Factory speakers

[sj4fyr]

I just went through all of this. I bought speakers first and then a head unit. I ran the stock speakers off of the head unit for a few weeks and the sound was 10x better than what it was. I then installed an amp and components front and rear, next up is a sub. If I were going to do it again I would just get a new head unit and install coaxials front and rear. I spent days it seems like getting everything hidden so it looks factory.

Sorry, just to clarify but you bought the speakers and head unit, but installed the head unit and ran off the stock speakers for while?

Also, why would you do coaxials vs components if you were to do it over again (is it easier since you don't have to worry about the crossover?)

 

[Nelsonmd]

I would start with a new headunit to get some modern features. You really get a lot of bang for the buck with head units these days, and the installation is really simple in a 4Runner. A double DIN unit will bolt right in, and a single DIN just needs a basic install kit to fill the hole.

You won't see much improvement from upgrading the factory speakers and leaving the stock head unit in place. I'd do the front speakers after the head unit. The new head unit will have enough power built in to drive the new speakers at decent volume. Next would be a mono amplifier and sub. This is where you really gain a large improvement over stock.

You could always stick with the factory head unit and add a sub, but for me the modern features (Bluetooth, iPod, Sirius) were way more important.

It's a good idea to have a plan when you start shopping for the head unit. If you're planning on eventually adding a sub and amplifier for the factory locations you want a unit that has at least two pre-outs, but ideally one with a built in crossover built in.

This is the order I upgraded in, and at the risk of tooting my own horn, this is the correct order. Upgrading the HU gives you far and away the biggest bang for your buck. Next biggest bang for buck is relatively close between new front speakers and a mono-amp/sub, but you should absolutely do the front speakers first. The sub is a much bigger investment, and you should get your HU and fronts installed and working before adding the sub, because the sub will also take up extra space in your truck, and you may not really want that (It's annoying having mine in the sub box in the back...)

Thanks so much for all the reply's! Now that I'm getting serious about starting to replace things I realize how craptacular my system really is, lol! I really notice a lack of bass, that's for sure, so now I'm thinking about adding an amp and sub first. Decisions, decisions.

Don't add a sub first!!!! HU first! Seriously, a new head unit will cost less than $200 and will make the biggest difference. If you want a sub, then you REALLY need new HU first. Get a HU with a dedicated sub output, and it is easy as pie to add the sub on afterwards, plus you aren't sending a full range signal to a subwoofer that way. A halfway decent sub setup is going to run you at least 2x as much as a new HU, and pumping a crappy signal into an amp and sub is just going to give you amplified crap.

 

[sj4fyr]

Lots of the guys around here, have the powered subs under the passenger seat. I don't know how much you are planning on using the back for hauling. Just throwing that out there as an idea for you.

Thats something to consider, but I have the fan under the passenger seat. Any reason it can't go under the drivers seat?

 

[jeremyc74]

Thanks so much for all the reply's! Now that I'm getting serious about starting to replace things I realize how craptacular my system really is, lol! I really notice a lack of bass, that's for sure, so now I'm thinking about adding an amp and sub first. Decisions, decisions.

Here's what I did (from another thread on the subject)

I just added a 10" sub to mine. I'm running a set of Pioneer coaxials up front with the factory tweeters still connected, and the factory speakers in the rear door.

I put the amp under the driver's seat, so if I need to pull the sub box out for cargo space it's just the speaker wires on quick connect terminals. If you have the rear heat option, forget about using space under the passenger seat. There's a fan under there.

Here's the amp, sub and box that I'm using. It's budget setup, but it really sounds pretty good.

Rockford Fosgate R250X1 Prime 1-Channel Mono Block Amplifier - $101
Amazon.com: Rockford Fosgate R250X1 Prime 1-Channel Mono Block Amplifier: Car Electronics

Scosche SE10R 10-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure - $27
Amazon.com : Scosche SE10R 10-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure : Subwoofer Cabinets : Car Electronics

Infinity Reference 1062w 10-Inch Subwoofer (Dual Voice Coil) $59.95
Amazon.com : Infinity Reference 1062w 10-Inch 1, 100-Watt High-Performance Subwoofer (Dual Voice Coil) : Vehicle Subwoofers : Car Electronics

For under $200 including power wiring and fuse, the truck now bumps pretty good when I want it to. My next step will probably be adding the Alpine amp for the front and passenger speakers, and upgrading those. The sub will make more difference in the sound quality than just the bass, because you take that load off your front amp and speakers and move it to something designed to handle it. :boink:

 

[jstim]

Sorry, just to clarify but you bought the speakers and head unit, but installed the head unit and ran off the stock speakers for while?

Also, why would you do coaxials vs components if you were to do it over again (is it easier since you don't have to worry about the crossover?)

So I put the head unit it, and ran it for through about 4 or 5 songs. A variety, so I could have something to compare it to. So not a full on, drove it for 3 weeks with the stockers in it after the install expert. The Alpine HU I have would have probably just blown the stock speakers. Did the same thing as a repeat, with the replacement speakers. I noticed two things immediately, loudness, and clarity. I thought about having the tweeters separate, but once you get the door off, there isn't a whole lot of places to put things, like your crossover, because then you have to run your wires up to the tweeter, etc. Everything is currently run off stock wiring, for ease of install. IMHO the having it all together with the speaker just will make your life so much easier, and you will still get the quality you are looking for. Mind you, I also did my whole audio on a budget in the $500 range. I have the pictures in my build thread. If I did it again, knowing what I know now, I would do exactly what I did before. I like that I can add the Alpine 50x4 amp to the back of the radio at my leisure, and push them harder at a later date. I have plenty of room for what I feel like is expansion, and I can still throw a powered sub under the passenger seat too. Both of which I will do later, once I get some other mods done. I hope that helps.

http://wwv.crutchfield.com/p_500KTP445A/Alpine-KTP-445A-Power-Pack.html?tp=115

http://wwv.crutchfield.com/p_20611HS8/Kicker-11HS8.html?tp=114

 

[jstim]

Thats something to consider, but I have the fan under the passenger seat. Any reason it can't go under the drivers seat?

