Engine oil flush major problem ???

If you have an android phone getting a OBD BT dongle and installing Torque Pro would be very helpful.

Whatever scanner you get it needs to read live data.

It’s very odd that after your engine shuts off your starter also doesn’t work. The starter circuit is very simple. No computer is involved except the security system if yours came with one from the factory.

I ordered an OBD-2 from Amazon. it'll be a week before it gets here. However, I haven't the faintest idea of if it reads "live data" (whatever the heck that is ?)

The more I think about it, the more I think it MAY be possible that the cause of the engine shutting off MIGHT be a problem in the security system. Do I understand correctly that SOME security systems could cause the engine to start but shut off AFTER a few minutes ? Is that possible ?
 
I ordered an OBD-2 from Amazon. it'll be a week before it gets here. However, I haven't the faintest idea of if it reads "live data" (whatever the heck that is ?)

The more I think about it, the more I think it MAY be possible that the cause of the engine shutting off MIGHT be a problem in the security system. Do I understand correctly that SOME security systems could cause the engine to start but shut off AFTER a few minutes ? Is that possible ?

"Live Data" is just information in real time... so you can see the coolant temp going up from a cold start. Pretty basic stuff for OBDii stuff available today.

As for the security, there are zero stock (factory installed systems ) that shut off after allowing a start. MAJOR safety issue, imagine starting to drive away and then having it shut down on you? For that reason, I doubt there are any aftermarkets that do it either with the only sorta exception being a remote-start kit that shuts down if the ignition isn't on and you hit the brakes (had that with a Viper alarm on my T100). But, given that you had to engage the brake to shift out of park on an auto-transmission (and manual trans options having a similar lock-out for the clutch), you still couldn't drive anywhere. These systems also have a time-out period of like 5~10 minutes, where they shut themselves off if you don't get in and do something, but 2~3 minutes would be too short (and mine may have actually been upwards of 15 minutes, never tested it intentionally).

I'm with the others, you have some sort of a check-engine/code issue that's telling the ECU to shut down. OR, you have a failing electronic module somewhere that's getting hot when running and eventually has too much resistance (due to heat) to function properly.
 
Didn’t you mention earlier that you had to hold the rpms at 2000 while doing the flush cause it won’t idle? Maybe there’s a clue in that direction.
 
"Live Data" is just information in real time... so you can see the coolant temp going up from a cold start. Pretty basic stuff for OBDii stuff available today.

As for the security, there are zero stock (factory installed systems ) that shut off after allowing a start. MAJOR safety issue, imagine starting to drive away and then having it shut down on you? For that reason, I doubt there are any aftermarkets that do it either with the only sorta exception being a remote-start kit that shuts down if the ignition isn't on and you hit the brakes (had that with a Viper alarm on my T100). But, given that you had to engage the brake to shift out of park on an auto-transmission (and manual trans options having a similar lock-out for the clutch), you still couldn't drive anywhere. These systems also have a time-out period of like 5~10 minutes, where they shut themselves off if you don't get in and do something, but 2~3 minutes would be too short (and mine may have actually been upwards of 15 minutes, never tested it intentionally).

I'm with the others, you have some sort of a check-engine/code issue that's telling the ECU to shut down. OR, you have a failing electronic module somewhere that's getting hot when running and eventually has too much resistance (due to heat) to function properly.

Thank you, Brian. That is a huge help. Good job of explaining the alarm system.
 
Didn’t you mention earlier that you had to hold the rpms at 2000 while doing the flush cause it won’t idle? Maybe there’s a clue in that direction.


Yes, that makes sense. When my OBD-2 arrives it may tell me what is happening. My original plan was to pull the throttle body and give it a good cleaning, but I'll wait until my OBD2 arrives.
 
Yes, that makes sense. When my OBD-2 arrives it may tell me what is happening. My original plan was to pull the throttle body and give it a good cleaning, but I'll wait until my OBD2 arrives.
Wouldn't hurt to do it in the mean time, it's pretty easy. Unless you're taking the IAC off remember to keep it upside down to prevent buildup; and if you ARE taking it apart, remember to grab the proper IAC gasket as they are not reusable (especially with age). I have gotten away with reusing my TB gasket a couple times but I wouldn't recommend it if you haven't replaced it before, both gaskets should only be a couple bucks anyways
 
Wouldn't hurt to do it in the mean time, it's pretty easy. Unless you're taking the IAC off remember to keep it upside down to prevent buildup; and if you ARE taking it apart, remember to grab the proper IAC gasket as they are not reusable (especially with age). I have gotten away with reusing my TB gasket a couple times but I wouldn't recommend it if you haven't replaced it before, both gaskets should only be a couple bucks anyways

yes, I have already ordered the TB gasket and an aftermarket IAC with a new gasket. I just hope that I can get the IAC off without stripping the heads on those screws. I hear that they are sometimes a bear to get off. I also ordered a JIS screwdriver just for that job.
 
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