would understand as a shaft with a fixed center mount. What you have is a single drive shaft with a slider that can be separated into front and rear halves.

Is there a way to check and make sure the drive shaft if ok? I am looking at buying a used one.
 
The only thing that you can check visually is to check the slip joint. There shouldn't be any rotation allowed where the two halves meet together. A driveshaft could be bent or out of balance and there's no way to tell unless it's mounted on a balancer or lathe.

OP, even though there are two pieces this is still considered a one piece shaft. A two piece would have a carrier bearing to support the length and another ujoint somewhere in the middle.
 
Join Date: August 2016
Im new to this website but figured it would be the best source of figuring out my 4runner problems. I have a 1996 Toyota 4runner Sr5 V6. I recently gave it a complete tune up. New Spark Plugs and Wires, Oil and Oil Filter, Air Filter, Coolant, Fanbelts and Radiator Hoses. My problem: Even after tune up, its power only increased a little and I seem to be burning way more gas then before. Any suggestions.? Please reply, anybody. Thanks.





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Join Date: August 2016
Im new to this website but figured it would be the best source of figuring out my 4runner problems. I have a 1996 Toyota 4runner Sr5 V6. I recently gave it a complete tune up. New Spark Plugs and Wires, Oil and Oil Filter, Air Filter, Coolant, Fanbelts and Radiator Hoses. My problem: Even after tune up, its power only increased a little and I seem to be burning way more gas then before. Any suggestions.? Please reply, anybody. Thanks.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Try resetting the PCM , do a leak down test, cylinder test. Make sure your problem isn't more then it is. ....... Is blowing white smoke out of exhaust ?
 
3rd Gen driveshaft 1998 2wd 4Runner 3.4L

Thought I would share where we bought the driveshaft we just replaced.
The owner & his staff we top-notch! All the promises they made came true...They could not have been accommodating. Supposedly Toyota OEM driveshaft's had a design flaw, Damon the owner @ AXEL Surgeons has corrected this with another driveshaft they build on premise.
The driveshaft, complete with U-joints included, total cost $285.00 (which incl shipping)
After installing & getting my 1998 back on the road...Ex-husband calls to say he just had u-joints done on his 1999 & problem not solved...He wants to trade in & get another vehicle.
All I could say was...."HOLD on a minute, call this guy & order it. Then have your son install & save yourself a whole boat load of money." Which he did & as I type our son is almost done with the install.

So for what it's worth, please consider this FANTASTIC manufacturer for all drivelines & diff's: Axel Surgeons of Bakersfield (661) 633-2303

NOTE:
Want to THANK EVERYONE on this forum! Have spent hours researching various issues that have crept up on my 1998 4Runner lately. She has been used & abused but with everyone's help on here, I now know she'll be good for another 250K. You guys make it so easy to understand & really go the extra mile with pic's & ref's.
This being my 1st post on here...I wanted to send all the contributors a big hug from California & will refer all to this website. Great resources @ toyota-4runner.org!
My ONLY go-to spot b4 I talk to a mechanic (haha) Thanks again!!!!!:trophy::girl::bravo:
 

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