Engine oil flush major problem ???

Devbot said:
That's how CEL's work - if it is on, it means a code is being thrown (long story short.) Any code it gives you, investigate what it is. The scanner may or may not give you a brief description, or it may just show you the code and leave you to google it. Sometimes you have to use your imagination and knowledge of how a vehicle works, depending on what code it is. For example if you got P0171, it could be O2 sensors (faulty or failed), MAF (dirty, faulty or failed), vacuum leak, etc. so it helps to start with the easiest fix and work your way up, maybe using the OBD to check if the afflicted parts are getting proper voltage. But (for example) if you have P0325, it only means one thing, that particular knock sensor is shot - no if, ands, or buts about it
It sounds much more complicated than what it is, and some people can find code scanning unnecessarily daunting, so I always recommend searching on google as a first step; usually something like "4Runner
Code: 
"[/I] or [I]"[year] 4Runner [code]."[/I] A while back I was told to google things as a first step because "chances are there's been a ton people in your position, far dumber and less capable than you," and it's very rarely failed me
OBDs will show you all recent codes that have been logged in your ECU. Sometimes your vehicle will log codes without tripping the CEL (called "pending codes"), but for your sake that's not really relevant here. Whatever the scanner tells you, post it here and search it up[/QUOTE]

Thank you Devbot. That helps a great deal.  When I buy a scanner, I'll talk about it some more.  One rather queer thing, I just tested the battery. It had only 11.3 volts.  I say odd because I replaced the alternator last month and it was putting out 13.2 volts at idle
I can't help but wonder if the low voltage was the cause of the engine shutting off while I was doing the engine flush . Certainly it is the cause of the engine not even trying to restart right now. 
IF I had a low voltage do you think that that MIGHT have caused the check engine light to come on ? Maybe a sensor was not getting enough voltage to work ????
Right now the battery is being trickle charged overnight.
Click to expand...
 
Traveler74 said:
...tested the battery... only 11.3 volts...
I can't help but wonder if the low voltage was the cause of the engine shutting off while I was doing the engine flush . Certainly it is the cause of the engine not even trying to restart right now.
IF I had a low voltage do you think that that MIGHT have caused the check engine light to come on ? Maybe a sensor was not getting enough voltage to work ????...
Click to expand...

Yes, yes and yes.

Bad battery if alternator is putting out over 13v.

Remember to finish the engine gunk treatment, haha....
 
jgue467 said:
Yes, yes and yes.

Bad battery if alternator is putting out over 13v.

Remember to finish the engine gunk treatment, haha....
Click to expand...

good heavens. the battery is only 2 months old. WOW ! It is certainly possible that I have misremembered about the voltage AT IDLE. Maybe I am remembering the voltage when I Rev'd up the engine, just after I changed the alternator a month ago. At age 74 I do forget stuff.

Yes, if the truck starts tomorrow after an overnight trickle charge, I'll keep it running for 5 minutes to finish the engine flush. Afterward I plan on changing oil with 5 W-30, 1 quart of Rislone engine treatment and a new oil filter. run that for a month or so, and repeat with another oil change.
 
Last edited:
UPDATE: The mystery deepens.

After having the battery recharged to a full 12.6 volts, the truck started right up. (so, it was not seized up). As I had only done 3 minutes of the 5 minutes required to do the engine flush, I ran the engine for 2 more minutes. Just as I was about to turn the engine off, it suddenly stopped dead and would not restart.
The battery had been disconnected for 3 days during this week-end holiday. I wonder if during that time the computer somehow rebooted itself ? ???Maybe I'll disconnect the battery again and let it sit for a few days to see if the engine will restart. Hell, I'm about as confused as possible as to what is happening.

In any event, I drained the crank case and changed the oil to 5W-30 with one quart of Rislone oil treatment, and a new oil filter.
PS: after the engine flush, the oil was very black, even though it had only 50 miles on it. So, lots of sludge.
 
If the engine restarted after you charged your battery, and then died again while running, it sounds like the alternator isn’t charging the battery. The ecu doesn’t really reset or anything after disconnecting the battery so I doubt that’s it
 
RandyBobandy said:
If the engine restarted after you charged your battery, and then died again while running, it sounds like the alternator isn’t charging the battery. The ecu doesn’t really reset or anything after disconnecting the battery so I doubt that’s it
Click to expand...

I also considered the alternator,(which is new) but AFTER the engine shut off I checked the battery voltage, It was STILL reading 12.5 volts. Hmmm.
 
I think you have a bad connection somewhere.

A failing crank sensor will stop an engine but it will still turn over. If yours doesn’t turn over you need to start looking at the ignition switch etc.

Do you have dash lights when the engine dies?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
19963.4lsr5 said:
I think you have a bad connection somewhere.

A failing crank sensor will stop an engine but it will still turn over. If yours doesn’t turn over you need to start looking at the ignition switch etc.

Do you have dash lights when the engine dies?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Yes, I still have dash lights when the engine shuts off.
I just double checked the battery voltage, it is still reading 12.6 volts.
Even if there was no alternator in the truck it should still start and run for awhile.
Just to run a test, I disconnected the battery and I'll try to start it again tomorrow.
I was planning on removing the throttle body, and give it a good cleaning with CRC throttle body cleaner. I could be wrong but I think I read somewhere that if the throttle body is dirty it can cause the engine to shut off when idling.
 
Last edited:
19963.4lsr5 said:
It turns over and doesn’t start after it shuts off?
Click to expand...


This morning I put the recharged battery back in and the truck started right up. But, after running for 2 minutes it shut off without even a shudder.
I tried to restart it but it would not start or even crank over. . That is EXACTLY the same thing that happened last week.
PS: the battery is currently registering 12.6 volts.
I'm no mechanic but it seems likely that the computer is sending bad info ????
 