You might be able to get it under the drivers seat...it would be a measuring game...ya know?

 

[sj4fyr]

Thanks so much guys, it is all REALLY helpful! Thanks for making a new guy feel welcome! :thumb:

 

[C-RAIG]

Sorry, just to clarify but you bought the speakers and head unit, but installed the head unit and ran off the stock speakers for while?

Also, why would you do coaxials vs components if you were to do it over again (is it easier since you don't have to worry about the crossover?)

When I first started I wanted to put a big stereo in it. So I ordered some mb quarts off of amazon and those sat in my closet for a year. I just recently put a head unit in and it sounded pretty good with the stock speakers. I had the interior out for days while I installed sound deadener, amplifier and the mb quarts. I don't even listen to my stereo loud. I think some coaxials running off of a nice head unit and maybe a small amp would have been perfect. I still have to do the sub install which I am dreading. If I were doing it again I would install 6.5 coaxials front and rear with the speaker harness adapters and be done with it. I tend to go overboard with things.

 

[JayRolla]

Like others have stated if you get some good speakers with a 4 channel amp it will make it sound like you have a 500w 10" sub in the back. A lot of people actually damage there speakers because a lot of head units dont put out enough continuous (RMS) power to support the speaker.

 

[sj4fyr]

So I put the head unit it, and ran it for through about 4 or 5 songs. A variety, so I could have something to compare it to. So not a full on, drove it for 3 weeks with the stockers in it after the install expert. The Alpine HU I have would have probably just blown the stock speakers. Did the same thing as a repeat, with the replacement speakers. I noticed two things immediately, loudness, and clarity. I thought about having the tweeters separate, but once you get the door off, there isn't a whole lot of places to put things, like your crossover, because then you have to run your wires up to the tweeter, etc. Everything is currently run off stock wiring, for ease of install. IMHO the having it all together with the speaker just will make your life so much easier, and you will still get the quality you are looking for. Mind you, I also did my whole audio on a budget in the $500 range. I have the pictures in my build thread. If I did it again, knowing what I know now, I would do exactly what I did before. I like that I can add the Alpine 50x4 amp to the back of the radio at my leisure, and push them harder at a later date. I have plenty of room for what I feel like is expansion, and I can still throw a powered sub under the passenger seat too. Both of which I will do later, once I get some other mods done. I hope that helps.

Alpine KTP-445A Power Pack Compact upgrade amplifier for your Alpine receiver ? 45 watts RMS x 4 at Crutchfield.com

Kicker 11HS8 Hideaway? compact powered subwoofer: 150 watts and an 8" sub at Crutchfield.com

To be honest, this is looking like something I may do, especially being budget conscious. I know I SHOULD re-run all the wiring for the speakers, but just throwing some coaxials in there and being done is awfully tempting. I like the looks of that amp and powered sub too.

 

[sj4fyr]

When I first started I wanted to put a big stereo in it. So I ordered some mb quarts off of amazon and those sat in my closet for a year. I just recently put a head unit in and it sounded pretty good with the stock speakers. I had the interior out for days while I installed sound deadener, amplifier and the mb quarts. I don't even listen to my stereo loud. I think some coaxials running off of a nice head unit and maybe a small amp would have been perfect. I still have to do the sub install which I am dreading. If I were doing it again I would install 6.5 coaxials front and rear with the speaker harness adapters and be done with it. I tend to go overboard with things.

Got it, thx!

 

[jawga4runner]

Lots of the guys around here, have the powered subs under the passenger seat. I don't know how much you are planning on using the back for hauling. Just throwing that out there as an idea for you.

.

I put my amp in the cargo area on the right of the truck behind the removable panel, and the panel is still usable to conceal the amp.

 

[C-RAIG]

I am intrigued by those little power pack amplifiers that fit in the dash. That would have saved me tons of work/money and wiring.

 

[3rzrunner]

Thats something to consider, but I have the fan under the passenger seat. Any reason it can't go under the drivers seat?

this :toilet: LOL

 

[Dragsterpilot]

I am intrigued by those little power pack amplifiers that fit in the dash. That would have saved me tons of work/money and wiring.

I just installed the Alpine 4ch. After you remove the factory amp the alpine unit will fit perfectly down there just behind the ash tray.

 

[wc11]

I am intrigued by those little power pack amplifiers that fit in the dash. That would have saved me tons of work/money and wiring.

Most head units are 16 to 20 watts rms regardless of the published so called "peak power".
The "power packs" like the Alpine KTP-554, plug in line with the head unit and provide a real 45 watts rms and simply plug in line with your head unit with no rewiring.
They work really well and take up very little room. The you could jast add a small sub in back afterward.

 

[C-RAIG]

I just installed the Alpine 4ch. After you remove the factory amp the alpine unit will fit perfectly down there just behind the ash tray.

Most head units are 16 to 20 watts rms regardless of the published so called "peak power".
The "power packs" like the Alpine KTP-554, plug in line with the head unit and provide a real 45 watts rms and simply plug in line with your head unit with no rewiring.
They work really well and take up very little room. The you could jast add a small sub in back afterward.

I didn't see them until after I bought my stuff. I have a pretty small 5ch soundstream under the seat. It will be perfect once I add a sub. I am amazed at how cheap everything is now. I think I am into mine for about $600 right now. I can launch the shuttle from my head unit.