Expected mpg drop with the following...

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Lightfall

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Current: 97 3.4l 265/70/16 BFG long trails (35lb) - 22mpg @65mph

Plan: 3" suspension + 1" body lift with 285/70/17 BFG t/a ko e-load (59lb) - the d load set weighs 56lb, and I am getting the eload at a significant discount, I know it is overkill but should work out fine in terms of ride quality.

Making those changes does anyone have experience on how much I should anticipate my mpgs dropping other than the generic advice of "it will"? Wondering if I should be scared and not do the mods for fear of raping my wallet?
 
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Lightfall said:
Current: 97 3.4l 265/70/16 BFG long trails (35lb) - 22mpg @65mph

Plan: 3" suspension + 1" body lift with 285/70/17 BFG t/a ko e-load (59lb) - the d load set weighs 56lb, and I am getting the eload at a significant discount, I know it is overkill but should work out fine in terms of ride quality.

Making those changes does anyone have experience on how much I should anticipate my mpgs dropping other than the generic advice of "it will"? Wondering if I should be scared and not do the mods for fear of raping my wallet?
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I'm running a similar set up on a 96 and get approximately 17mpg. I have 285/75/16 and experience rubbing without the 1" BL FYI.
 
Fantastic news!i was worried it would be like 16 or something...I figured I would do a body lift (and spacers?) to be safe since the archives seem to indicate a mixed response on 285s that I assume has to do with slight variations in rim width and true lift height.

Will city miles be roughly proportional or much different? I am not sure what my in city mpg is yet because I have been doing a lot of idling burning off seafoam from the top end and other maintenance.

Not doing a regear is fine or severe?
 
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Lightfall said:
Fantastic news!i was worried it would be like 16 or something...I figured I would do a body lift (and spacers?) to be safe since the archives seem to indicate a mixed response on 285s that I assume has to do with slight variations in rim width and true lift height.

Will city miles be roughly proportional or much different? I am not sure what my in city mpg is yet because I have been doing a lot of idling burning off seafoam from the top end and other maintenance.

Not doing a regear is fine or severe?
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Depends if it's an auto vs manual I think. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think all manuals got short gears...

4Runit below has 35's with a roof rack and gets 13.7 MPG. Ouch.
 
Well since you are going with E rated tires (and heavy ones at that), Im gonna say expect to see 17-18 tops.

Thats a lot of extra mass and a much larger moment of inertia to make the engine overcome. Plus, SR5s dont have the advantage that sports and limiteds do with better stock gear ratios. Just sayin..
 
What you trying to say about us that get 16... huh... HUH?!?! Are you better than us???

Well, I reckon I can't take offense. Cus I get 14-15

FML
 
I have a 97 manual...I guess I Didn't realize my gears varied when I was doing my research. How exactly do mine vary, technically and functionally?
 
Head is swimming...checked this: http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/tech/toyota-differential-identification-18588.html

Model code door jamb sticker says vzn185l-gkmgka with 225/75/r15 tires!

My a/tm code is a03a / r150f, which I think means I have 3.545 gears according to the link I had. But then your source says 4.1. I am not sure if this is good or bad or what it means because I keep confusing the terms low/high gearing and ratio. I presume this is bad because people usually do aftermarket gears closer to 5... What do you mean by downplaying my final gear ratio?

High/weak gear ratio = low numerically = good fuel economy = lower torque

Low/strong gear ratio = high numerically = bad fuel economy = high torque

Will my truck be dramatically weak and poor mpg or will it still feel decent and get decent gas mileage? Would it make a huge difference to drop to a 275/70/17 if it meant paying $650 more for the tires in that size rather than the 285/70/17 setup? I want to take advantage of the deal from a buddy but if it is going to render my runner impotent I am worried.
 
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I haven't seen anyone complain from the lack of power from 33's, no matter what their gear ratio was.

You'll definitely feel it. If its a really big issue, just go back to smaller tires. I've owned a few 3rd gen's and I've never ever seen over 20 mpg, even with stock setup. I get 17 mpg (85/15 hwy/city) with 33's, auto trans.
 
Ymmv

but i'd say less then 16 given the wheel + tire weight difference and a 3" spacer lift + 1" BL on a 17 yr old suspension with a truck with XXX,XXX miles.
 
Fort Worth TX/Shreveport LA driving for the last 4 years has only netted me a max of 18.5 with stock running gear and auto tranny on 265/70/17's stockers. That's with a clean throttle body and MAF sensor. What gives? '02 Limited 4X4 w/ 150,000 miles
 
Lightfall said:
Head is swimming...checked this: http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/tech/toyota-differential-identification-18588.html

Model code door jamb sticker says vzn185l-gkmgka with 225/75/r15 tires!

My a/tm code is a03a / r150f, which I think means I have 3.545 gears according to the link I had. But then your source says 4.1. I am not sure if this is good or bad or what it means because I keep confusing the terms low/high gearing and ratio. I presume this is bad because people usually do aftermarket gears closer to 5... What do you mean by downplaying my final gear ratio?

High/weak gear ratio = low numerically = good fuel economy = lower torque

Low/strong gear ratio = high numerically = bad fuel economy = high torque

Will my truck be dramatically weak and poor mpg or will it still feel decent and get decent gas mileage? Would it make a huge difference to drop to a 275/70/17 if it meant paying $650 more for the tires in that size rather than the 285/70/17 setup? I want to take advantage of the deal from a buddy but if it is going to render my runner impotent I am worried.
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It does get confusing. HIGH gearing fast speed gearing. Your RPM will be lower at same speeds as a low gear vehicle.

Low gear, is just that. LOW or SLOW speeds. Meaning at 3000RPM etc your vehicle will be going slower.

When in doubt, look at your 4x4 shift lever. 4LOW is REALLY low.

Ideally I think you want the 4.56 or whatever gears are the higher ones. It would aid in acceleration, keep you RPM closer to where it should be at highway speeds, and preventing hunting for gears in both the auto and manual. Ie, it'll shift a lot more because the RPM is lower when it come to a hill, or you want to pass, or accelerate, etc.

Double confirm your gears though and then see what people say on here. I always thought the autos were geared higher, but the guy previous said the SR5's came with "worse" gearing? I have a manual and I'm pretty sure they all came with the 4.56 or whatever the higher gears are. At 60MPH I'm about 2400 RPM in 5th gear.
 
Shibby! said:
Double confirm your gears though and then see what people say on here. I always thought the autos were geared higher, but the guy previous said the SR5's came with "worse" gearing? I have a manual and I'm pretty sure they all came with the 4.56 or whatever the higher gears are. At 60MPH I'm about 2400 RPM in 5th gear.
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I wonder if mine are higher because that is where I sit with my RPMs at about that speed, but then again I could be daydreaming...I have decided to get the tires. They are almost brand new, from a friend, and he is giving them to me for $550 less than buying a new smaller size tire in the same model. I guess if I hate it I can pass along those savings to someone else :shrug: Hopefully my mpg stays reasonable and I look awesome enough offroad to make me enjoy it.
 
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