Electric Gremlin

[tatooweeny]

So I've had my 89 4Runner (22RE) now for awhile and I've had little electrical problems here and there, mostly from shoddy wiring from the previous owner (Stereo hack job), but every time I fix one problem, another arises. Let me elaborate.

So the first issue I had was the brake lights not working and the "brake" light on the dash permanently on. We found a pinched wire under the dash that fixed the brake lights not coming on, and when we adjusted the emergency brake, it seemed to fix the "BRAKE" dash light.

Then the "ALT" light along with the "BRAKE" light came on. They seemed to go on and off at the same time, which was weird to me. So we traced the issue to being the battery cables.

The previous owner had put a battery in that had the posts in the front, not the rear, so they had extended the cables using an extra set of wires loosely bolted together along with wrapping everything with electrical tape - very professional, Lol.

The cables were brittle so we replaced the battery with a yellow top Optima (plan on some cool accessories later), along with upgrading the battery cables to the starter, engine ground and chassis ground. That fixed the dash lights again.

Everything was now working including the rear window, which before replacing the battery had trouble rolling up and down.

Last night I'm driving home and the "CHECK ENGINE" light came on. When I stopped at a light, it was idling rough like it wanted to quit, but never did. When I got home I checked under the hood to see if I noticed anything out of place; was hoping for an unplugged wire or loose connection but couldn't find anything. I was tired and cranky at that point.

This morning I start her up and the light is still on, but idles smooth even under load. Still cannot find anything noticeable under the hood.

I plan on taking her to my local shop today to find out what the error code is. I'm hoping it's nothing major.

Any advice as to what it could be? I know it could be a million different problems, but maybe it's linked to something I've done.

 

[palmetto zuk]

So I've had my 89 4Runner (22RE) now for awhile and I've had little electrical problems here and there, mostly from shoddy wiring from the previous owner (Stereo hack job), but every time I fix one problem, another arises. Let me elaborate.

So the first issue I had was the brake lights not working and the "brake" light on the dash permanently on. We found a pinched wire under the dash that fixed the brake lights not coming on, and when we adjusted the emergency brake, it seemed to fix the "BRAKE" dash light.

Then the "ALT" light along with the "BRAKE" light came on. They seemed to go on and off at the same time, which was weird to me. So we traced the issue to being the battery cables.

The previous owner had put a battery in that had the posts in the front, not the rear, so they had extended the cables using an extra set of wires loosely bolted together along with wrapping everything with electrical tape - very professional, Lol.

The cables were brittle so we replaced the battery with a yellow top Optima (plan on some cool accessories later), along with upgrading the battery cables to the starter, engine ground and chassis ground. That fixed the dash lights again.

Everything was now working including the rear window, which before replacing the battery had trouble rolling up and down.

Last night I'm driving home and the "CHECK ENGINE" light came on. When I stopped at a light, it was idling rough like it wanted to quit, but never did. When I got home I checked under the hood to see if I noticed anything out of place; was hoping for an unplugged wire or loose connection but couldn't find anything. I was tired and cranky at that point.

This morning I start her up and the light is still on, but idles smooth even under load. Still cannot find anything noticeable under the hood.

I plan on taking her to my local shop today to find out what the error code is. I'm hoping it's nothing major.

Any advice as to what it could be? I know it could be a million different problems, but maybe it's linked to something I've done.

Just check the codes yourself. Heres some info from 4crawler. Really solid info over there. Check back in with what code you have so we can see what you got.

Reading the diagnostic trouble codes is very easy. You will need a paper clip to short the check connectors of the diagnostic connector. The diagnostic connector comes in two types. The early system is located on the inner-left fender well and is a round, green connector, usually located near the air cleaner. Simply jump the two terminals in this connector with the ignition switch in the "ON" position and the engine off. Later models, '87 and newer use a multiple terminal "DIAGNOSTIC" connector which is a small, rectangular-shaped gray "box", usually located near the right fender in the engine compartment. To get codes out of this type of connector, jump the "TE" and "E1" or "TE1" and "E1" terminals. Finding these terminals is easy as the inside cover of the diagnostic connector contains a schematic of the connector pin-outs. If the under hood emission decal (VECI) is still intact on your vehicle, the proper pins for this are outlined there as well.

The trouble codes will appear as flashes of the check engine lamp. Be sure the ignition key is on, the engine off, and your foot off of the accelerator when reading the codes.

On the early 22RE engines ('85-'87), there are only "one-digit" codes, that is the entire code will be counted out in 1 - 13 flashes.
Later model 22RE engines ('88-'95) can have two different code types may appear:
One-digit and two digit.
One digit codes have an approximate 4.5 second delay between flashes with the check engine light illuminating for about a half of a second.
Two digit codes have a 2.5 second delay between them.
For example a code two flashes the check engine lamp two times in a little over one second: I I.
If two single digit codes are stored, such as a code two and a code four, the lamp may flash as such: ....I I....I I I I. Crude examples but you get the idea.
Two digit codes are similar but will flash the lamp with the first number first and the second number last.
An example of a code twelve is I ....II and a code twenty four is I I..IIII.



