First time: replacing rear calipers, rotors, and pads...advice?

[dammit_collins]

Hey all, I've been a member for a while, owned a few runners, and have done more than a few basic repairs. I've done brake pad swaps several times, so I feel pretty good about that. That said, I've never done caliper replacements...

I drive an 03 T4R Sport V8, an I started hearing a screeching/rhythmic scrape out of the rear passenger side; I've never seen something like this before, but the rear pass side inside brake pad had fully ejected itself, and the caliper piston was pressed against the rotor. All other pads on the vehicle were intact and in good condition, but if I'm going to do work on the calipers, I'm thinking replace them in pairs.

That said, I read more than a few posts about people doing rear brakes and finding the parking brake being destroyed once they got in. Honestly, I never use it, as I drive an automatic (I know, I know), but I'm still concerned about getting into this and finding my hands way more full than originally intended. I've got the tools to take out the pads/rotors and the caliper, but beyond that, I have zero idea what I'm getting into. Suggestions on where to find info on this? I've used the search in here for a few days before finally giving up and asking. Thanks in advance for any help any of you can give in pointing me in the right direction. Will post pics I took of the rotor area soon, to show why I'm worried about the parking brake.

Ok, thos are a couple that I took before ordering parts - obviously all very concerning as far as safety goes, so I'm replacing the rotors, pads, and calipers. What worries me more is the thing I don't recognize - the tiny piece of metal hanging below the piston in those photos. It's not loose, couldn't just be pulled out, and I'm not sure if it's part of the parking brake, or just a remnant of the brake pad that came out. Any thoughts on that are appreciated.

 

[UrbanRunner651]

you can do it

Calipers are a cake walk. Do one side at a time so you can reference the other if you get stuck.
pull the wheel, use a locking pliers to pinch the brake line and disconnect it, compress the piston with a screwdriver, loosen the two bolts holding the caliper and it comes right off.

The pads rest in the caliper and there is usually metal tabs to keep them positioned/tensioned. That is likely what you are seeing and it is just wedged in there somehow. make sure you lube the back side the piston contacts on the new pads.

The parking brake is usually inside the hub of the rear rotors. you cannot see it from the outside. It is a combination of springs that expand out the two pads which are curved to match the rotor diameter. They are a bit tedious to do but still fairly easy.
Take a picture of the setup before you take it apart and wear safety glasses.

There should be plenty of writeups on here and full videos on youtube.
"4runner full brake replacement" should give you a number of results.

YouTube

 

[dammit_collins]

Thanks UR, I'll keep all of this in mind! I'll come back later with results.

 

[Jeckolame]

Calipers are a cake walk. Do one side at a time so you can reference the other if you get stuck.
pull the wheel, use a locking pliers to pinch the brake line and disconnect it, compress the piston with a screwdriver, loosen the two bolts holding the caliper and it comes right off.

The pads rest in the caliper and there is usually metal tabs to keep them positioned/tensioned. That is likely what you are seeing and it is just wedged in there somehow. make sure you lube the back side the piston contacts on the new pads.

The parking brake is usually inside the hub of the rear rotors. you cannot see it from the outside. It is a combination of springs that expand out the two pads which are curved to match the rotor diameter. They are a bit tedious to do but still fairly easy.
Take a picture of the setup before you take it apart and wear safety glasses.

There should be plenty of writeups on here and full videos on youtube.
"4runner full brake replacement" should give you a number of results.

YouTube

+1

 

[jcaino]

Do yourself a favor and get a vacuum pump to bleed the lines. Also good to pull as much old fluid out as possible, making sure to keep the master topped off as you go - you don't want to pull any air through the master.

When I did the front calipers, and just did the rear pads/rotors, the parking brake setup was fine, just needed to de-adjust to pull the rotor off.

Other than that, it really isn't a bad job.

 

[nevada]

What worries me more is the thing I don't recognize - the tiny piece of metal hanging below the piston in those photos. It's not loose, couldn't just be pulled out, and I'm not sure if it's part of the parking brake, or just a remnant of the brake pad that came out. Any thoughts on that are appreciated.

hard to tell from that pic, but I suspect that is whats left of the old pad.
the park brake is INSIDE the rotor hat. you cant see any of that until you remove the rotor.

