Engine Oil, Transmission Fluid, Rear Diff Fluid, Recommendations?
- Thread starter EveningCommuter
- Start date
EveningCommuter
New member
Thank you for the advice Brodozer.
I called a local shop and they mentioned the same thing. They said that if I wanted the fluid to be changed and the current fluid is too dark I would have to bring it in so they can drop the pan, replace the filter, reseal the pan and exchange the fluid completely.
I called a local shop and they mentioned the same thing. They said that if I wanted the fluid to be changed and the current fluid is too dark I would have to bring it in so they can drop the pan, replace the filter, reseal the pan and exchange the fluid completely.
I take my own advice....my newly acquired ‘98 SR5 2wd has 205,000 miles on it. I just changed all the fluids, except transmission (it looks good, smells ok, is red (enough) and shifts well).
I put 75w90 Valvoline synthetic in the rear diff. 2.6 quarts. Valvoline Maxlife high mileage 5w30 in the crankcase. 5.5 quarts. Swapped in Maxlife ATF in the power steering pump. And new DOT4 brake fluid.
I put 75w90 Valvoline synthetic in the rear diff. 2.6 quarts. Valvoline Maxlife high mileage 5w30 in the crankcase. 5.5 quarts. Swapped in Maxlife ATF in the power steering pump. And new DOT4 brake fluid.
Firstoneman
Junior Member
About using a gear oil for rear diff: if you use 85w140 will it reduce your mpg vs using 75w90?
Here in Mozambique, the guy who is purported to be THE diff guy, says to use 85w140 in our vehicles. However, the guys who rebuilt my engine in SA and have done some other services and repairs for me, won't admit you can use anything different than Toyo spec for the vehicle (I'm sure it's liability issues). And I have one guy who manages a well-known 4x4 modding shop who says to use the 75w90.
So when I heard the Moz guy said to use the 85w140 I thought to look up in the forum. And also had a conversation with a friend and he mentioned the mpg issue. So I'm putting it out here.
Thanks much for thoughts.
David
Here in Mozambique, the guy who is purported to be THE diff guy, says to use 85w140 in our vehicles. However, the guys who rebuilt my engine in SA and have done some other services and repairs for me, won't admit you can use anything different than Toyo spec for the vehicle (I'm sure it's liability issues). And I have one guy who manages a well-known 4x4 modding shop who says to use the 75w90.
So when I heard the Moz guy said to use the 85w140 I thought to look up in the forum. And also had a conversation with a friend and he mentioned the mpg issue. So I'm putting it out here.
Thanks much for thoughts.
David
19963.4lsr5
New member
I use 75-90 synthetic in the front diff and synthetic 75-140 in the rear diff.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Firstoneman
Junior Member
Do you know if there's any drop-off in mpg using that 75w140 in the rear end?
Thanks much.
jgue467
Senior Member
I run the wallymart 75-140 full synth everywhere.
No diff in mpgs....Enjoy the Runner. :cowboy:
19963.4lsr5
New member
I didn’t notice any. However, I drive a S Series Saturn that gets 40mpg in the dead of winter as my DD. I get 17 to 20mpg on the 4Runner in my normal driving.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
mtbtim
Elite Member
Here's what I'm using in my rigs now. I use to run conventional oils but now I'm running full synthetic across the board.
*Castrol EDGE Extended Performance 5W-30 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil
Amazon.com: Castrol 03087 EDGE Extended Performance 5W-30 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil, 5 Quart: Automotive
*Valvoline Max Life Full Synthetic ATF (For transmission and power steering)
Amazon.com: Valvoline 773775-3PK Auto Trans Fluid, 3. gallons, 3 Pack: Automotive
*Red Line 75W90 GL-5 Full Synthetic Gear Oil (For transfer case and both differentials) Amazon.com: Red Line 57905 75W90 GL-5 Gear Oil - 1 Gallon: Automotive
*Castrol EDGE Extended Performance 5W-30 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil
Amazon.com: Castrol 03087 EDGE Extended Performance 5W-30 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil, 5 Quart: Automotive
*Valvoline Max Life Full Synthetic ATF (For transmission and power steering)
Amazon.com: Valvoline 773775-3PK Auto Trans Fluid, 3. gallons, 3 Pack: Automotive
*Red Line 75W90 GL-5 Full Synthetic Gear Oil (For transfer case and both differentials) Amazon.com: Red Line 57905 75W90 GL-5 Gear Oil - 1 Gallon: Automotive
brillo_76
Elite Member
I was thinking of going to valvoline max life full synthetic atf.. How do you like it?
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
mtbtim
Elite Member
It seems fine so far. Nothing really to report differently since I'm running around 1/3 synthetic right now. I'm doing a slow transition since I do drain and refills of my pan every 10k miles instead of waiting around 30k for a full flush. Drain and refills done on a regular basis keep the fluid in good shape and it's simple to do. I made the switch hoping it will improve the life of my transmission.
brillo_76
Elite Member
I exchange the 3 gallons all at once. I was planning on going to valvoline.
it exceeds the dexron standards and I think these transmissions will love it. Well I mostly clean the pan magnets every other full exchange of fluid. I exchange every 100k if heavy towing would do every 50k
I remember you saying you prefer the spill and fill method for changing your fluid.
