Drakethefirst
Junior Member
I have done many head units, speakers, subs, and amp combo and projects. However the 4runner JBL premium system made me learn a new way of wiring. I am new to this so please any experts chime in and correct me if I am wrong and give some advise.
So I have been researching this system for far too long, I have put off upgrading the head unit because of the cost of all the damn harnesses you need to keep your steering wheel controls and your amp and sub. Then I started looking into why? The systems that I have worked on before were the standard head unit-gives power to the speakers. If you want an amp and sub then you add them and wire them to the head unit-done.
However this system is different where the amp is now the main attraction. The head unit gives a signal to the amp which then gives power to the speakers and sub.
So with that knowledge and searching on crutchfield for the best system I found the harnesses. One of those is the Metra 70-8117 amp bypass, which I initially thought plugged into the factory amp harness and then into your new amp...nope. It is a harness that plugs into your factory amp harness to then run those lines all the way up to the head unit so it can be used as a standard system I just listed above. But that wasn't the worst part...by using this method you are now bypassing both your rear pillar speakers and your center dash speaker because those are wired or powered separately from the door speakers. This made me question, why is this the only option? Why can I not just make my own harness from the factory amp harness that already has the outputs for the door speakers and tweeters?
I want to know if anyone has gone through and did this the hard way instead of using all these harnesses? Has anyone spliced into the factory amp harness and kept all their speakers while using an aftermarket amp, woofer, and head unit?
My ultimate goal is to replace all the factory speakers with 4ohm speakers from the 2ohm, replace the factory head unit with an aftermarket touch screen with backup cam and carplay, upgrade the woofer to something better and keep the 2ohm, and replace the amp with a 5 channel that can handle all the above. But is it possible/am I missing something?
So I have been researching this system for far too long, I have put off upgrading the head unit because of the cost of all the damn harnesses you need to keep your steering wheel controls and your amp and sub. Then I started looking into why? The systems that I have worked on before were the standard head unit-gives power to the speakers. If you want an amp and sub then you add them and wire them to the head unit-done.
However this system is different where the amp is now the main attraction. The head unit gives a signal to the amp which then gives power to the speakers and sub.
So with that knowledge and searching on crutchfield for the best system I found the harnesses. One of those is the Metra 70-8117 amp bypass, which I initially thought plugged into the factory amp harness and then into your new amp...nope. It is a harness that plugs into your factory amp harness to then run those lines all the way up to the head unit so it can be used as a standard system I just listed above. But that wasn't the worst part...by using this method you are now bypassing both your rear pillar speakers and your center dash speaker because those are wired or powered separately from the door speakers. This made me question, why is this the only option? Why can I not just make my own harness from the factory amp harness that already has the outputs for the door speakers and tweeters?
I want to know if anyone has gone through and did this the hard way instead of using all these harnesses? Has anyone spliced into the factory amp harness and kept all their speakers while using an aftermarket amp, woofer, and head unit?
My ultimate goal is to replace all the factory speakers with 4ohm speakers from the 2ohm, replace the factory head unit with an aftermarket touch screen with backup cam and carplay, upgrade the woofer to something better and keep the 2ohm, and replace the amp with a 5 channel that can handle all the above. But is it possible/am I missing something?