 

[BackOff]

Kinda looks like the piston is on the rotor...no actual brake pad?
And the piston seal is torn.

 

[Caldizzle]

I'd recommend having a screw that threads into the rear rotor to help get it off. There is a little threaded hole on the rotor that is a lifesaver to pry the rotor off the hub and parking brake if it is being a nuisance.

 

[gaber6]

parking brake holder pins are a B#!$@. You have to compress the spring and hold it all together with a wire of some sort. There's a tutorial somewhere on here if you search. Once you get one on, the rest are slightly less difficult.

 

[jcaino]

I'd recommend having a screw that threads into the rear rotor to help get it off. There is a little threaded hole on the rotor that is a lifesaver to pry the rotor off the hub and parking brake if it is being a nuisance.

Not a screw, a bolt. m8-1.25

 

[randy88fj62]

Download the factory service manual, print the pages for the work you are doing on the front and rear brakes. Record the torque specs for the bolts you will be reattaching. Use a torque wrench if you have one.

If you plan on owning the vehicle a long time and have some extra funds I'd recommend stainless steel braided brake lines. The age of your truck and the condition of the OEM rubber lines means it's time to replace.

It's usually a pain to swap brake lines when just doing pads and rotors but since you already are diving in and pulling the calipers you might as well add lines to that job.

Stainless steel lines custom made near me are cheaper than OEM lines. (I use ORME Brothers in San Fernando Valley, CA).

 

[Mike07SE]

If working on the parking brakes this tool is a lifesaver and keeps your sanity in check when getting the retaining clip in place on the springs.

• As far as other advice I think the others have pretty much covered the bases. Leave your cap on the MC tight to minimize fluid loss.
• The M8 Bolts help A LOT to get the rotor off and minimizes hammering it off.
• A hanger or strap to hold the caliper helps a lot.
• When bleeding the brakes, the MC can actively pump the rear lines making the job quick and easy. You'll find that once the bleeder is cracked open you can press the pedal down for several seconds to let it pump out fluid. Just make sure the bleeder is closed before you let go of the brake pedal. After you do an initial purge of the replaced caliper you follow the bleeding sequence of RR,RL,FR,FL pattern.

 

[radlynx]

Its really easy. There's nothing to worry about. Swap all the parts then bleed it. Please note that bleeding it requires you turn on the ignition. Then have someone press the brake while you bleed. Also make sure to fill up above the fill line. There's no need for pressure bleeder.

 

[AuSeeker]

Its really easy. There's nothing to worry about. Swap all the parts then bleed it. Please note that bleeding it requires you turn on the ignition. Then have someone press the brake while you bleed. Also make sure to fill up above the fill line. There's no need for pressure bleeder.

Just a little more clarification for the OP, when bleeding the rear brakes as mentioned turn on the ignition and press the brake pedal down, there's no need to "pump' the brake pedal just keep it pressed down and keep it there until you bled all the air out, the electric pump on the master cylinder will provide the pressure.

The front brakes if you bleed them will have to be done in the normal fashion of pumping up the brake pedal open the bleeder and then close it, and then repeat until all air is out of the lines, no need to turn on the ignition for the fronts.

And as mentioned NEVER let the master cylinder get too low on fluid, stop often to refill!!

Also someone mentioned to remove the rear rotor you will need to back off the parking brake shoes so there's good clearance on the inside of the "hat" A.K.A. drum so the shoes with not fight you getting the rotors off, to do this there a small slot on the rotor, turn the rotor until the slot is at the bottom, using a flat screwdriver or even better a drum brake adjusting tool/spoon and inside there is a "star" wheel by prying up or down on the teeth of the star wheel you will either tighten or loosen the parking brake shoes, if you turn the star wheel and the rotor gets to a point it is getting hard to turn you have tighten the shoes and need to adjust in the other direction, once you think the shoes are backed off enough then try and remove the rotor, if the rotor start coming off but seems to be catching on something and seem to be pulling back in from spring pressure you most likely don't have the shoes backed off enough and you can damage the mounting hardware holding the shoes on the backing plate and you will have to replace some of the mounting hardware.

 

[nevada]

if you're only replacing the rear calipers, there is no reason to bleed the front.
the air will only be in the rear calipers..