Easier way to check fuel pressure

Hey everybody! Just wanted to share a easier way to check your fuel pressure. If you head down to your local pick and pull and cut off the hard fuel line that goes to the rubber fuel line and basically run "two" fuel lines with a T barb in the middle with the gauge hooked up. Make sure engine is cool, relieve your fuel pressure by loosening the fuel lines to the filter. It's a easier way to tap into the fuel system without the specially made banjo bolt fitting. I was experiencing issues with acceleration and fuel delivery. So i plumbed this in and it would hold 44lbs at idle on the gauge and fall flat and sputter during heavy acceleration. Please be careful when purging the filter and fuel lines! DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK! I am not held liable for any losses. Good luck and Cheers!
 

Attachments

  • 20191011_204918.jpg
    20191011_204918.jpg
    134.2 KB · Views: 34,016
  • 20191011_204843.jpg
    20191011_204843.jpg
    134.8 KB · Views: 31,472
  • 20191011_180251-2268x3024.jpg
    20191011_180251-2268x3024.jpg
    131.2 KB · Views: 20,386
  • 20191011_180259-1512x2016.jpg
    20191011_180259-1512x2016.jpg
    138.3 KB · Views: 20,783
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
If anyone is interested I could start making some of these up for pretty cheap. Since most pick and pulls only get like a buck a foot. Their would not be a gauge or T fitting included. Just the flared ends to screw into your fuel line and the bit of hose that runs to the T fitting. So far I think I should be able to make a few if anyone is interested. Not trying to make a whole lot of money. Just trying to help out some fellow t4r members because I know how the whole lack of fuel/stalling issue feels like.
 
Would the t-fitting with Shrader valve be included or would we need to buy extra parts to make this work. I already have a fuel pressure gauge and prefer to use the same kind of valve I find on other vehicles.
 
Would the t-fitting with Shrader valve be included or would we need to buy extra parts to make this work. I already have a fuel pressure gauge and prefer to use the same kind of valve I find on other vehicles.


OP

Their would not be a gauge or T fitting included.

Looks like no T valve...:)

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
 
Nice kit..:) that T fitting sst shouldn't be hard to find.
@Booomer Bob you have that SST number handy.

I saw it in one of the treads and curious if i can find one. :-)

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Hey everybody! Just wanted to share a easier way to check your fuel pressure. Go down to a local pick and pull and chop off the hard fuel line that goes to the rubber fuel line and basically run "two" fuel lines with a T barb in the middle with the gauge hooked up. Make sure engine is cool, relieve your fuel pressure by loosening the fuel lines to the filter. It's a easier way to tap into the fuel system without the specially made banjo bolt fitting. This does work the fuel pressure gauge held steady at 44lbs during idle and the levels changed during acceleration/driving. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK! I am not held liable for any losses. Good luck and Cheers!

Thanks for sharing J! I will have to make one of these.
 
3.4L Fuel (?) Issue | Page 2 | Tacoma World

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Besides the specialty SST fitting. This is the only other way to check fuel pressure. Or cut away at your timing belt cover to get a banjo bolt straight into the fuel rail. Or make one with a 90 degree bend in it. But even then their is very little if not no room to thread a banjo bolt into the end of the fuel rail. The system I have rigged up is nice because you could also plumb it in before your fuel filter as well to see what the pressure is before the filter. Just didn't see the point of trying to take the timing belt cover off, getting coolant everywhere and cutting away at the metal plate and butchering that all up. When its as simple as disconnecting the fuel line, reconnecting it with the same fittings/hose and a gauge inline and it works! As long as you can get that fitting loose to plumb it in you should be good.
 
Hey everybody! Just wanted to share a easier way to check your fuel pressure. Go down to a local pick and pull and chop off the hard fuel line that goes to the rubber fuel line and basically run "two" fuel lines with a T barb in the middle with the gauge hooked up. Make sure engine is cool, relieve your fuel pressure by loosening the fuel lines to the filter. It's a easier way to tap into the fuel system without the specially made banjo bolt fitting. This does work the fuel pressure gauge held steady at 44lbs during idle and the levels changed during acceleration/driving. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK! I am not held liable for any losses. Good luck and Cheers!


Does anyone know the sizes to these fittings?
Im trying to recreate this set up, but can’t find any info on those fitting sizes. Any help is greatly appreciated
 
Does anyone know the sizes to these fittings?
Im trying to recreate this set up, but can’t find any info on those fitting sizes. Any help is greatly appreciated

I went to a local pick and pull and cut the soft line fuel fittings inside the engine bay then disconnected them and just ran a piece of hose with hide clamps and you use that to extend your fuel lines and just add a pressure gauge with a T fitting. I haven't been on here in forever...man does time fly!
 
Mass airflow sensor- check if that is dirty or defective.
O2 or air fuel sensors- make sure those aren’t lazy or defective.
 
They also make a banjo bolt replacement with an 1/8” NTP thread in the head also. Which measures the fuel rail pressure after the regulator.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
What's the difference in measuring fuel pressure before or after the regulator?

I thought before the regulator would be constant and after the regulator would fluctuate with rpm/load
 
What's the difference in measuring fuel pressure before or after the regulator?

I thought before the regulator would be constant and after the regulator would fluctuate with rpm/load
Regulator is vacuum dependent and therefore load dependent so before the regulator it should be fairly stable, but increase with engine load (and as engine vacuum decreases). I'm not sure if there's even a spec for post regulator measurements as that fuel is returned to the fuel tank.
 
What's the difference in measuring fuel pressure before or after the regulator?

I thought before the regulator would be constant and after the regulator would fluctuate with rpm/load

I'm not completely sure about your question..I was just putting this out there because their hadn't been any alternatives to checking fuel pressure besides the specialized union bolt for the fuel rail. I ended up dropping the tank and putting in a new fuel pump and it solved my issue with the lack of fuel. It read constant during idle and under very slow throttle input but as soon as I gave it anymore it would drop to like 10-15 psi.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,111
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top