Electrical system shut down while driving

Just a guess, but suspect something to do with the radio. It has been seven months, but something could have vibrated causing an issue. I just thinking this since the engine still runs fine when it happens, and the radio was replaced.

I'm kinda thinking radio/wiring too. I had Advance Auto put a multimeter on today and battery/alternator checked out ok.
 
I'm kinda thinking radio/wiring too. I had Advance Auto put a multimeter on today and battery/alternator checked out ok.

Question: During these "blips", do the gauges actually drop out, or just the back lighting? Also, does the blower motor for the HVAC keep blowing?
 
Question: During these "blips", do the gauges actually drop out, or just the back lighting? Also, does the blower motor for the HVAC keep blowing?

I'm pretty sure the needles on the gauges drop all the way down, not just the back lighting. The whole "shut off and restart" can't be more than a second.

Today for the first time, the truck wouldn't start. Tried to crank it twice with no juice at all. Third try it cranked over.

I spent 20 minutes with flash light scouring the engine bay from above and under the truck to look for wiring issues and saw none. Multimeter confirmed no issues with battery or alternator.
 
I'm pretty sure the needles on the gauges drop all the way down, not just the back lighting. The whole "shut off and restart" can't be more than a second.

Today for the first time, the truck wouldn't start. Tried to crank it twice with no juice at all. Third try it cranked over.

I spent 20 minutes with flash light scouring the engine bay from above and under the truck to look for wiring issues and saw none. Multimeter confirmed no issues with battery or alternator.

I can't tell if the HVAC stops or not it happens so quickly.
 
Mine did the same exact thing....except every light on the dash lite up, everything dropped out for a second, came back on.

Radio was resetting often for about a month....hasn't done it lately.

16' ORP
 
It might not be the case, but I'd check for possible Toyota recalls.
There's been two that I know of lately.

1. for the faulty fuel pump
2. for the safety equipment.

again, might not be the case, but still worth checking.
 
I'm pretty sure the needles on the gauges drop all the way down, not just the back lighting. The whole "shut off and restart" can't be more than a second.

Today for the first time, the truck wouldn't start. Tried to crank it twice with no juice at all. Third try it cranked over.

I spent 20 minutes with flash light scouring the engine bay from above and under the truck to look for wiring issues and saw none. Multimeter confirmed no issues with battery or alternator.
Have you tested the vehicle for any error codes for the electrical system? You could stop by Auto Zone or O'Rielly's and use their code reader. It would seem that an alternator could be going bad but not necessarily be displaying the problem all the time.
 
Check battery terminals. Same thing happened to my X5. Loose connection.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The same exact thing is happening to me. I bought my 2006 limited with a compustart remote start installed. I still cannot figure it out, have you solved it?

Also only happens while driving at highway speeds - usually when braking but at times when just cruising.

Same exact issues, radio reboots, the dials drop for a second. Cannot tell if HVAC reboots since it is so quick but not a full engine power outage.
 
Electrical fluctuations

I’m having basically the same issue. My volt meter jumps up and down and when it finally drops below 9 volts everything shuts off for less than a second and then powers right back up. No chewed wires that I’ve notice and we don’t have rats in Alberta. I’m at a loss.

December 12, 2023 - YouTube
 
I have aftermarket led headlights and a light bar installed for the last 7 years but this issue has only started 3 months ago. It even happens when the leds are off.
 
First things first.
To clean your battery connections, best is to undo them and dip the cable ends into a baking soda solution and wash the battery posts with same solution.
When all bubbling stops they are clean.
I like to coat the posts with copper antiseize to prevent bad connections down the road.
Battery connections don't always look bad.

Now you can trouble shoot further.
 
Twice in the last 7 days while driving my 4Runner, the truck's electrical system has completely "shut off" for just about a second (maybe less) and immediately turned back on. Each incidence happened while driving, each time lasting for a quick second - gauges and displays go out, radio off, etc. Power returns immediately after this "blip".

I have a 1 year old battery, no mods under the hood. New head unit radio installed last summer but that was at least 7 months ago and this gremlin just started. I do have LED backup lights I installed in late December. No recent 4wheel driving or off road use.

Any ideas or suggestions?

Thanks!
Pete

I am having the very same issue. 2011 4runner. Checked all battery terminals, checked all wiring and fuses. Only Seems to happen after vehicle has been running for a few minutes and when I hit the brake pedal. Has anyone found a fix?
 
I am having the very same issue. 2011 4runner. Checked all battery terminals, checked all wiring and fuses. Only Seems to happen after vehicle has been running for a few minutes and when I hit the brake pedal. Has anyone found a fix?

Worth getting your alternator output checked. That was the cause of mine.
 
Electrical Troubles 4RUNNER

Hi CentconPete,

I've had the very same thing happen to my 2012 4Runner LE, back in 2019. The prognosis was a "Yaw rate acceleration, Centerpoint calibration" was in order; see link below to how it's done:

Yaw Rate and Acceleration Sensor Zero Point Calibration

My tachometer & speedometer would drop out when I stepped on the brake and the ABS & slip light stayed on constantly... but that all changed when I did this calibration!

Best to you, rigtec!
 
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I am having the very same issue. 2011 4runner. Checked all battery terminals, checked all wiring and fuses. Only Seems to happen after vehicle has been running for a few minutes and when I hit the brake pedal. Has anyone found a fix?

It just quit happening for me. I never got it diagnosed. It only happened 3-4 times and always when I was driving at least 40+mph.

I was hit and truck was totaled about 8 months later.
 
Worth getting your alternator output checked. That was the cause of mine.

And mine.

Was originally loose terminals. Addressed that and it worked for a bit.

Then the alternator went. Dealer replaced under extended warranty, even with the ARB dual and an accessory fuse panel tied to the battery. They even covered the battery.

Warranty paid for itself already.
 
It just quit happening for me. I never got it diagnosed. It only happened 3-4 times and always when I was driving at least 40+mph.

I was hit and truck was totaled about 8 months later.

Were you driving by MacDill AFB while they were testing an EMP “Device”?
 

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