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
T4R2014
Elite Member
I advise against it. It meets WS spec = way too thin compared to a Dexron III. It might not show it in a good transmission, but an older one with more wear may act up. Generally had good luck with multi-vehicle fluids despite the haters, but this one definitely pushes the limit with compatibility. There's a reason why even generic fluids are distinguishing between regular ATF and LV ATF these days.
mtbtim
Elite Member
Hmmm, I think your opinion is the exception to the rule. The high percentage of people who have used this product have reported great results.
The situation you might be describing is when somebody takes a high mileage transmission that was abused and then decides to perform a full flush. When a auto trans hasn't seen a fluid change in a very long time or maybe never, that dirty fluid is holding suspended clutch material that the transmission is relying upon to operate without slipping. Once that fluid is swapped out for new fluid, the clutch material is gone and the transmission has issues.
Another thing is an abused trans will have sludge build-up inside. New ATF has very good detergent qualities. The new fluid acts on the sludge and can break it loose. That sludge could get lodged in fluid channels in the valve body and cause a partial or complete blockage starving the trans component of fluid.
So, I'm going to disagree with you on this one. The reports on the fluid are contrary to what you're claiming.
mtbtim
Elite Member
I exchange the 3 gallons all at once. I was planning on going to valvoline.
Well I mostly clean the pan magnets every other full exchange of fluid. I exchange every 100k if heavy towing would do every 50k
I remember you saying you prefer the spill and fill method for changing your fluid.
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
I think you're causing yourself a lot of unnecessary work by dropping the pan. When i dropped the pan on my 2000, there was minimal accumulation of metal debris on the magnets. And, the filter was probably 97% unclogged. I'm never dropping my pan again unless i have to to replace a shift solenoid.
I'm also running an in-line magnetic filter to enhance the fluid filtration. As you know, the trans filter is just a fine mesh metal screen. With the additional in-line filter and renewing that filter at a regular interval ( I renew mine every 10k), the trans filter will never get clogged and it will also limit the amount of debris collected on the magnets. Those magnets could effectively collect debris for the life of the trans without being overloaded. It's only when the trans has a catastrophic failure that the magnets could get overloaded with debris, but then it's a non-issue, because the trans has to be replaced anyway.
Here's the In-Line Filters I use in both of my 3rd Gens:
*Magnefine 3/8" Magnetic In-line Transmission Filter
Amazon.com: Magnefine 3/8" Magnetic Inline Transmission/Power Steering Filter: Automotive
snydmax
New member
[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION]... where did you choose to locate the magnefine filter? I like this approach.
T4R2014
Elite Member
I generally take reports here with a grain of salt. It's generally the same crowd that claims X muffler is "just right" but in reality there's a massive drone at 70mph. Generally subjective, and not based on OEM specs. It's essentially saying that WS is also safe to use. People are already scared of using straight up Type-IV. I wouldn't call my transmission abused, 230k and has towing history. It has a good service history and fluid always came out red. The issue came about when I switched to Maxlife. Under 50%+ throttle the 2-3 shift became hard. Switching to Type-IV (essentially a dexron in thickness, with improved additive), got rid of this issue. Also read reports of slipping caused by the fluid viscosity from others (@LittleCaesar ?)
They've changed the formula of Maxlife over the years as well to meet other fluid specs like Dexron 6 and Mercon LV. Viscosity index is 156 for Maxlife vs 183 for OEM Toyota Dexron(the holy grail, OEM factory fill. source: Mobil - OEM fluid maker). The Valvoline fluids have a lower viscosity index in general. BUT - perhaps additive package is more of the issue than viscosity. And perhaps the A340F is tough enough to not care as much. But long term that thicker fluid may come in handy in dealing with higher heat and increased tolerances of an older trans that comes with age and/or older build specs. Plus the issue of planetary gear failures on 01-02 transmissions may warrant the benefits of thicker fluid. So yeah, Maxlife probably works for now but we'll see long term. I had good luck with older Maxlife formulations back in 2008 or so.
My personal recommendations other than OEM are Castrol IMV if you're on a budget or Redline D4 is you want to shell out the cash. My transmission shifts like a damn dream with Redline D4, even in the cold where it is normal to be a little firm.
Last edited:
T4R2014
Elite Member
Probably more related to breather issues, or the existing seal was already going to fail and didn't like the detergents in new fluid.
brillo_76
Elite Member
I could see full synthetics leaking out of seals. As old seals may not handle the thinner oil. On most of the drivetrain not and issue its rust proofing in the salt belt. 
Except, in the rear diff as we have drum brakes that can be soaked in gear grease.
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
Except, in the rear diff as we have drum brakes that can be soaked in gear grease.
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
Similar threads