19963.4lsr5 said:
How about an alarm system or remote start installed in your rig


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I’ll add to this comment, but may be unrelated.

My son’s 2009 Corolla had an aftermarket remote start. He began experiencing weak battery symptoms overnight , etc., even after replacing the battery. Then the starter began staying energized briefly after the car was started (confirmed by dealership). I decided to look for a parasitic drain, with the key out of the ignition. I saw between 200-250 mA, which is a little high. While troubleshooting, the needle on my meter pegged twice, and the fuse blew in the meter. The starter also engaged briefly once with the key in the accessory on position. I located and removed the two 30-amp fuses for the remote start. He had the starter replaced, and no problems since. Take this FWIW.
 
19963.4lsr5 said:
How about an alarm system or remote start installed in your rig


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I have an alarm system in the truck, but right now it doesn't work. In any event I doubt that it could possibly cause the engine to suddenly shut of while running.
 
If it has a disable feature that would prevent the engine from starting it would also stop it.

A remote start will shut the engine off a few minutes after it’s started remotely if a door wasn’t opened or the ignition turned to run.

You seem to elude that the engine runs 2 min and stops and your starter doesn’t work. And it is pretty much like it always runs the same amount of time then just dies.

Run it till it stops and time it. Then disconnect the battery for at least 1 min and hook it back up and see if it will start.

When nothing makes sense do what doesn’t make sense.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
19963.4lsr5 said:
If it has a disable feature that would prevent the engine from starting it would also stop it.

A remote start will shut the engine off a few minutes after it’s started remotely if a door wasn’t opened or the ignition turned to run.

You seem to elude that the engine runs 2 min and stops and your starter doesn’t work. And it is pretty much like it always runs the same amount of time then just dies.

Run it till it stops and time it. Then disconnect the battery for at least 1 min and hook it back up and see if it will start.

When nothing makes sense do what doesn’t make sense.
Click to expand...


I do NOT have a remote start on the truck.

The starter works. The problem is that the truck turns off after a 2-3 minutes of running.
Tomorrow morning I'll reconnect the battery and try to start it. Strange as it may seem, it will not restart when it shuts off. BUT, if I disconnect the battery overnight, it will start the next day. Then AFTER running 2-3 minutes it shuts off AGAIN.

Is there any possibility that a dirty throttle body and/or a malfunctioning IAC could cause the engine to shut off after running for 2- 3 minutes ? I hate to throw parts at it but I'm getting desperate.
 
Last edited:
Try disconnecting the battery for 30-60 seconds and giving it a whirl. Your ECU will clear codes and sounds like that's what's allowing your vehicle to start. What's the word on those codes, were you able to pull them? That's still your best lead. Even if you weren't able to find an OBD in English, that AutoZone should still scan your car free of charge if you ask them.
No, a new TB/IAC will not help. Your problem is almost certainly electrical, I'd say. Don't get all frizzled and take a shotgun approach to it, you'll only dig yourself an unnecessary hole.
You could also snag an ECU from a twin vehicle and see if that makes a difference, can usually be had on ebay for $100 or so and you can easily sell it off if you don't need it. Just make sure it's from an identical vehicle (year, trim, 4x4 - can't remember if cali vs federal emissions matters, so best just to take the exact part number off your current ECU and search, should be blatantly on the front label)
 
Last edited:
Devbot said:
Try disconnecting the battery for 30-60 seconds and giving it a whirl. Your ECU will clear codes and sounds like that's what's allowing your vehicle to start. What's the word on those codes, were you able to pull them? That's still your best lead. Even if you weren't able to find an OBD in English, that AutoZone should still scan your car free of charge if you ask them.
No, a new TB/IAC will not help. Your problem is almost certainly electrical, I'd say. Don't get all frizzled and take a shotgun approach to it, you'll only dig yourself an unnecessary hole.
You could also snag an ECU from a twin vehicle and see if that makes a difference, can usually be had on ebay for $100 or so and you can easily sell it off if you don't need it. Just make sure it's from an identical vehicle (year, trim, 4x4 - can't remember if cali vs federal emissions matters, so best just to take the exact part number off your current ECU and search, should be blatantly on the front label)
Click to expand...

I was not able to buy an OBD 2 in Mexico. So, I have no info I'll either go into San Diego to buy one or get it on Amazon.
Since I can't drive the truck to Auto Zone they can not do the scan.
Ebay has only one USED ECM for my '96 2 wheel drive, automatic V-6, price $179. new $468
I'll hold of on that until I have exhausted all other possibilities,
 
Last edited:
Oh yeah, I forget not everybody has the option to tow their car lol having the car there is definitely a crucial step for them to scan it. If it's convenient enough I'd snag one from the states so you have one in your hands quickly. Nothing wrong with getting one offline, it would just take longer and I assume you want it asap. Regardless I doubt you'll get far without one; can't start hunting gremlins if you don't know where to look
 
If you have an android phone getting a OBD BT dongle and installing Torque Pro would be very helpful.

Whatever scanner you get it needs to read live data.

It’s very odd that after your engine shuts off your starter also doesn’t work. The starter circuit is very simple. No computer is involved except the security system if yours came with one from the factory.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You could just post in the classifieds here if you’re looking to buy an ECU, I sold my 97 auto ECU for like $15, there isn’t a whole lot of demand for auto trans ECUs so they aren’t very quick to sell. I wouldn’t spend more than maybe $50 trying that route, the ECU on these vehicles is very well protected and very rarely fails.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 377 (members: 3, guests: 374)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,307
Messages
3,554,054
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top