Link to info on 4crawler........ Click Me!!

 

[tatooweeny]

Just check the codes yourself. Heres some info from 4crawler. Really solid info over there. Check back in with what code you have so we can see what you got.



Reading the diagnostic trouble codes is very easy. You will need a paper clip to short the check connectors of the diagnostic connector. The diagnostic connector comes in two types. The early system is located on the inner-left fender well and is a round, green connector, usually located near the air cleaner. Simply jump the two terminals in this connector with the ignition switch in the "ON" position and the engine off. Later models, '87 and newer use a multiple terminal "DIAGNOSTIC" connector which is a small, rectangular-shaped gray "box", usually located near the right fender in the engine compartment. To get codes out of this type of connector, jump the "TE" and "E1" or "TE1" and "E1" terminals. Finding these terminals is easy as the inside cover of the diagnostic connector contains a schematic of the connector pin-outs. If the under hood emission decal (VECI) is still intact on your vehicle, the proper pins for this are outlined there as well.

The trouble codes will appear as flashes of the check engine lamp. Be sure the ignition key is on, the engine off, and your foot off of the accelerator when reading the codes.



On the early 22RE engines ('85-'87), there are only "one-digit" codes, that is the entire code will be counted out in 1 - 13 flashes.

Later model 22RE engines ('88-'95) can have two different code types may appear:

One-digit and two digit.

One digit codes have an approximate 4.5 second delay between flashes with the check engine light illuminating for about a half of a second.

Two digit codes have a 2.5 second delay between them.

For example a code two flashes the check engine lamp two times in a little over one second: I I.

If two single digit codes are stored, such as a code two and a code four, the lamp may flash as such: ....I I....I I I I. Crude examples but you get the idea.

Two digit codes are similar but will flash the lamp with the first number first and the second number last.

An example of a code twelve is I ....II and a code twenty four is I I..IIII.







Link to info on 4crawler........ Click Me!!

Thanks for the info! So the code is 25, exhaust lean. Not good


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[palmetto zuk]

Thanks for the info! So the code is 25, exhaust lean. Not good


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i dont know if you have replaced the fuel filter since you have bought it but i would start there cause its easiest and needs to be done anyway. After replacing the filter then check your fuel pressure.

 

[tatooweeny]

i dont know if you have replaced the fuel filter since you have bought it but i would start there cause its easiest and needs to be done anyway. After replacing the filter then check your fuel pressure.

I'm also going to clean the mass air flow sensor tomorrow. I'll keep an update.


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[GeoRoss]

Could also be an O2 sensor problem. Try clearing it and see if it comes back.

I had a similar code 24/25 come up once in my 22re. I had just flogged it up an interstate going form 1900 ft to 7000ft elevation. I cleared the code and it hasn't come back and I've done the same drive several times, knock on wood.

 

[GeoRoss]

Also ALT and BRAKE coming on at the same time is a charging issue, alternator or the like.

 

[tatooweeny]

Could also be an O2 sensor problem. Try clearing it and see if it comes back.



I had a similar code 24/25 come up once in my 22re. I had just flogged it up an interstate going form 1900 ft to 7000ft elevation. I cleared the code and it hasn't come back and I've done the same drive several times, knock on wood.

Forgive my ignorance but how do you clear an O2 sensor? Do you need specialized equipment?


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[tatooweeny]

Also ALT and BRAKE coming on at the same time is a charging issue, alternator or the like.

Yeah I read that somewhere also, but the Toyota tech who's been doing this for 25+ years I talked to today said that was bs. I don't know who to believe anymore. Lol

What's funny is that after replacing the wiring from the battery to the starter, the dash light hasn't been back since.

Oh and today the brake light came back on. I tell you it's frustrating to think you've fixed something then it starts all over again. I'm going to replace the brake light switch tomorrow as well, maybe even the master cylinder cap sensor. I'm tired of playing games with it.

 

[tatooweeny]

So it turned out the Mass air flow sensor was dirty. I cleaned it out, cleared the code and everything seems okay now. If the check engine light does come on again, next will be to replace the O2 sensor. Also plan to relocate/replace the fuel filter this weekend, the current location under the intake manifold is ridiculous.

If anyone is curious, to reset the computer just disconnect both battery leads, then bolt the two together for 15 minutes.

 

[GeoRoss]

Forgive my ignorance but how do you clear an O2 sensor? Do you need specialized equipment?


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No, I meant clear the codes. Either pull the EFI fuse or disconnect the battery. This will reset the ECU and erase the codes.

Glad you figured it out.

 

[tatooweeny]

Over the weekend the check engine light came on again, so a friend helped me change the O2 sensor, as well as the fuel filter under the intake manifold. We also relocated the filter to the fender. The lines are just long enough.

Code was cleared and I've been driving it for a few hours now with no problem, no dash lights popping up. Hopefully it's fixed.

We did notice some caps missing on the vacuum switching valves. We just capped them. Hopefully they're not breather caps. If so I can always unplug them.




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